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What kind of v-mount? On fd

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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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What kind of v-mount? On fd

After reading a lot aboute the pros and cons.... Well... Most pro's.. I am wondering what kind i should go for. My setup is stock internals, Bnr turbos, kg fuel kit 800/1680, elbow, 3 inch exhaust no cat, pfc, hks twin power. Iv been looking at rotary works kit. Nice price. But is this kit good enough, looking for powerlevels around 350 and ip. Or are there any other kits that are better
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Two words.... Rotary Extreme. Quality and finish is unmatched. Enjoy keeping your A/C, having a frame mounted tow hook, and adding a PS cooler. I couldnt be happier with mine. Pics in build thread.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by XLR8
Two words.... Rotary Extreme. Quality and finish is unmatched. Enjoy keeping your A/C, having a frame mounted tow hook, and adding a PS cooler. I couldnt be happier with mine. Pics in build thread.
+1

I have seen many first hand. The Rotary Extreme is the best and most comprehensive kit I have had my hands on. The custom setup that Speed of light built for me is better but not easily available.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 08:04 PM
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You can find details of my Knight Sports install here.

If I were doing it again, I would probably go for the Rotary Extreme kit, though its AC solution is a long way from perfect. It mounts the condenser upside down (which dramatically reduces its efficiency) and does not include AC lines. However, it includes a power steering cooler, some very nice bracketry, and is one of the few kits that works with a cold air intake (at least in the non-monster configuration).

The claims that most makers of v-mount kits make about AC are specious. The "works with AC" claim is misleading at best. Any v-mount will work with AC if you are willing to put enough time into rerouting the lines and mounting the condenser (and possibly repositioning the dryer).

As you can see from my write-up, the Knight Sports had a nice condenser mounting solution but no provision for re-connecting the resulting relocated AC lines. Some of the Japanese kits come with custom AC lines (but these will generally not work with the common MANA AC systems on US cars).

In general, makers of v-mount kits should be a lot more up front about how much work it will take to get AC working with their kits. The lack of ducting on nearly all kits is also a major omission.
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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I would wait a new kit buy a really well known rotary rebuilder and turbo kit maker is coming out and im gonna have the first
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Oscypek1007
I would wait a new kit buy a really well known rotary rebuilder and turbo kit maker is coming out and im gonna have the first

What a tease. Please share.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 08:09 AM
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Also a happy with my rotary extreme kit. I have the regular size one and its does great on a 35r at 17psi.
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 09:30 AM
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A lot of great tips here.. Not to concerned with ac, removing it anyway i think. I was thinking aboute using the greedy s spec ic i have and bying a koyo and brackets, but not to sure how it would work. A pain to do a lot of welding to find out it does not fit.

Nice write up on the knight sport btw. Who is coming out with a new v mount kit... Dont be a tease.....
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Type_P10
Who is coming out with a new v mount kit... Dont be a tease.....
There are lots of available v-mount kits for the FD at many different price points - and many companies coming out with a v-mount kit 'any day now'.

I would go with a proven kit rather than vapourware.
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Finaly decided

Ok, after some thinking i am going to "upgrade" the cooling on my FD, since i think both air temp and water temps are too high and i have had problems with cavitation after removing my AP.

The setup i am going to run is a custom V-Mount (funding issue, if not i would be using Rotary extreme) based on a koyo rad and greddy s-spec FMIC. Here building the "frame" from scratch in alu and using rubber bushings to eliminate vibration.

On the water side of things, i am going to use a stewart e558A or e389A (realy dont know the difference other then the price here, inputs?) and removing the org WP housing by using atomic rex (UK) adapterplate.

Target water temp is 85-90C in engine water temp.

So my questions are. should i remove the t-stat all together and just use the remote controller on the pump ( as i understand the stewart ewp has "adjustable" flow with the remote control harness)

Is there a preferred angel when mounting a v mount to "optimize" airflow? i would assume that all the way flat (horizontal) would be bad?

So, any inputs or tips to how this should be done, or additional things i should do...?
BTW a lot of good reading in threads about this....
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 03:00 PM
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Sounds like we have about the same plans for our cars Would be nice to hear how it goes, maybe take a look, Øyvind13B på Mazda-OGN her.
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