reliability vs mileage
05-04-14, 03:02 AM
#1
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reliability vs mileage
Hi guys
Been reading about the reliability mods but wanted to know if a 13b can still give one good mileage on the engine. I'm talking about getting at least 100 000 miles on a rebuilt engine.
Reason I'm asking are as follows:
1. My motor blew and I'm wondering if I should throw the rotar away but as an owner of a fd I can't find the heart to do that.
2. Quoted to build a single turbo rotor with power seals but have doubts if the car will last
3. I want to race the car every now and again but want it more for the street.
What are your guys thoughts?
Been reading about the reliability mods but wanted to know if a 13b can still give one good mileage on the engine. I'm talking about getting at least 100 000 miles on a rebuilt engine.
Reason I'm asking are as follows:
1. My motor blew and I'm wondering if I should throw the rotar away but as an owner of a fd I can't find the heart to do that.
2. Quoted to build a single turbo rotor with power seals but have doubts if the car will last
3. I want to race the car every now and again but want it more for the street.
What are your guys thoughts?
05-04-14, 07:21 AM
#2
This is a difficult question to answer. Obviously it's a sports car so you want to modify and have fun with it, like race it every now and then. Ultimately though, that is going to decrease it's lifespan.
Owning these cars though, you must learn how to work and rebuild them yourself. Especially if you want to keep it forever.
Granted, 100k miles is possible but unlikely on a boosted rotary engine. Maintenance is key but IMO, 100k miles is wishful thinking.
The more boost you throw at an engine, the shorter the lifespan.
It seems your concern is a financial one, or you just don't want to rebuild the car every couple of years. That's why I say you'll want to learn how to rebuild it yourself, to save you tons of $$.
Owning these cars though, you must learn how to work and rebuild them yourself. Especially if you want to keep it forever.
Granted, 100k miles is possible but unlikely on a boosted rotary engine. Maintenance is key but IMO, 100k miles is wishful thinking.
The more boost you throw at an engine, the shorter the lifespan.
It seems your concern is a financial one, or you just don't want to rebuild the car every couple of years. That's why I say you'll want to learn how to rebuild it yourself, to save you tons of $$.
05-04-14, 09:54 AM
#4
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i've seen factory cars do more than 100k, without much in the way of repair work. the 100K recipe is simple. although its pricey, and you cannot be fancy. stock is reliable, the more you mod it, the more questionable things get
you need a NEW engine, or an engine built from substantially new parts, irons rotors, housings, etc.
the cooling system needs to be new too, it is critically important.
so thats ALL of the hoses, thermostat, water pump, radiator. plan on replacing the upper radiator hose in the middle of the 100k journey. where i am, we don't get a big freeze, so the Mazda AST lasts longer than the aftermarket metal ones, they tend to be built too cheaply to work...
use OEM hoses, Mazda uses a rubber that lasts forever, i've seen radiator hoses on other Mazda rotaries last for 30 years. you also want to use the Mazda clamps, they keep a constant tension on the hose. if it leaks, you need a hose, its very simple and it WORKS. silicon hoses should be ok, except that they are like 40x the cost and you need clamps that need to be checked.
the oiling system, probably just needs the second cooler, if you don't already.
if you keep the metering pump, it needs new lines.
the fuel system: you need new primary injectors, and all the o rings, and the damper. you should order the fuel recall kit too, its all the fuel lines under the intake, inexpensive. new fuel filters, there is one in the tank.
obviously a new clutch.
turbo is up to you...
if you have any money left, the gas tank is empty
you need a NEW engine, or an engine built from substantially new parts, irons rotors, housings, etc.
the cooling system needs to be new too, it is critically important.
so thats ALL of the hoses, thermostat, water pump, radiator. plan on replacing the upper radiator hose in the middle of the 100k journey. where i am, we don't get a big freeze, so the Mazda AST lasts longer than the aftermarket metal ones, they tend to be built too cheaply to work...
