It is a 35" belt. I used this Dayco..
Dayco/Belt (5050350) | AutoZone.com

The idler is a factory piece. The bearing was pressed out, the metal was chromed, and the bearing was pressed back in. Little bit of a process but great results. I likely wouldn't have went through it all but CrispyRx7 had it for sale so I snatched it up.

My plan, many moons ago, was to use a ribbed idler pulley. I searched around the club for this very solution. What I found was that not many people delete PS, but keep the A/C. I did get advice from one member to simply run the stock pulley with the ribs facing down. He had been doing so for a few years with no issues. I figured I would give it a try and sure enough, ZERO issues. I've had A/C since I went single 3 years ago and it hasn't skipped, or shifted once. Still using the same belt with no adverse wear.

 

My Turblown goodies arrived today and I am very pleased! My project just got the shot it needed.

Turblown Twin Scroll Manifold
Dual TurboSmart Comp 40 wastegates (14psi springs)
4" downpipe w/ wastegates routed
Ceramic coating
Dual EGT bungs

 

love it, cant wait to get mine. build is top notch.

 

It really is! This setup will support all I should ever want from my FD. I'm happy that I went this route. Should never need another one.

 

I couldn't resist.

 

Looks awesome in there! Cant deiced if I should reroute the gates or open dump on them, any advice? Also are you vmount and ac, one thing I'm thinking about as well. Keep up with the updates, how close are you to getting it completed.

 

Thanks. I'm not a fan of screamer pipes. Yes, they are cheaper and WAY easier to install when it's going together, but I just don't like open exhaust sound. Some love the sound, and some don't. It's really down to personal opinion.

Yes, one of the reasons I chose Rotary Extreme's Vmount is because it retains the A/C. Again, a little extra work and money, but in the end, my FD is for the street. Being in the military I knew that I would move every few years. I came from Texas to NJ, but then headed to Mississippi for a 4 year stent. Vmounts have the versatility of handling the extreme temps, and I will be nice and cozy on those 100+ days.

My tune is scheduled for August 2nd at SpeedOne. I'll either make it or bust by a few weeks. Either way, IT WILL be driven this summer. My real goal is to have it rocking for this years Chris Carlisi BBQ.

Thanks buddy! It was coated by Elliot so I'm not sure what type of ceramic they use. It turned out SICK nonetheless. Than in 2-3 months I should be heading to PA to see your beast in person!! How does dinner and a cruise sound?.

 

Turbo is mounted up, and my silicone heater hose is rerouted. One thing about Turblown's manifolds is that you can not retain the OEM heater core hardline because of positioning. No bother, I purchased a 4ft section of silicone line from HPS. It is quality and will withstand the heat. Good thing, because I am "shoe-horning" that 4" DP with routed wastegates in there.

Mounting everything up proved to be a beast. Even with the flex pieces on the tubes, everything needs to be lined up perfect. I originally thought I had an issue as the downpipe end flange kept hitting the transmisison. Come to find it was just clocked a little off. I re-adjusted but a little too far. Clears the tranny fine, but now the flanges don't line up. Need to bring it back about a 1/4" the other way. Plan to tackle it first thing in the morning.

 

Nice, I trying to figure out if I should keep the ac on the fd since not a dd and wanna track the car a few good times a year. Thanks on the info about the heater hard line, now I know I'll have to replace that. Link in the hose you got?

 

Mine isn't a DD either. It stays in the garage until I want to take it out and enjoy. But on a hot day, I like that ice cold A/C . Something about having an extremely capable street car while still retaining a few things that keep it civil.

Below is the exact hose I purchased, by 4ft. I wanted a little extra incase I ran into issues. I installed it today and it fits both the heater pipe, and the neck fittings perfectly. I even used the factory clamps. It's quite flexible and seems like it could be used for the other two hard pipe ends that run across the firewall. I purchased new rubber from Mazda so they are still in new condition.

HPS 5/8" inch 16mm 1-Ply Reinforced Silicone Heater Hose Black x 1 Foot Coolant Silicon Hoses

I used some hose clasps and self tapping screws to keep it tucked to the frame rail. Overall, a clean install.

 

"My tune is scheduled for August 2nd at SpeedOne. I'll either make it or bust by a few weeks. Either way, IT WILL be driven this summer. My real goal is to have it rocking for this years Chris Carlisi BBQ."

Im working on it

When is the BBQ.

 

Does your brake line go behind the firewall? If so that is pretty nifty.


