What kind of v-mount? On fd
10-17-11, 12:44 PM
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What kind of v-mount? On fd
After reading a lot aboute the pros and cons.... Well... Most pro's.. I am wondering what kind i should go for. My setup is stock internals, Bnr turbos, kg fuel kit 800/1680, elbow, 3 inch exhaust no cat, pfc, hks twin power. Iv been looking at rotary works kit. Nice price. But is this kit good enough, looking for powerlevels around 350 and ip. Or are there any other kits that are better
10-17-11, 08:04 PM
#4
You can find details of my Knight Sports install here.
If I were doing it again, I would probably go for the Rotary Extreme kit, though its AC solution is a long way from perfect. It mounts the condenser upside down (which dramatically reduces its efficiency) and does not include AC lines. However, it includes a power steering cooler, some very nice bracketry, and is one of the few kits that works with a cold air intake (at least in the non-monster configuration).
The claims that most makers of v-mount kits make about AC are specious. The "works with AC" claim is misleading at best. Any v-mount will work with AC if you are willing to put enough time into rerouting the lines and mounting the condenser (and possibly repositioning the dryer).
As you can see from my write-up, the Knight Sports had a nice condenser mounting solution but no provision for re-connecting the resulting relocated AC lines. Some of the Japanese kits come with custom AC lines (but these will generally not work with the common MANA AC systems on US cars).
In general, makers of v-mount kits should be a lot more up front about how much work it will take to get AC working with their kits. The lack of ducting on nearly all kits is also a major omission.
If I were doing it again, I would probably go for the Rotary Extreme kit, though its AC solution is a long way from perfect. It mounts the condenser upside down (which dramatically reduces its efficiency) and does not include AC lines. However, it includes a power steering cooler, some very nice bracketry, and is one of the few kits that works with a cold air intake (at least in the non-monster configuration).
The claims that most makers of v-mount kits make about AC are specious. The "works with AC" claim is misleading at best. Any v-mount will work with AC if you are willing to put enough time into rerouting the lines and mounting the condenser (and possibly repositioning the dryer).
As you can see from my write-up, the Knight Sports had a nice condenser mounting solution but no provision for re-connecting the resulting relocated AC lines. Some of the Japanese kits come with custom AC lines (but these will generally not work with the common MANA AC systems on US cars).
In general, makers of v-mount kits should be a lot more up front about how much work it will take to get AC working with their kits. The lack of ducting on nearly all kits is also a major omission.
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10-18-11, 09:30 AM
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A lot of great tips here.. Not to concerned with ac, removing it anyway i think. I was thinking aboute using the greedy s spec ic i have and bying a koyo and brackets, but not to sure how it would work. A pain to do a lot of welding to find out it does not fit.
Nice write up on the knight sport btw. Who is coming out with a new v mount kit... Dont be a tease.....
Nice write up on the knight sport btw. Who is coming out with a new v mount kit... Dont be a tease.....
11-14-11, 11:50 AM
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Finaly decided
Ok, after some thinking i am going to "upgrade" the cooling on my FD, since i think both air temp and water temps are too high and i have had problems with cavitation after removing my AP.
The setup i am going to run is a custom V-Mount (funding issue, if not i would be using Rotary extreme) based on a koyo rad and greddy s-spec FMIC. Here building the "frame" from scratch in alu and using rubber bushings to eliminate vibration.
On the water side of things, i am going to use a stewart e558A or e389A (realy dont know the difference other then the price here, inputs?) and removing the org WP housing by using atomic rex (UK) adapterplate.
Target water temp is 85-90C in engine water temp.
So my questions are. should i remove the t-stat all together and just use the remote controller on the pump ( as i understand the stewart ewp has "adjustable" flow with the remote control harness)
Is there a preferred angel when mounting a v mount to "optimize" airflow? i would assume that all the way flat (horizontal) would be bad?
So, any inputs or tips to how this should be done, or additional things i should do...?
BTW a lot of good reading in threads about this....
The setup i am going to run is a custom V-Mount (funding issue, if not i would be using Rotary extreme) based on a koyo rad and greddy s-spec FMIC. Here building the "frame" from scratch in alu and using rubber bushings to eliminate vibration.
On the water side of things, i am going to use a stewart e558A or e389A (realy dont know the difference other then the price here, inputs?) and removing the org WP housing by using atomic rex (UK) adapterplate.
Target water temp is 85-90C in engine water temp.
So my questions are. should i remove the t-stat all together and just use the remote controller on the pump ( as i understand the stewart ewp has "adjustable" flow with the remote control harness)
Is there a preferred angel when mounting a v mount to "optimize" airflow? i would assume that all the way flat (horizontal) would be bad?
So, any inputs or tips to how this should be done, or additional things i should do...?
BTW a lot of good reading in threads about this....
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