XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Another question is porting. I have read that Pineapple's exhaust ports are really big on their large SP engines. Is it possible the T3 is just choking? It seems unlikely, given the such low numbers, but I thought I would ask.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

^ I dont think so, if that was the case then you would have diminishing numbers.


I think your problem is a major boost leak or an obstruction in your charge piping.

The reason for this is because you mentioned high intake temps after just one run, that means that the turbo is working extra hard to make the boost (high compressor outlet temps), which IMO can only be explained by an obstruction or a major leak.

I think if the AI was not working properly then your motor would be toast due to the high intake temps and the high boost pressure.


What size wastegate and spring are you running? What was the boost solenoid duty cycle?

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iTrader: (6)

I watched your video on the turbo, it "looked fine from the video"

Like renesisfd said, maybe your turbo is over spooling and working too hard due to a leak.

You can find a plastic or rubber cap and cover your turbo inlet, use tape or whatever and make a hole and put a tire valve stem in the cover. Pump it up and see if the system leaks on the charge side. I know it sound hoekie, but it works good.

Where are you taking the boost reading from for your guage. Before or after the core, the core is very dense as its a garrett bar and plate core. You will have a small drop after the core. That would mean the turbo is really spinning at a little higher psi.

stuck wastegate, that will really make that turbo work harder. If it cracks open at 10psi and your shooting for 19psi or so, its gonna have to spin like a spinner on the pole working for college.

I think the turbo is being overspun as well. I also think your turbo looks fine if all I have to look at is your video.

Ben

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I'm feeling pretty retarded right now.

I looked at my core and piping and everything is clear and clean. So after reading Ben's post, I decided to pull the waste-gate and look it over. BINGO!! After disassembling the waste-gate it was apparent that it easily stuck open. Carbon was badly built up around the upper part of the shaft making it stick in the open position. The shaft slid but it wasn't smooth at all. I cleaned it with carb cleaner and scrubbed it down. It glides like butter now! I also noticed a large gash in my diaphragm on the sealing side.

Tomorrow I will be calling Tial to get a new diaphragm, and swap my 12lb spring for a 15lb spring. I am pretty convinced that this was my problem the whole time. There is no telling how long it's been like this. It may have been working extra hard for the 15lbs when I originally installed it. I feel pretty stupid for not checking its operation and diaphragm condition during the new engine swap. I guess I overlooked it due to no apparent issues and only having a few days to get everything swapped over. Live and learn I guess.

As far as my turbo, I am still on the fence. Turblown mentioned, like my advice here, that there is nothing majorly wrong, but a new CHRA will be in the cards. I'm not sure if my overspooling damaged it or it will live on for awhile. I have yet to decide. Either way, his price on a replacement was unbeatable.

I am calling Tial tomorrow

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iTrader: (6)

Well renesis is really the one to give credit for mentioning the wastegate first, I read his post, thought about your problems and it made more sense that the waste gate was an issue.

I would buy the CHRA and keep it handy AFTER I tried another dyno with the waste gate fixed.

Your turbo look good from the video. I dont think its scared, well not enough to affect performance.

Good Luck!

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

LOL... Yeah, I forgot who mentioned it first, but I am really glad that you guys did. Totally makes sense. I do plan to reassemble as is with the new Tial parts and press for next Saturday.

It's funny, because I don't think it was sticking when I drove the car Friday. It felt strong as hell, and my intake temps were much lower than before.

I hope this takes care of it.

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iTrader: (6)

cool, so your gonna leave the turbo as is and see how she does.
Cant wait.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Yes Sir. Tial parts ordered. I went with a 17.5lb spring combo. I want no issues if I wanna push 25psi .

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iTrader: (6)

Thats why I like Tial, great customer support and they have many options on the springs.

Happy Meal

iTrader: (21)

A little off topic but the boost controller looks like something that could be pieced together at Lowes or Home Depot? I can't see what is worth $50 on the guys website...I watched the video and all but it just looks cheap. Any insight on this? Thanks!

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iTrader: (6)

Your paying for someone time and effort to make somthing affordable and reliable to all turbo and s/c guys.

Itimize the parts used.
cheap quality parts will be cheaper, a better brand will be more expensive.
Those nipples maybe 4 to 5 bucks each.
the 3 way female brass fitting, probably 6 or 7 bucks depending on how its casted/cut on the inside..i.e. smoothe, curved, jagged, squared.
3 allen screws = 1.50 unless you buy bulk.
aluminum bracket = he has to drill, bend, cut... 3 feet cost 10bucks and lowes, lets give him 50 cents tops for the little aluminum part.
custome nylon or plastic fitting that the adjustable allen screw is in, maybe 2 to 4 bucks.

You have maybe 20 to 25 dollars in parts...

But...

