pics of my water injection set up!!
aquamists web site says the hose is .16 diameter, the one I use is .17 inner diameter poly hose($1.20 from home depot). Remember, you will need different brass fittings based on the water line hose that you order.
the guy definitely said .2 something. ioughno. anyway i have the mcmaster nozzles and will compare to aquamist $16 super happy deluxe nozzels. they're listed as nickel cadium (sp) plated brass.
i'll probably wait and bring all my shtuff to home depot and camp out in the plumbing isle for a couple days
oh and random note: i hate ups. the three boxes the solenoid, switch, and my new door handle came in all were beat to hell.
i'll probably wait and bring all my shtuff to home depot and camp out in the plumbing isle for a couple days

oh and random note: i hate ups. the three boxes the solenoid, switch, and my new door handle came in all were beat to hell.
Originally posted by airborne Ok, here's where i try to give back after all the pestering. I emailed a bunch of aquamist's US suppliers and only one has responded, Kansas City Saab, which is where I believe luv94rx7 got his kit. I have a price list of all the individual components and you can order anything individually. Contact info:Brad - George's Imports Ltd.
816-333-6582 brad@kcsaab.com
Some interesting things:
Water level sensor kit, $32
Inline water filter, $11
Their nozzles/jets are expensive though, $16.
Sizes .4mm to 1mm in .1mm increments, 4mm hosetail.
i'm going to attach the pdf as a zip file. its a bit long to copy/paste. I'll probably order the filter and a couple of the smaller nozzles...
816-333-6582 brad@kcsaab.com
Some interesting things:
Water level sensor kit, $32
Inline water filter, $11
Their nozzles/jets are expensive though, $16.
Sizes .4mm to 1mm in .1mm increments, 4mm hosetail.
i'm going to attach the pdf as a zip file. its a bit long to copy/paste. I'll probably order the filter and a couple of the smaller nozzles...
I just talked to Brad and he said to start with the .9mm nozzle. He told me of a 400rwhp BMW that uses two .9mm nozzles. Can't have too much water if the spark can handle it.
Steve Kan is flying up tomorrow to install the 2d kit and Brad will be available for Aquamist questions and Richard from Aquamist will be available via phone also,
he's in England.
Brad is a great guy. I highly recommend him for any Aquamist questions and purchase of products.
When I upgraded my SMIC to a ASP(M2) Large racing SMIC, I needed some more plastic tubing due to the new IC was bigger and I did not have enough tubing. Brad sent me many feet of it for free. Here again great support from Brad.
Ken, 59 years young
'94 white, PEP, red leather,
mods: KDR street port & polished,
3mm Hurley racing seals, Hayes upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
Tuned by Steve Kan,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
ASP(M2) Large Racing SMIC with 1630CFM Pull Fan,
Aquamist 2d water injection kit,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Profec B(15&25psi),
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
MSD 6a(3),
Under Pulley(No Air Pump),
Pettit ss resonated mp,
Pettit ss cat-back,
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
Originally posted by LUV94RX7
Ya, I got my 2s kit from Brad. I'm converting to the 2d kit.
I just talked to Brad and he said to start with the .9mm nozzle. He told me of a 400rwhp BMW that uses two .9mm nozzles. Can't have too much water if the spark can handle it.
Steve Kan is flying up tomorrow to install the 2d kit and Brad will be available for Aquamist questions and Richard from Aquamist will be available via phone also,
he's in England.
Brad is a great guy. I highly recommend him for any Aquamist questions and purchase of products.
When I upgraded my SMIC to a ASP(M2) Large racing SMIC, I needed some more plastic tubing due to the new IC was bigger and I did not have enough tubing. Brad sent me many feet of it for free. Here again great support from Brad.
Ken, 59 years young
'94 white, PEP, red leather,
mods: KDR street port & polished,
3mm Hurley racing seals, Hayes upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
Tuned by Steve Kan,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
ASP(M2) Large Racing SMIC with 1630CFM Pull Fan,
Aquamist 2d water injection kit,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Profec B(15&25psi),
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
MSD 6a(3),
Under Pulley(No Air Pump),
Pettit ss resonated mp,
Pettit ss cat-back,
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
Ya, I got my 2s kit from Brad. I'm converting to the 2d kit.
