I was driving home today, was accelerating quickly, but not nearly max throttle, and around 4000 rpm it just went bluh. I was able to drive it home wich took 20 minutes. The oil pressure never changed all the way home and the temperature didn't change either, although the temp light was on. It just sounded so bad and had almost no power. When ever I stopped it would stall. I didn't hear any bad noise from the engine as far as anything breaking, just a total change in exhaust noise.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Mark

 

Do a compression test first, that could answer all your questions...

 

Or cause you to cry...

 

^ lol... sorry.

Most likely your engine is done... But def. do a compression test just in case. Same thing happened to my N/A several months ago, so I feel for you brotha'.

Hopefully you have another car you can drive while you're rebuilding it .

 

could be a clogged cat. My old NA did that and the cat was clogged up....put a new one on and it was fine...

 

Other than blowing the engine, I was hoping it was a clogged cat. Here in Italy they don't care about emisions, so maybe I can take it out and put a straight pipe in if it is that.
What does it sound like when you lose a seal? The tone of the engine sounds alot lower.
I have a compression tester for a regular car. I saw a post about having to remove the valve first for rotary engines. After I hook it up to the spark plug hole, what do I look for?

 

oh by the way, anyone know how to check if the cat is clogged w/ it still in the car?

 

I don't run "emmissions equipment" per-say, so this is only what I've heard.. but if a Cat is clogged, it will glow red when the car is running..

 

Sorry, one more question. The light on the dash board for temperature, what is that a warning light for? The temp gauge for coolant was in the middle, so I didn't think it was water temp.

 

there's an exhaust overheat warning light that comes on if the cat gets too hot (clogged usually)

 

If I take out the CAT, what performance decrease, if any, will I experience w/out that extra back pressure?

 

if it's a s4, then your 6-ports won't open, and power will decrease and you will lose the high end, if it's an s5... you will gain a little top end, but lose a little low end...

(correct me if i'm wrong)

 

Not sure what the s4 or s5 is, but my car is the FD3S 1992 Japanese spec. (yeah, it was a bit weird at first driving on the right side of the road w/ the steering wheel on the wrong side).

 

Thats a little confusing. Did they release third gen rx7s in japan in 92 I thought they were all 93s??? Anyways if you have a non turbo 2nd gen then my friend you have an s5 or you may know them as kouki which are the 89-92 FC3S 7s. S4 is the 86-88 also known as zenki. Hope that helps but you shold notice an increased top end on kouki 7s and better gas mileage

 

Yes, in Japan they did make the 3rd gen in 92. Sorry I put the post under 2nd gen, but I only looked at the year time frame. Saw 92 and clicked it.

 

ah then you have neither you lucky dog....Must be nice to have an FD I wish I could afford one. You could have a host of problems with a third gen. Most likely your motors toast or you have a vacuum problem of some sort. My friend has an FD and the actuator between the two turbos was broken and it caused neither of his turbos to boost properly(really bad boost). Fds have more vacuum lines then you could could on 50 hands so now that you say 3rd gen which are all bi turbo I say it could def be a vacuum leak somewhere in the 10,000 vacuum lines you have..sorry man

 

Only paid 3500 for it when I lived in Japan. Used cars go really cheap there. Especially when his wife is pregnant and they needed to buy a family car.
Lots of americans that get stationed there pick up skylines. I liked the RX7 a hell of a lot better.

 

Were you in the infamous forth gear?

-Joseph