I can't wait to see this at the Carlisi BBQ. Keep up the good work


Reading about you keeping your AC makes me want to reinstall mine. In those summer days that are 90 plus out the AC really makes a huge difference with the comfort of the car. Especially since it works so well.

 

Thanks man! Yes, my brake lines run through the "wiper motor compartment". I just used -3 bulkhead fittings to route it it through. It's VERY close as the internal motor arms pass through. I have tested it at all speeds and no contact to the fittings. It turned out pretty clean I think.

I am working consistently to get it going. It should be ready.

On the A/C... Man, it's so worth it!! I will NEVER remove the A/C from another Rx7. I know you track a good bit, but you enjoy street driving as well. Like you said, the 90+ days, you are driving, or taking your girl out to dinner, you don't exit the car covered in sweat. It's a creature comfort that I will ALWAYS keep.

 

I ran into a snag with the manifold and downpipe. For the life of me, I can't get it to line up without the end of the downpipe hitting the tranny. I played with it for the past 2 days, loosened everything, adjusted, and still no luck. I spoke with Elliot, and we were both stumped, as he fitted it to his shop car twice! It's headed back today for modification. He is also extending it a bit to get me closer to meeting the Greddy Race exhaust.

This will change the time table a little, but we shall see how it goes. Everything takes longer than expected.

 

did you try loosening the motor mounts first...moving the whole trans over..installing the dp..then motor mounts back? you know every motor sits just a bit different depending on how you installed it.. (motor and trans together? trans installed...then motor installed.. and how you tightened them down with the PPF) also...make sure your PPF is in good shape.. or straight.. no slight pressure bends or stress marks..

 

XLR8, are you not concerned with the angle of that front wastegate recirc?

i see elliot is now belt sanding the wastegate vband rings before they go out... that is good.

edit: also, you may need to have elliot put a vband on both sides of those recirc tubes if you want to be able to easily get the downpipe in and out without taking off the turbo/manifold.

 

The front waste-gate reroute angle has to be that way from a fitment stand point. I would prefer it to be like the rear, but there is only so much space with the chassis and the 4" exhaust, etc. If the downpipe was 3" it might cause a problem in terms of a slight power drop( around 3% power loss).

I also think I might have figured out why your wastegates have a slight leak Jacob, its not the flange not being flat... There is a tiny difference in the flanges between Tial & TurboSmart( even though they are stated as interchangeable...) Obviously I have a manifold being made with Tial MVS flanges for you regardless...

 

I thought of this too, but the engine mounted in the chassis would make zero difference here. The tranny, engine, and manifold are all directly bolted together. In turn, the DP coming down and being too close to the tranny would play no part on how the assembly sits in the chassis. They could be dangling from a cherry picker and it would still hit.

As a test I did unbolt the PPF and wiggle things around. No change. The DP just moves with the tranny as they are directly bolted.

 

Lol... I know you are bro. And doing a great job.

BBQ is Aug 26thish....

 

OP,
I just did the cliff notes on the thread. Great work! The car is super clean and the audio media is ridiculous. Seriously, drive the car... But WOW! :P

 

Definitely trying to get there, lol. And thank you. It is becoming the FD I always wanted to build. A beautiful street car that is capable in every way, yet clean and fun to show off. Far from being finished but I am getting there. It's my 9th Rx7 spanning a 15 year period of ownership. I could never afford an FD until this point in my life. Now that I can, I want to do it the best I can.

The rest will be small details such as lighting and other drive-train mods as the deficits present themselves. I do plan to "re-visit" some of the things I've done, but overall, I am quite happy.

The only real big purchase left is a mint set of RZ seats. It will be fun finding those...

 

interesting. that 4" downpipe is huge. i'm guessing the rest of the exhaust is 4"? does that make a noticable difference in boost response?

really. that is interesting. i didn't even think about it until you mentioned that, i am guessing yours have all been for the turbosmart gates. you have any more info? they look the exact same, from what i can tell by googling images.

 

Yes it does help spool and overall power. As I have learned, a 3" exhaust starts to get restrictive above 450whp, especially with wastegates plumbed back in. EMAP also increases which can raise EGTs. 4" is the way to go for higher power setups.

The rest of the exhaust is a 3.75" Greddy Race exhaust.

 

this is what i plan on using for my setup as i have ac but no PS:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-750/overview/

 

As long as the ribs line up with the existing pulleys, it seems to be a great solution. Definitely let us know how it goes.