I just talked to Brad and he said to start with the .9mm nozzle. He told me of a 400rwhp BMW that uses two .9mm nozzles. Can't have too much water if the spark can handle it.
Steve Kan is flying up tomorrow to install the 2d kit and Brad will be available for Aquamist questions and Richard from Aquamist will be available via phone also,
he's in England.
Brad is a great guy. I highly recommend him for any Aquamist questions and purchase of products.
When I upgraded my SMIC to a ASP(M2) Large racing SMIC, I needed some more plastic tubing due to the new IC was bigger and I did not have enough tubing. Brad sent me many feet of it for free. Here again great support from Brad.
Ken, 59 years young
'94 white, PEP, red leather,
mods: KDR street port & polished,
3mm Hurley racing seals, Hayes upgraded coolant seals,
Power FC ecu, Commander, Datalogit,
Tuned by Steve Kan,
XS T04e single turbo kit,
ASP(M2) Large Racing SMIC with 1630CFM Pull Fan,
Aquamist 2d water injection kit,
Racelogic Traction Control,
Profec B(15&25psi),
RP Racing fuel pump,
1600cc injectors,
MSD 6a(3),
Under Pulley(No Air Pump),
Pettit ss resonated mp,
Pettit ss cat-back,
Pettit short shifter kit,
LaBreck's bushings,
Evans Coolant
http://nopistons.com/luv94rx7.html
I've been driving my car around the last 2 days with the 90 degree brass elbow pointing the nozzle in the direction of the intake stream as mentioned a page or 2 ago...
OMG...I STRONGLY recommend when you guys set this up you try it. when I had it facing the manifold, no matter how many times I changed the nozzle to different sizes my car would sometimes drown out at higher rpm. I get nothing but very smooth acceleration and it PULLS like a freaking pit bull now. I cant wait to go to the track and get my trap speed. Water injection freaking rules.
OMG...I STRONGLY recommend when you guys set this up you try it. when I had it facing the manifold, no matter how many times I changed the nozzle to different sizes my car would sometimes drown out at higher rpm. I get nothing but very smooth acceleration and it PULLS like a freaking pit bull now. I cant wait to go to the track and get my trap speed. Water injection freaking rules.
were there any down sides to this?
and what are you other mods. is there any more mods that you need to do befor installing? or like me if your car is stock you can just install it. about how much HP do you think you got from doing this?
thanks
and what are you other mods. is there any more mods that you need to do befor installing? or like me if your car is stock you can just install it. about how much HP do you think you got from doing this?
thanks
Originally posted by RX7WEEE
were there any down sides to this?
and what are you other mods. is there any more mods that you need to do befor installing? or like me if your car is stock you can just install it. about how much HP do you think you got from doing this?
thanks
were there any down sides to this?
and what are you other mods. is there any more mods that you need to do befor installing? or like me if your car is stock you can just install it. about how much HP do you think you got from doing this?
thanks
It can be put on a stock car, you still need to keep boost levels to stock because water injection cannot cure the fuel cut the stock ecu gives.
An upgraded ignition is recommended. I still have the stock one, but will upgrade to the HKS shortly. As far as HP Gain, lets say you have 12 PSI with the water injection and 12 psi without...your intake temps with the water injection is 26C and without is 58C, you would think that the car would be faster with the WI, but from what I read thats not the case. while you have cooler air, you also have water in the intake tract taking up space where oxygen would be, they cancel each other out exactly. The point behind the WI is that it will help keep your car from detonating. Also, it is supposed to allow you to run more boost than you can run without it and it allows your timing to be advanced due to the low intake temps. Oh yea, your spark plugs, engine and exhaust will be steam cleaned too.
Dont take my word for it, this is just what I read.
My car is finally done... but have difficulty starting!! I've check my plugs and the Leadings were full of carbon and thick oil... i would assume there are more of that gooeeeeeeeee stuff inside the engine. If W.I. can steam clean this baby then it will give the engine and the plugs more life... dont you think so??
It should help clean the engine, just remember what ever gets clean off the inside of your engine is going to get sent out through the exhuast and right through your turbo. Shouldn't be an issue unless a whole bunch of stuff comes out all at once.
mark
mark
Originally posted by t-von
Would this steam cleaning also keep away carbon buildup?
