Yes they are rebadge. In aus NGK wont sell us the R7420 plugs. Have to get them from japan.

Yes we sell the spark plugs.

On my car that water is set to go flat out all the time so on and off system because my microtech is too **** to have a proper high speed valve to control it correctly.

My water comes on at 14psi. I cant bring it on earlier cause it floods the engine with water.

If i had a Haltech on my car and had a high speed valve, i would bring it on at 7psi and dial back some water in the lower boost areas and then dial in the water as the boost got higher, we have this setup on a customer car, gt35r runs 30psi. Works brilliant.

 

You ever thought about running the progressive box from coolingmist? THis should take care of that issue no? Thanks again for the info and I'll look for the plugs on your site.

 

No i have tried it. Its junk.

Good ecu is the only way to do it properly.

 

crap, that's the box I have, what didn't you like about it?

 

The dials easily come out of adjustment. That was enough for me to put me off the whole system.

8x8 fuel mapping tables isnt enough for 30psi worth of boost. Not in my opinion anyway.

I would prefer a on/off system over their variable purely for reliability and consistency sake.

 

I see, you can hook the controller up to a laptop and lock the **** value in place so that no amount of turning will change the values you have. Hopefully it will be enough for my 20-21psi of boost.

 

730ft/lbs at 703HP?? You sure you don't have an Ls1 in that thing?

Sweet stuff, great numbers on pump and water with a 42R. Car must be a sling shot!

 

A GT35R running at 30psi boost? I didnt know those turbos made power at that boost level.

 

Well unless you try it youll never find out.
Everyone seems to stop at 22-23psi and say that they have maxed it out.

It kept making more power and more power. I believe the water has alot to do with the turbo being more efficient at higher boost levels but its only a theory.

 

YES ! seems the Post turbo water systems are the way to go, i been playin with some Diesels and post turb. works great.

you know 1000hp truck is crazy, but its happenin. and fuel is only $2.30 US gal.

 

You mean preturbo, as that's what the OP is running. Post = after turbo

That seems to be a characteristic of preturbo injection, found many articles from a long time ago discussing this when I was designing mine. It makes sense too. What really dictates a compressor being out of efficiency is heat. When the turbo is making more heat then boost the engine can't make more power, air density decreases. But Water gets rid of the heat at the source w/ preturbo. In fact a turbo that's would normally be out of efficiency is at the perfect temperature for water to do the most cooling.

Same plugs I run, big difference over the EGV's. The greddy's are also much cheaper then the R7420's.


Congrats on the numbers, very impressive setup. Maybe one day i'll push my system that far. I completely agree on running conservative fuel/timing. Let the boost make the power. That's why the turbo is on there after all. I was thinking when you were running a bit lower boost that you had to lean out the mixture quite a bit to make power due to excessive water. I'm guessing the increased boost fixed this and allowed you to richen the mixture up? or is it still running a bit leaner?

 

My engine had std ports previously and i was fighting **** ports, **** spark plugs etc.

After putting some new ports in it etc its much better and can make power with much richer mixtures.

 

Congrats on the numbers! Do you have any pics on where you located the w.i nozzles?

 

yeah I started doing a bunch more research on this the past few days and there was more than one site that said preturbo injection is effectively changing the map of the turbo to look like a much larger one. Maybe I'll run more than 20psi on my t70

 

I'm currently running the NGK 6725 10.5s in all holes and plan to switch to the 7420s...... what plug gap are you running? thanks

 

Good r&d!!

Im a novice in mechanics so i had a question. I understand that preturbo= before turbo, I just don't see where do you tap on both your nozzels. If you have a picture it would be much appreciated.

Also, your water is set to come in at full blast at 15 Psi, if you don't reach 30PSI or even 25Psi what happens to your mixture of fuel/water? Isn't there too much water in your engine? or the fact that you are running 1700cc primary fuel injector saves you in the low boost area?Or dou you have your smaller injector of water come in at low boost (15PSI) and second bigger water injector at (30PSI)?

Off topic a bit but is your drive terrain ( transmission, drive shaft, axels, diff,etc) stock?

Thank you for your valuable information and time! I'm just trying to get as much info to run well with my set up. My interest of water injection is the additional reliability (engine temp, knock, EGT) and improvement. I belive you are on that path. My current set up: 20B mild street port, single GTK 850 turbonetics, microtech ltx12, primary 550cc, secondary 1000cc, 3 ngk coils and 3 bosh coils all ngk IR plugs. 470 whp 400 TQ at 10 PSI.

Andrew Kanho

 

That isnt a theory, it's a fact. I have a research paper that proves this with charts included. I just didnt know that it could improve it by that big of a margin.

 

If you dont mind, what is your timing and A/Fs like at 20psi and 30psi?

 

Afs are 10.8-11 on all boost ranges 20psi and up.

My car has 3 boost settings. 15psi, 25psi, 34psi. On 15psi it does run alot of water so my fuel mixtures their are 11.5-11.8:1 to compensate otherwise it breaks up alot. On the 25 and 34psi setting its perfect.

Egts do not get any higher then 950 degrees celcius unless im on the road and i load it up 2nd, 3rd, 4th , 5th it will go just over 1000 degrees celcius and im sure if i loaded it more it would get hotter.

My old engine use to see egts of over 1050-1100 degrees celcius and never minded it. So im not worried about the EGTs. Ive heard alot of people saying it musnt be over 900 and so on but my experience is showing me otherwise.

What i have found to be most most important is KNOCK, and this is where ive found water to be most effective. IT COMPLETELY eliminates any form of knock. Not just on pump fuel either.
we have tested a wi system on a car running e85 which was running in excess of 35psi of boost and we were picking up knock, setup a basic wi system with a 700cc jet and all traces of knock disappeared.

As for my jet placement.
Its in the front of the turbo. My inlet pipe has 2 jets right in the centre.Youll see the water line feeding it in the pic.

I have tried post turbo. Not as effective.


As for my drive train. I am running a FC gearbox and a ford 9 inch diff. Both have been holding up fine so far. Ive had alot of people say my fc gearbox will not shift at high rpm or it will break etc but it has been flawless. I will say my box was in very very good condition to start off with. Of course im using one of our In house twin plate clutches. Single plate clutches stopped working when we reached just under 400rwhp.

 

Nice work.

B

 

It's stuff like this that makes me entertain the idea of pre-turbo water stuff more seriously. I'm not sold on it for alcohol but for water, after seeing posts like this, I'm becoming a believer.

B

 

I couldnt really comment on alcohol as my experience is limited. But i will say as long as water is doing the job, i dont need to worry about alcohol or any of the headaches that come with it.

Tuning a water injected car is different to alcohol.
Your not replacing fuel with water. This is what people get wrong. You want lots of fuel, lots of water and a very very very strong ignition.

 

What's your timing like at 20psi and 30psi?

 

what ignition system are u using

 

Gap on spark plugs? thanks.