dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

I see alot of terms floating around for part finishing and I am looking to be able to make a decision comparing advantages and disadvantages.

I see terms like cerma-chrome, ceramic, "OEM" blackening, zinc plating, cadium plating and others.

Any experience and advice on what to do and not do would be greatly appreciated.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Cerma-chrome is a standard ceramic coating which looks like chrome.

As for the finishes, it really depends on the metal type and the application. For my motor, I picked ceramic coatings for the pieces on the lower portion of the engine (like the LIM) and the cooling system pieces (like the water pump housing). The ceramic coating will help resist heat which is why it's popular for manifolds and exhaust pieces.

The others are mainly just coatings to protect from corrosion. There is also anodizing. True anodizing won't chip like plating can, but not all places that do anodizing can do all types of metals. There are different processes for different metals. I attempted to get some parts anodized about a year or so ago at a local shop and they couldn't do anything aluminum based. However, there are lots of places which can anodize aluminum.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

I used chrome ceramic coating on my LIM, but sold my UIM because it doesn't match polished pieces very well.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Anodizing is pretty much an aluminum-only process.

Cadmium plating is a common process for coating a plain steel part so that it looks good when new, but it will typically rust thru after some time. It has that goldish color with hues of iridescence. It's becoming less common because of the environmental issues related to the manufacturing process.

Zinc plating is most often used on plain steel fasteners. It too rusts thru, but it sure looks nice out of the box.

Blade oxide is the cheapest of all coatings, that keeps parts from rusting until they are put into service. It rusts faster than zinc plating. You can buy black oxide bolts and stuff in carbon steel.

Chrome and nickel plating are worth mentioning while we're making a list. Chrome is less lustrous but more durable than nickel. Nickel is usually applied in a micro-thin layer, so it's easily scratched off.

Cad plating, blade oxide, and zinc plating are not designed to improve wear resistance like the ceramics are.

It's important to note that all coatings are very heavily dependent upon the base material.

Dave

FDZero

iTrader: (10)

Maddslow, can you please describe more of the color-match...like how off or close it is? I'm about to send out my UIM for ceramic-coating and TB for polishing. It doesn't have to be 100% but at least 90-%95 close. I can still switch over to polish if need-be as I'm shipping out my stuff this week. THanks in advance for input.

Tam

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

Sure, I'll even provide a pic for ya I'm receiving so many questions about this, that I decided to load an old pic onto my photobucket:



My ceramic coated UIM stood out so much, and I was questioned so many times why it didn't match, that I gave up on it and decided to just have my old stocker polished. Notice the difference between the UIM to the TB/Elbow. BIG difference, and honestly, looked like ****. I'm 100x happier now with my polished piece, definitely the way to go.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Take a look at the picture above. The UIM is polished, the LIM is ceramic chrome.

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

^Thats the exact route I took... without all of those fancy hoses

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the great responses has been informative.

Specifically I want something for my:

UIM, LIM, Turbo charge pipe, exhaust pipes, intercooler.

I wanted something black but with low gloss which would resist heat, but I don't know if the "high temp paints: that resist to 1500 degs, is this acceptable or POS?

Also, does powdercoating have any specific properties?

MADDSLOW

iTrader: (11)

IIRC, powder coating is strictly cosmetic. Your best bet for low-gloss black is the 3000+*(can't remember the exact number) flat black ceramic coating, I've seen units in person and they look VERY nice. From what you are describing, this appears to be your ONLY and BEST option.

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

I'd rather ceramic coat black...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I should have reprhased the statement, but the aluminum needs to be 100% aluminum to be anodized (which a lot of the stock FD parts aren't). Otherwise, the part will be damaged in the bath. Other metals such as titanium, magnesium, zinc, and a few others can be anodized.

paximus

iTrader: (1)

I work for a coatings company.
Here are some pictures I took of polished Stainless vs. a polished Cermet coating.
Just to give you a base of the difference.

I need to get one vs polished Aluminum still.

Oh, the tip is the polished stainless.

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

One on the right looks alot better.

From what I can understand main disadvantage of ceramic coating is chipping?

Also I have some hood pins that I want to go black with anodizing is the only way to go?

Thanks again.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The ceramic coatings don't chip easily. Power coating chips easily.

Depending on what the pins are made out of, yes. The other issue with ceramic or power coating adds size to the part. Anodizing does add some, but not that much. It would only be something noticeable in bolt threads or something like that.