I have a pretty decent front cover gasket leak so I'll be tearing into it. It's not hard to access since I'm single with a FMIC and no A/C, but while I'm in there i figure I'll take care of some things:

replace thermopellet
change gasket to JDM metal
weld OMP hole shut (so i don't need a BOP)

I also want to remove the gear that drives the OMP, but will I need an equally sized spacer machined to replace it? Also any other OMP pieces internally that I could remove?

I might even get crazy and weld in an -10an fitting to relieve oil pan pressure for hard turns at the track (eventually)

Any other suggestions?

Also the parts I should need are:

- waterpump housing gasket
- waterpump gasket (might not even need it to
- metal front cover gasket
- front main seal
- thermopellet replacement (where is this located)
- oil o-ring (only 1 right?)

Some of the answers may seem obvious, but I haven't removed it yet, just preparing.

 

Number one you'll need to jamb something between the bellhousing and the flywheel to keep the flywheel pushed forward and keep the front stack spacer from falling out of place before you remove the front bolt.

You need a 3/4 impact gun or a long cheater bar to remove the e-shaft bolt. It can be a real pain.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=gadd

You can leave the drive gear on the e-shaft and just remove the OMP shaft and gear from the front cover.

I don't see the point of adding a vent, and definetly not a AN-10 that's a 5/8" hose. Making sure the stock vent is clear and add a baffle to the oil filler neck to keep the oil from creaping up the filler neck. I just cut a piece of aluminum to fit tightly in the base of the neck and drilled a 3/8" hole in it.

The TP is in the front of the e-shaft behind the bolt and there is one o-ring on the bolt. Also you'll need to put some sealer on the bolt flange and some blue locktight on the threads.

 

I don't think you want to remove the gear and shaft...with the motor still in the car.

you'll have to tap the oil feed oil on the front iron and block it off...otherwise oil will just spill out of the OMP feed, and oil pressure will drop causing the front gear bearing to fail.

I ran this way on the last motor I built (no ill effects)...but left the gear on the shaft as the spacer.

 

Blocking the OMP feed line is probably a good idea, but that oil passage is after the front gear and is open to the crankcase anyway even with all OMP parts in place.

 

Front e-shaft bolt and pellet.

 

hmm, so whats the consensus on the OMP feed then? dubulup, did you actually experience a drop in oil pressure or is it assumed? I'd love to get everything that's unneeded out of there.

Also about the pellet, there's no real downside to the atkins/mazdatrix pellet right? BTW who made it originally or who supplies them now (so I can give proper credit when referring to it).

As for the -10 vent, it was doen by a member on a 2nd gen i believe. It was at the end of like a 20 page thread about oil sloshing up the filler neck. I see that RESpeed makes a slick filler neck now with built in baffles, which should probably be enough, but I figured while I was in there...

Actually what I thought was pressure in the front cover causing my oil drain to leak was actually the leak in my front cover gasket. It was up high and would drip down slowly to the spinning pulley which whipped it about my engine bay, very hard to diagnose. So I could probably skip the vent

 

GASKET,PUMP - N3A1-15-116 - $2.95
O RING - N231-10-174 - $1.10
GASKET, FRONT COVER(metal) - N390-10-502 - $21.30
RING,BACKUP - N326-10-C15 - $2.10
e-shaft O RING - 9954-10-1105 - $4.40
seal, oil wedge (front main) - N3A1-10-507 - $6.55
gasket (WP housing to engine) - N386-15-162 - $2.00

*MazdaComp prices shown

 

I never experience a spun bearing but a friend on "The Other" forum experienced [IIRC] two spun bearing before the problem was found.

^very experienced engine builder

 

well then she's staying in

 

I would definetly defer to Mr. Ludwig's expertise. But the passage would be easy to block off, and removing the shaft means there is one less thing spinning around in the front cover.

Paul

 

Do the Pinnapple Racing mod to that pellet.

 

I think that's what I planned on, unless it's different than Artkin's and Mazdatrix does. Aren't they just bypassing it pretty much, the piece is just spun aluminum right?

 

He's talking about modifying the OEM pellet so that it stays closed all the time.

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...e_Modification

The aftermarket ones are all the same. They just block a hole in the e-shaft.

Paul

 

I've done this to all my cars, 3 - 5/16" lock washers and you're done

later