Gadd

Here’s a couple of custom tools that have come in handy. They are cheap, easy to make and very effective.



The first picture is two short pieces of 2" ABS pipe and two caps. One has a air fitting installed in the end. The pipe fits in to the stock air intake pipes and allow you to pressurize the entire intake track. ( 10 psi is plenty ) Even the smallest boost leak become very obvious.




The second is a piece of 4" x 1/8" flat bar I’ve machined the bar to bolt to the e-shaft front hub and set on the right frame rail. This allows you to safely remove the E-shaft bolt while the engine is still in the car. CAUTION Do Not remove the front E-shaft bolt without taking the proper precautions to keep the thrust bearing from falling out of place!!

zullo

You know, that intake air fitting is a damn good idea. If anyone sees a hazard in doing this, let me know..

How are you pressurizing the system? I assume you're using a Schraeder valve fitting so you can monitor the pressure with a tire gauge? Is it safe to hit it with a 90 psi blast from the shop compressor? How are you securing the ABS caps? I can see them firing off explosively with 10 psi in the system.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Pressure testing is VITAL to proper performance on any turbocharged car - mystery boost leaks can cause all sorts of problems. A buddy of mine just started making nice pre-made boost testers with schraeder valves and pressure gauges.

Any other pics of the front pulley tool? That's pretty slick. I've traditionally just put the car in gear and cranked up the E-brake, then put a big breaker bar on the front pulley. Not super glamorous, but works every time.

Dale

Gadd

I'm really paranoid of bending the e-shaft... this tool takes the load right at the front pulley hub.

Gadd

I just used a air hose fitting and set my compressor regulator to 10 psi. You'll leak air past the seals in the engine so you need a constant suppy of air. I would not use any more than 10 psi 90 psi would be a BAD idea