use OEM hoses, Mazda uses a rubber that lasts forever, i've seen radiator hoses on other Mazda rotaries last for 30 years. you also want to use the Mazda clamps, they keep a constant tension on the hose. if it leaks, you need a hose, its very simple and it WORKS. silicon hoses should be ok, except that they are like 40x the cost and you need clamps that need to be checked.
the oiling system, probably just needs the second cooler, if you don't already.
if you keep the metering pump, it needs new lines.
the fuel system: you need new primary injectors, and all the o rings, and the damper. you should order the fuel recall kit too, its all the fuel lines under the intake, inexpensive. new fuel filters, there is one in the tank.
obviously a new clutch.
turbo is up to you...
if you have any money left, the gas tank is empty
05-04-14, 10:22 AM
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Thanks. I'll be building the engine and everything will be new. T66 turbo and will be running .8 bar boost only. Water meth will be installed with an aftermarket radiator. Car will be Street ported and the mechanic says with constant oil changes car will last. I just hope so. I'm not so worried about a rebuild however I'd like to rebuild as less as possible. Not having the car to drive is a bigger concern.
My build also includes a Street port, new fuel lines to go with the aem 450lt pump t66 turbo bigger intercooler and 1600cc secondary injectors.
I will have gauges for everything and an upgraded clutch.
My build also includes a Street port, new fuel lines to go with the aem 450lt pump t66 turbo bigger intercooler and 1600cc secondary injectors.
I will have gauges for everything and an upgraded clutch.
05-04-14, 10:25 AM
#6
I bought mine completely stock and lasted about 90k+. It was under extended warranty so got a reman from dealer which lasted around 90k. Had stock boost, intake, exhaust, radiator, etc (reliability mods) on the reman. So its possible on near stock, but unlikely heavily modded
05-04-14, 11:15 AM
#7
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If you want 100k plus, stay close to stock power with a near-stock engine and enjoy. Keep up the maintenance, get your fan temps lower to keep coolant temps more reasonable, and you'll be in good shape.
Now, if you want big power, you're going to shorten the lifespan of the engine. The good thing is now there are apex seals that can handle far more abuse, there's water injection, there are better computers and tuning.....you can make a lot of horsepower far more reliably than in the past.
Dale
Now, if you want big power, you're going to shorten the lifespan of the engine. The good thing is now there are apex seals that can handle far more abuse, there's water injection, there are better computers and tuning.....you can make a lot of horsepower far more reliably than in the past.
Dale
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05-05-14, 02:51 PM
#10
With the cars being this old, and being a 2nd or 3rd vehicle for its owners, what usually does them in is a catastrophic failure. Some coolant hose cracks, it overheats, and it's done. The engine overboosts and it's done. The engine loses fuel pressure under boost and it's done. Most owners probably put less than 10k miles on it per year. When an engine fails it's often because something goes horribly wrong after 2-3 years.
So think more about how you can prevent a catastrophic failure than how you can have a slower rate of wear on internal seals.
So think more about how you can prevent a catastrophic failure than how you can have a slower rate of wear on internal seals.
05-05-14, 05:35 PM
#12
My first motor was a mazda reman. Bought it with the car, had 50k miles on the motor. I added another 25k. Running 13psi on stock twins. Pulled that motor out, swapped it into an FB. Still going strong, with another 10k miles under the belt. Pulls -19in/vac. Starts instantly, and never smokes.
Don't overheat, dont detonate.
I have faith in the rotary. I have a feeling that motor will continue to run until 100k without a hiccup.
My current FD motor is pushing 525hp, however I keep coolant temps under 200F and run water injection. We'll see how long this little guy hangs in there.
Don't overheat, dont detonate.
I have faith in the rotary. I have a feeling that motor will continue to run until 100k without a hiccup.
My current FD motor is pushing 525hp, however I keep coolant temps under 200F and run water injection. We'll see how long this little guy hangs in there.