They can also be triggered by a boost activated switch. Thats how my mechanical water injection is activated. Set the switch to whatever pressure you want to come on, run a boost line to it, and put it on the ground or +12v side of a solenoid.

 

Again, nice work rx72c. I'm following the thread. Gets me more fired up about trying to get my heap back together.

B

 

Just setup my system with a boost activated switch since the progressive box didn't activate the pump. Also setup it up with the coolingmist 250psi pump set at 200psi. I love the ease of this setup but one thing is for sure, when it comes on it comes on hard! I've got an m10 nozzle and that thing flooded part of my garage and drained about 1/4 of my 1 gallon tank and it was only turned on about 20-25 seconds, lol. It works though I can tell you that much. Even at idle the egts were about 850 degrees and when I'd spray it the temps at idle would go down to about 780 degrees and lower. Not bad

 

Good luck man, can't wait to see where pre turbo injection takes you and the rest of the rotary community.

 

Ey Cam, I had a dream recently about doing an M2 (with alcohol) in front of the turbo. I don't know if it'll be efficacious or not. Based on my experience and familiarity with alcohol, my guess is it won't... but it wouldn't hurt to try.

B

 

It might work quite well with your no intercooler setup. Definitely won't hurt to try. Unless the alcohol ignites or something.

I think 50/50 would work better though. The water will cool more then alcohol under high boost when outlet temps are 250-300*F, then the alcohol would bring the temps down even more due to having a lower flash point. Smaller nozzles could probably be used and less alcohol usage from being mixed with water.

Another idea is a dual setup, one with alcohol and one with water. Use the water preturbo and the alcohol post turbo. The water could be a simple mechanical system and the alcohol pump driven. This setup adds complexity though.

 

Im not sure how methanol will go with your front wheel on the turbo, only one way to find out, but if you are able to get it work, id say your IAT will be shitloads better then any post turbo jet. I would almost go as far as saying as it would completely change your turbo efficiency ranges.


Also for people using water injection.
You have to be looking for the right results. If your looking for cooler IAT and cooler EGT, this is not water is best. It does cool both without a doubt. But its biggest factor, is it completely eliminates knock. this at the end of the day is what will result in your engine being stuffed.

 

Well, keep us updated for sure. All I can say is that these preturbo setups seem to be the key although a bit strange being that most AI companies tell you in their instructions "absolutely DO NOT place jet pre turbo"

 

Man that's a good idea, I still have a coolingmist 150psi pump, some line, and a smaller nozzle. Now all I need is another 40 dollar tank and a 24 dollar boost activated switch...... Hum....

edit: damn just found a switch for 12.99 lets see about a cheaper tank :O)

....oh dang 28 bucks...

 

ya im running a preturbo and post. gotta change my mixture to 50/50

so far not temp drops but temps right dont climb up the roof either

 

what kind of hp you makin'? Also what jet are you using pre and post turbo?

 

Check out usplastics.com they have the best prices on tanks by far. If you're thinking of running 2 systems you only need one boost switch. Just have them come on at the same time.

 

rx72c, I'm assuming when you say your recommending a better more cost effective kit your referring to the Rice Racing kit ?

 

Yet another good idea, then this should be cheap. Now to find out how much and where I can find alcohol.

 

i need to visually see a diagram to get an idea here how the mechanical system works... im really interested and have been reading up alot on this, whp know ww2 planes ran this system lol awesome

 

Here is how my system is done. My writeup found here

 

sweet, would a boost soloniod work if fully charged? like a mac (one use for aem boost controller) idk if the ports would be to small and also risk messing it up

i just found your thread and its very simple, btw theres no need for a one way valve to let the tank relieve pressure under vac? like a breather i guess or just running open to the compressor is alright?


where are the dyno vids!!!

 

This is my setup.

 

2 questions...


By the rate of your system injecting water... doesn't it affect your intercooler performance when using a preturbo setup? I guess the IC circuit allows the water to lose it's atomisation?

Basicaly filling the system with water.

or don't you use any intercooling?


Secondly, doesn't your water supply system need a reroute for overpressure?

more or less like a fuel setup using a pressure regulator and return line to the tank?

 

My preturbo uses an intercooler. The water gets e
Further atomized by the compressor, and once it mixes with all the extra air it's moving so fast through the system it gets pushed right on through. Any inefficiency that could be caused by the water is made up by the waters cooling effects. We can really only guess what's going on in the intercooler. With compressor outlet temps between 250-300 degrees, alot of the water would flash into steam, once is reaches the intercooler it may condense back into a liquid. In any case there is plenty of air for it to mix with. Whatever it's doing it works. Granted i've never run near as much water as rx72c, but from his results i would say lots of water works too. Keep in mind you have to have a good ignition to burn a mixture like that. High boost, lots of water, and fair bit of fuel isn't the easiest to burn.

 

That's a great fricken' idea, Brent. I think I'm gonna replicate it on a car here. Wow.

B

 

Btw rx72c, sorry for hijacking your thread!

 

Im not fussed. Its good people need to see what can be achieved.

the more info the better.

The above kit is what we now use.

 

I am a big fan of water only system. Very good results. Have you seen Peter's (rice)creations? He is something else.

 

Doesnt this act like a big vacuum leak? Are you drawing your boost source pre throttle body? Have you tried to run a solenoid on the boost line that is going to atomize the water so you can keep it closed when the WI is not on?