I have been and will continue to use this simple manual boost controller. It works awesome, easy to adjust, and keeps boost solid.

JS Single Stage J-K Tuning

 

Mazdaspeed hood came today. Fitment is fantastic, quality is on point. I don't like posting pics that are mediocre quality, but I couldn't resist snapping a few with my phone. The hood will be painted of course. Hi Res pics in a few weeks.

Heading to Disney World for a week, then the FD it gets tuned the day after my return!
Next update should be a dyno chart.

 

Hood looks great. I really think I will be getting one someday. Low key but functional.

 

You should consider leaving the area behind the vents unpainted, would look awesome and you would not have to worry about repairing chips on the edges. Just repaint over any damage. That hood has always been my favorite. Nice choice!

 

Thanks guys. Yes, this hood is my favorite as well. I really wanted something to match the stock lines, not be too aggressive, and still be functional. Overall, I am extremely pleased. I had the same idea in mind with my bumper choice. I didn't want to mess with the stock lines too much, or be too flashy. Just clean.

Not sure if I posted a pic of my authentic Feed type I bumper, so here she is. Coupled with my hood and Ganador mirrors, I think it will turn out nicely.

 

Awesome Build man good job!!

 

Keep up the good work man, I love checking back in to this thread after a couple weeks to see the progress you make. Seeing this thread makes me anxious to finish my deployment to start my RE A build when I get back. Can't wait to see more progress!

 

All I see is a single stage unit, is that what you have?

Where did you get the hood?

Great progress as always

 

Nice vid! Them Honda's sure makes some hp above 16psi. Almost begins to float.....

 

Yes.... The single stage in the link.

Ronnin Speed Works

http://www.roninspeedworks.com/

 

Well guys..... the numbers are in and they are pretty disappointing.

401whp/ 326 ftlbs at 19psi. Yes.... that is right.

After looking at all the variables, we had a few issues. First, my intake temps were climbing a bit higher than they should. After only 1 pull, they would jump to 55C. Definitely not what should be happening spraying 500cc of 50/50. We suspected the WI system wasn't spraying as it should, but we were seeing the mixture shoot out the BOV during release. It didn't make sense. The cool side pipe should have been nice and cold, but they were still too hot to touch after only one pull.....

Dave & Brian are really sharp. We talked a bit about why the numbers are low. So it came down to three things... Engine compression, turbo issue, water injection.

So I did some poking around today.

1. Compression - Tested it today with a piston engine tester. Both rotors were identical. With release pin held I saw 60psi on all bounces. Pin not held, it built to 100psi. So the engine is healthy. Not amazing, but it is healthy. At this point, I will likely press forward with it.

2. Water Injection - I pulled the filter today and fully tested the system with my air compressor. A beautiful mist with no weirdness. Tested 8-20psi with no problems.

3. Turbo - Well boys... its toast. Compressor blades show no wear from the water injection. It spins freely, but the shaft play is sloppier than a **** star who just broke the gangbang record. I can almost get the wheel to touch the housing when moving it with my fingers. In fact, I noticed tiny metal shavings on the inside of the housing with a very slight scratch ring consistent with the wheel placement. Looks like it's a new CHRA for me.

I have another tuning session on the 25th. If I get my new CHRA in, I should see better numbers.

As it sits, I won't drive the car until it's replaced.

 

Damn... How old and what type of turbo were you running again?

 

I did drive the car today before all of my testing. I flogged it around at 19psi and it felt strong. Another sign the engine is solid. But while driving I had a stutter at 5k during a 3rd gear pull. It got my attention so I started watching my gauges closely as I got back into it slowly. I immediately noticed my intake temps were around 35C and the AFR's seemed richer at around 10-10.4. In fact, temps NEVER climbed over 38C. Even after consecutive 3rd to 4th gear WOT runs, it stayed rock solid. This is definitely a far cry from what we were seeing on the dyno at 50-55C. There may be a slight air flow factor, but not that much. I don't have ducting on my Vmount yet either. Not to mention that the temps would climb on the dyno on the very first pull...

