I posted this thread in the 2nd generation specific area by accident.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/what-happened-my-engine-400540/

I was driving home today, was accelerating quickly, but not nearly max throttle, and around 4000 rpm it just went bluh. I was able to drive it home wich took 20 minutes. The oil pressure never changed all the way home and the temperature didn't change either, although the temp light was on. It just sounded so bad and had almost no power. When ever I stopped it would stall. I didn't hear any bad noise from the engine as far as anything breaking, just a total change in exhaust noise.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mark

 

I was going to check compression. Finally was able to find the spark plugs from jacking the car up and looking under. Is there an easier way to get to them?
Also, when performing compression test, do I check it at the leading or trailing plug? I don't think it matters, but figured I'd ask.

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/c...sion_test.html

 

you check it at the trailing plug hole. Also you may want to pop off the radiator cap and turn the car over. If a coolant seal has govne bad you will see a guyser of coolant pump out the filler. The compression check is a good idea as well but a coolant seal being bad can sometimes pass the compression test.

if you are using a standard compression gauge, remove the shrader valve so you get seperate pulses for each rotor face. Try doing the test with the engine warm.

 

the trailing plug hole is where you check it at. turn the car over and pop off the radiator cap, if a coolant seal took a **** you will see some coolant spitting out the filler. i would also do a compression check, but sometimes a bad coolant seal can pass the test. makes sure to do the test with the engine still warm.

 

Thank you, will take some readings at the trailing plug.
As far as removing the circuit opening relay, I'll have to figure which that is. It is all written in Japanese.

 

I got the connector off the ignitor module. How does the circuit opening relay (green) come out? I pulled with as much as I could with only my fingertips (can't get a good grip). Afraid to use plyers, don't want to break it. Is there a trick, locking mechanism, something?
Also, my compression gauge, it had 2 valves. One on the hose just below the meter, with a push button for releasing pressure. The other is right at the threads where it connects in the plug hole. Do I remove both, or if one, which one. If I remove the one near the meter it leaves a hole that air will just escape, so should that one stay? Please help.
Thank you,
Mark

 

You can use pliers to remove the relay, just don't "squeeze" the pliers more than enough just to lightly grip it. They are very fragile and it doesn't take much to break them.

 

just remove the valve that goes into the hose. The one that is threading into the spark plug hole. Otherwise as you said, the compression will just escape from the upper hole. rendering the hole test useless.

 

I checked the rear's compression today. The compression meter never moved. I haven't used this tester in 10 years so I don't think it is any good. Anyway, thanks to all who helped. I have an apt tomorrow w/ a mechanic. I'll come back here to let you all know what happened.
Mark

 

Ha, the mazda dealership wants 6,100 euro (about $8,000) for a new engine. Not including labor.
Question I have is...
If I have no experience on rotary engines, and purchase the turrentine videos (r&r and overhaul videos), and I don't own an engine lift or engine stand, what chances do I have in doing this job myself?
I have not found anyone here in northern Italy that knows how to rebuild rotary engines. So I'm definitely stuck.
Any good info is appreciated.
Mark

 

You could always buy a reman and drop that in. Rebuilding a 13B is cake, you just need the time and money!

 

Well, that's going to depend on how deep your pockets are.... While rebuilding a rotary isn't "hard" per say, doing anything with the wrong tools makes it 10x more difficult.

Keep in mind, that rebuilding the engine may cost a lot more than just the rebuild kit. It's possible that once you get to the point where the engine is torn down; the housings and/or rotors are all damaged beyond reuse.

Not to mention, you'll spend money buying various tools, measuring equipment, parts washer and solution, etc....

If you don't have any of this up front (or know someone), then you might want to go a different route.

 

Anyone have a suggestion on who I should order a rebuild from?

 

easiest would be the local dealer. if you wanted a ported engine or anything else done to it. Gotham Racing would be your best bet. However the shipping costs to get it to Italy will be huge. So a reman from the dealer will do you best probably.

As far as doing the work yourself, If you get the tools and lifts needed it is pretty straight forward. BUT if you have the dealer do the work, you can always hold them responsible if anything goes wrong.

You may want to contact Higgi on this forum. He lives in the Chech. And he may be closer and a good person to have help you out. he is very good with the second gen turbos and will probably be able to help you out with the engine rebuild..rather than sending one from the US. Try pm'ing him and talking story.

 

You can get rebuild engine in UK also. I suggest you drop by at www.mazdarotaryclub.co.uk and on European section on this forum.

P.S.: A friend of mine bought new engine for his FD for about $6500 in Slovenia.

In UK they are about 4000pounds I think (with porting).

 

The mazda dealer here only sells new, not rebuilt (at $8k). Haven't found anyone else that sells any or any mechanic that knows rotaries.
I'm on a military base and I'm curious if it is too heavy for USPS, no international charges this way. I'll check out Gotham Racing.
Thanks
Mark

 

Yes, friend bought also new engine, not rebuilt. Aprox. $6.5k

If you are in a base you should be able to get it overhere for cheap I reckon.

 

The mechanic said that there was no compression in one rotor only. I asked if it had any at all, and he said 0. If it was an apex seal, it would have at least given a reading for one good side, right? What usually causes it to be 0,0,0?

 

That will happen when at least 2 apex seals gone out, which typically is the case. When one lets loose, it usually takes the other 2 with it.

 

captain combo or something like that is in Italy also. might want to PM him and see if he has any info for you.

 

Thanks, I sent him a letter.
Thought of one more... If this car was on a boat from japan to italy for 3 months, would the sitting cause this? Just curious for I might try to claim it on the shipping company. Worth a shot.

 

Well, the mechanic has the engine out. He has it almost ready to disassemble, but he showed me some problems. The wiring harness is old and very brittle with exposed wires in some areas. Where is a good place to get a replacement harness?
Thanks to all in the FD community.
Mark

 

Try the forsale section of the forum. I see them floating around there sometimes.

 

Replacement harness is the least of the worries. I prayed that having no compression at all it wasn't an apex seal. However, it was and it took out the others, as well as scoring the housing and the three sides of the rotor. Is it worth rebuilding or should I get one of those nice stage 2 engines from www.rx7store.net?