You have a pre-assembled kick ***, legit boost controller.

You are paying for his time and engineering in a simple product that saves you **** loads of money compared to other boost controllers.

I would gladly pay him 20 to 25 to assembly it correctly for me. He designed it, he knows all the little ins and outs.

That is what we as customers pay for, for the work that is already done for us.

Was that a good accurate answer?

Ben

p.s.

it may look cheap, but it will probably survive any engine bay fire and will never experience electronic failure...lol
and, its way easier to repair then anything else out there, like you said, you can get your replacement parts at most hardware stores..... hahahaha

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

It's cheap and effective. JK Tuning is pretty respected in the Honda world. It's all brass construnction and has performed very well. A quality MBC works fine for me.

DriftDreamzSS

iTrader: (4)

What wastegate do you have? If its the V44 do you think the damage to the diaphragm was heat related? Ive been considering switching to the newer mvr if the water cooling will provide more reliability.

Knockers

Aye man, You got 60 psi on all faces during the compression check right?? Isn't that about dead?? 90-100 is more where you wana be, even with the valve out.

When you dyno'd, did it make 19 psi the whole way?? How are warm starts and idle??

Nice build btw...

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Yep, even 60psi on every bounce of both rotors. I suppose it depends on the compression tester. If some push valves vented more then others, it would leak more during a cycle. Just guessing of course. I also remembered that I didn't do the test right after driving. The car sit for about 3-4 hours and cooled down quite a bit. From my readings, this can make a big difference in pressure.

Hot & cold starts are excellent. No issues at all. Idles smooth and pulls around 15inches of vacuum.

According to Kevin Landers, it's good...
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

8) observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35psi range.

9)let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.

Hot & cold starts are excellent. No issues at all. Idles smooth and pulls around 15inches of vacuum.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

It is a V44. Honestly, I don't know. The creased tear was right at the sealing portion of the cap around the rib. It just looks like its from use. I too like the MVR's.

Parts arrive today. Hoping to assemble and take it out this evening. I will be running my 17.4lb spring, so I will just open the MBC for now.

chiefboon

Have you considered their two-stage MBC? I don't see it on their site but see it discussed on the net. If still available, I would love to replace my EBC with this unit in the future.

Knockers

If it start/ idles strong your fine.

Did you remove the valve core out of the line?? I notice Rotary Res. instructions don't mention it. When removed,you get unrestricted flow to the gauge and gives the real value of each rotor face. When the core is in the line your per face numbers are lower. Do you follow that? I compression check with no valve core so your numbers sounded low.

Good luck with it.

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Parts arrived today. I assembled and bench tested the wastegate with my compressor. Took it for a test run and couldn't be happier with the results.

I backed out my boost controller 2 full turns. I figured I would let it hit wastegate pressure (17psi) first and see how it responded. Once I tried a 3rd gear pull it instantly shot to 20psi. I let off in terror. However, this confirms even more that the wastegate was sticking. I pulled over and backed it out a bit more. It settled in at 17-18psi.

Boost response is much faster. Intake temps never saw above 38C. In fact, after letting off they went to 32 almost every time. Everything feels stronger, and the car is noticeably quicker.

Thanks for all the help guys!! Rotor fest is this weekend and I am happy to have my car rocking. Next Saturday's tune session should yield much better results!

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

You are going to rotor fest?

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Yes Sir. My buddy is driving up from WV with his FD tomorrow. I'll probably enter my car in the show. Not running, just walk around and check out all the sick rotaries. Hope to see ya there.

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iTrader: (6)

awsome,

can't wait, take her easy until the tune bro!

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

I plan to back out the MBC a few more turns and let it run wastegate. With the 50/50, it's fine for 17psi. AFR's are rich and timing is on point.

"LET IT RAIN"

XLR8

iTrader: (52)

Tuning scheduled for the 1st. Car is running strong with ICE cold intake temps. Saw continual mid 30's temps with an occasional 28C.

I actually had a nice surprise while driving the other day. 100 ft from my driveway I press the clutch to shift and hear a loud pop as the pedal goes to the floor. In classic FD style I figured my clutch arm snapped and I would be pulling the tranny this weekend with parts overnighted from Ray. Well, turns out my Advance Auto slave cylinder's piston end does not quite fit in its place. It slipped out and popped like Vanilla Ice. No parts injured. Just a simple swap to an OEM part.

Paint coming soon, and 25psi on the horizon.

I also want to thank Ben from Rotary Extreme. He recently sent me the ducting patterns for my vmount. Another great example of a vendor taking care of customers over 2 years after purchase. Lovin it bro.

Rotary Extreme Sales 1

iTrader: (6)

No worries, check your email, a bunch of reference pics were sent.

You should put your car in a magazine, seriously!