So my theory.... When I installed my nozzle I used a few drops of red Loctite on the nozzle ring. This ring holds the atomizer nozzle to the body. I used it to also mount the nozzle. With a rubber O-ring it keeps the nozzle tight on the filter body, and keeps me from having to weld studs on the body to mount it to the filter (Brent's method). So it's possible some Loctite seeped into the nozzle causing a blockage. I used washer fluid before I swapped engines so the system never saw the meth until yesterday. With this, it's possible that blockage was deteriorated by the methanol and broke through.

It would explain my instantly cold intake temps, and richer AFR's. With a new CHRA and some more time on the dyno, we should know immediately.

 

GT35R T3 1.06 A/R. Turbo was supposedly good with low mileage. Not known, but low. The whole kit is one of A-Spec's older kits. Sean confirmed through email. So honestly, there is no telling.

All I know is, there is a bit more shaft play then there should be, small metal shavings in the housing, and I am down on power. Engine is good, and the tune is solid. It seems it could have been a combination of a dragging turbo and high intake temps.

I will admit, the car pulled great today, but there is no denying that shaft play. Brian told me there should be zero to very little play.

 

bummer.. well while your at it... maybe upgrade with a new gtx chra? opposed to the older gt35r?... good time as ever to make the switch nah?

 

I considered it, but since its a T3, I dont know what my hotside limit is. They say the GTX flows a bit more. I will research it.

 

Ahh that sucks man. Hopefully you can get it figured out. Dave and Brian are great guys, thats who will be tuning my car for sure.

 

Definitely. Once I get this thing sorted, I will be going back to them. Brian and I talked quite a bit. Dude knows his stuff. It's nice to have someone explain things as we go.

As it sits, I'm looking at 3 options.

1. Replace my CHRA with a 35R
2. Replace my CHRA with a GTX35R
3. Buy one of Turblown's TD61 or TDX61's and weld a T4 flange on my manifold.

Obviously, 1 & 2 are easiest. I can do it all myself and likely head back next weekend as scheduled. 3 is definitely the more desirable and definitely more power yielding. Welding the T4 flange on my manifold while still using the rest of my kit will require more skill than I posses. That means dropping my car off at Daves, and letting them fab it up.

#2 seems like it would be an upgrade, but I don't know how the small turbine and T3 will do with an upgraded compressor. I have yet to see a lot of results from the GTX setups on a T3.

I'm really torn... I PM'd Turblown for some insight. We shall see.

 

Elliot is a good dude.. never steered me wrong information wise.

 

I'd go with the T4, that way you can get a hotside that better suits a rotary. You can still get something that is very responsive, and if in the future you want more, it's very easy to pop a larger turbo on.

Should be minimal work. You don't even have to remove the T3 flange. Just take your manifold off, put it in a vice and clamp a T4 flange on top of it. Use it as a template to grind out your T3 flange to match the insides of it to your T4. Then take the manifold to a shop and have the T4 flange welded onto the T3 that's already on the manifold. The inside ports (the part that matters, will now match your T4, and you can then bolt a T4 turbo on. The only thing that you'll need to adjust after that is your downpipe, as your turbo will now sit about a half inch higher, and possibly have a different flange on the back of it. You can then have the shop just modify your downpipe a bit and voila, you are all set.

 

This what I am working with.

 

When you shut the car off how long does it take for the turbo to stop spinning?

 

I tested it a few times. Arounds 5-7 seconds. The spinning motions seems normal. The shaft play, tiny mtal shavings and slight markings on the housing do not.

 

This is a ball bearing turbo correct?

My turbo spins for probably more than 30 seconds after shutdown.


Hope you figure out the problem. Have you checked to make sure there is nothing stuck in the intercooler or piping like a rag or something.

 

I spoke with a rep from Blouch Turbo this morning. I considered the CHRA exchange program and wanted to get more info. He said that BB turbo's will have a bit of play when not pressurized by oil. As long as it isnt hitting the housing wall with my finger's pressure, its fine. He also explained the slight ring marking in the housing is normal. Very small dust particles get blasted against the housing during operation and over time, creates that slight ring.

So now, I feel pretty confused. I will double check my core for blockage. I am also going to test the turbo spin down again with a stop watch. As you can see from the video, it does spin really free and easily.

My hopes are my water injection theory is correct. I plan to double check everything again, reassemble and drive the car some more. If intake temps continue to be as cold as they were Sat, its back to the dyno.