Banzai Racing 20B GT42RS 93 FD
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Indiana
Here are some vids taken today. A big thanks goes out to Joe1573 for coming down and playing cameraman
Front view http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...o_09-23-10.mpg
Engine http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...video_ebay.mpg
Joe that it would be a good idea to catch the Apexi PS Revo Active Tailpipe Silencer in action, when it gets all blurry, that is Joe jumping out of the way of the heat blast. He was standing a good 20-25ft behind the car, with the zoom lens
http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...t_09-23-10.mpg
Front view http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...o_09-23-10.mpg
Engine http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...video_ebay.mpg
Joe that it would be a good idea to catch the Apexi PS Revo Active Tailpipe Silencer in action, when it gets all blurry, that is Joe jumping out of the way of the heat blast. He was standing a good 20-25ft behind the car, with the zoom lens
http://www.banzai-racing.com/20B/20B...t_09-23-10.mpg
Is there any traction at all?
your dyno map only shows up to 7400, does it start to fall off afterwards? You mention the boost dropping so I'm assuming you're gonna wait until you replace the TB o-ring before you do a full powerband run?
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From: Indiana
Bingo! You can see the boost and torque dropping together. No reason to push it to the limits until the boost leak is resolved. This will maximize the torque.
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From: Indiana
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Thanks for the compliments.
It really does not cost a lot more to do a 20B then what most people spend on their cars with a Ported rebuild, single turbo and all the supporting mods. Don't get me wrong it does cost money, but in the "grand" scheme of things if someone were to just do a 20B, when their coolant seals went on their stock twins car, they would not have too much more invested then when they got done with the single turbo 13b. All the same upgraded parts need to be purchased, they are just a little bigger.
It really does not cost a lot more to do a 20B then what most people spend on their cars with a Ported rebuild, single turbo and all the supporting mods. Don't get me wrong it does cost money, but in the "grand" scheme of things if someone were to just do a 20B, when their coolant seals went on their stock twins car, they would not have too much more invested then when they got done with the single turbo 13b. All the same upgraded parts need to be purchased, they are just a little bigger.
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It really depends on the goals you have for your car. If it is currently bone stock and you are in the process of making the decision to go single turbo with all the supporting mods for 500+ hp, then it is a great time to consider a 20B. The only drawback is that you have to complete the entire conversion before you can enjoy the car, where as most people go single turbo over a period of time. This allows the owner the luxury of spreading out the costs and still being able to enjoy driving the car. For example the twins can be used on the 13b while the cooling, fuel, ignition, EMS systems are all being upgraded independently.
With the 20B, you really just have to upgrade everything all at once. This is where the sticker shock comes in. A well sorted out 450-500hp 13b single turbo, with all the supporting mods will run upward of $20k-$25k in parts (excluding Ebay cheapos and used) over the life of the project.
With the 20B, you really just have to upgrade everything all at once. This is where the sticker shock comes in. A well sorted out 450-500hp 13b single turbo, with all the supporting mods will run upward of $20k-$25k in parts (excluding Ebay cheapos and used) over the life of the project.
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From: Indiana
Tim, next time you come out to visit your relatives, stop by and I will let you take it for a drive. Should have it dialed into 20psi by then.
Rxilver7, the rotors, lines and pads were all upgraded back when it was stock twins on a two rotor. Still stops on a dime, no noticeable decrease in braking.
Rxilver7, the rotors, lines and pads were all upgraded back when it was stock twins on a two rotor. Still stops on a dime, no noticeable decrease in braking.
I have a couple questions. Forgive me if you addressed these earlier and I missed them.
Did you use a water pump from a 3rd gen? If so... Are they interchangeable or do you have to use a front iron from a 13B-REW?
Did you use a stock 3rd gen transmission or has it been modified? If totally stock (other than exedy clutch and so forth) How's it holding up to the torque? If not stock.... How did you modify it?
Just Kind of a random question..... If you use the automatic bell housing with the starter in front, would it still work correctly on a 3rd gen manual transmission?
thanks
Did you use a water pump from a 3rd gen? If so... Are they interchangeable or do you have to use a front iron from a 13B-REW?
Did you use a stock 3rd gen transmission or has it been modified? If totally stock (other than exedy clutch and so forth) How's it holding up to the torque? If not stock.... How did you modify it?
Just Kind of a random question..... If you use the automatic bell housing with the starter in front, would it still work correctly on a 3rd gen manual transmission?
thanks
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From: Indiana
Entire water pump housing is from the FD, with a custom thermostat housing on the 20B front iron. Stock rebuilt FD trans holding up just fine, no issues at all as of yet.
Never tried a FD manual trans with the auto bell housing, seems like the input shaft to the trans might be too short, but I do not really know. Never tried to mate the two.
Never tried a FD manual trans with the auto bell housing, seems like the input shaft to the trans might be too short, but I do not really know. Never tried to mate the two.
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From: Indiana
Took a few measurments today in regards to your bellhousing question. I happen to have a 20B auto bell housings and a few FD trans to look at so here is what I have found.
The 20B bellhousing is 7" deep, the FD manual is 5.5", the bolt pattern is also way off. Even if it were an easy bolt on, the input shaft would be 1.5" too short. You would also still need to eliminate or modify the PPF. Really there is nothing to gain using the FD trans with the 20B housing as the FD manual trans bolts to the 20B rear iron without any issues.
The 20B bellhousing is 7" deep, the FD manual is 5.5", the bolt pattern is also way off. Even if it were an easy bolt on, the input shaft would be 1.5" too short. You would also still need to eliminate or modify the PPF. Really there is nothing to gain using the FD trans with the 20B housing as the FD manual trans bolts to the 20B rear iron without any issues.
Interesting. Thanks for taking a look.
I like the idea of using a 3rd gen transmission with the 20b but if I install a 20b into an FD I would be using it as a drift car. I'm not too confident in how well it would hold up to that kind of abuse. I'm just trying to put things together for future options really. I like the HKS sequential, but I don't like it's price. I may end up with a transmission swap of some kind. I wonder if there is any way of strengthening the 3rd gen stuff WPC treatments maybe?
I like the idea of using a 3rd gen transmission with the 20b but if I install a 20b into an FD I would be using it as a drift car. I'm not too confident in how well it would hold up to that kind of abuse. I'm just trying to put things together for future options really. I like the HKS sequential, but I don't like it's price. I may end up with a transmission swap of some kind. I wonder if there is any way of strengthening the 3rd gen stuff WPC treatments maybe?
OK, I got a bit confused on this, as this statement:
>>Really there is nothing to gain using the FD trans with the 20B housing as the FD manual trans bolts to the 20B rear iron without any issues.
Seems to totally contradict the previous statement:
>>The 20B bellhousing is 7" deep, the FD manual is 5.5", the bolt pattern is also way off.
I am goign to guess this is becuase we are assuming the use of an auto-bell housing with the FD manual trans?
>>Really there is nothing to gain using the FD trans with the 20B housing as the FD manual trans bolts to the 20B rear iron without any issues.
Seems to totally contradict the previous statement:
>>The 20B bellhousing is 7" deep, the FD manual is 5.5", the bolt pattern is also way off.
I am goign to guess this is becuase we are assuming the use of an auto-bell housing with the FD manual trans?
I believe what he means is that the FD manual trans bellhousing to the rear iron match up (same as the 20b auto bellhousing) Where the bellhousing bolts to the gear box is totally different. So if you use a complete FD transmission the shorter input shaft wont matter, but if you magically bolted an FD gearbox to a 20b bellhousing it would be too short.