Would this steam cleaning also keep away carbon buildup?
Oh yea...if you dont have a stainless steel exhaust, it may rust from the inside out from the steam. Something to consider.
yesterday was about 105 in San ramon. I floored my car to 8K RPM and it pulled like it 25 outside. I'm really impressed. My intake temps were 26-32.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=217210
Thread on my Aquamist 2d install.
See my temps drop too.
Thread on my Aquamist 2d install.
See my temps drop too.
Ok, I forgot to post pics I think. Here is a pic of my dual stage water injection setup. Both come on at 8 psi at the moment. You can see the injector in my IC end tank and the one in the elbow (remember the elbow has a 90 degree brass elbow that points the injector toward the hot air in the elbow)
Im going to use it any time I am in WOT. it doesnt get that cold here in ncal though. If I lived in a snow cold climate I would not use it during winter except if I was racing.
I use it all the time now.
I use it all the time now.
there is no kit...its a custom DIY. I took the best features of the DIY system and aquamist and made my own. the recipe is on these 8 pages. total cost will be 130 to 180 based on single or dual set up. If you want a kit get the aquamist, they are really good, but expensive.
Originally posted by 7racer Are you guys going to shut the water injection off during the winter/cold months? Just curious.
If it gets to freezing in your area better drain all the water or something might break if just straight water.
Ken
Yup, thats what I thought about the freezing. But I was really wondering if you guys would have to worry about the tuning? If you tuned for higher boost, leaner conditions with the safety of water...then in winter without it....are you worried about going lean and detonating? Do you plan to have two maps for this condition?
7Racer...
If you tune for WI, I would recommend running it in winter. You dont need to use it unless you are in WOT. You can always get a MSD RPM switch that only activates it after 4500 RPM (or what ever rpm you chose, maybe 4000 so you cover transition) along with your boost pressure switch. That way it comes on when the two conditions are met, over 4500 rpm and selected boost. You dont need to worry about running lean earlier than 4500 rpm anyway.
Im tuned for my IC and plan for now to keep it that way. My system has been reliable since I worked the bugs out. For anyone planning to tune for WI I strongly recommend to wait 2 weeks to a month after your install (of daily driving) to make sure there are no bugs in your system. You dont want to tune for it until you know its reliable. I had some mis-configurations for the first 2.5 weeks that could have fucked up my car.
The reason im not tuning for it? My car has enough fuel for 16 PSI, but I dont trust the stock turbos more than 14 psi. I dont trust 14 PSI on pump gas....Of course 14 psi would run fine if its a cool day...but what if I get a bad tank of gas? So without the WI I would run 12 to have a margin of safety. Now with the Water injection I have no fears to run 14 psi on the street. I have WI to cover an potential for a bad tank of gas. The chances that I get a bad tank of gas AND my water injection failing at the same time are very unlikely. Of course we are talking about a car that likes to detonate at stop signs so WTF do I know.
laters.
If you tune for WI, I would recommend running it in winter. You dont need to use it unless you are in WOT. You can always get a MSD RPM switch that only activates it after 4500 RPM (or what ever rpm you chose, maybe 4000 so you cover transition) along with your boost pressure switch. That way it comes on when the two conditions are met, over 4500 rpm and selected boost. You dont need to worry about running lean earlier than 4500 rpm anyway.
Im tuned for my IC and plan for now to keep it that way. My system has been reliable since I worked the bugs out. For anyone planning to tune for WI I strongly recommend to wait 2 weeks to a month after your install (of daily driving) to make sure there are no bugs in your system. You dont want to tune for it until you know its reliable. I had some mis-configurations for the first 2.5 weeks that could have fucked up my car.
The reason im not tuning for it? My car has enough fuel for 16 PSI, but I dont trust the stock turbos more than 14 psi. I dont trust 14 PSI on pump gas....Of course 14 psi would run fine if its a cool day...but what if I get a bad tank of gas? So without the WI I would run 12 to have a margin of safety. Now with the Water injection I have no fears to run 14 psi on the street. I have WI to cover an potential for a bad tank of gas. The chances that I get a bad tank of gas AND my water injection failing at the same time are very unlikely. Of course we are talking about a car that likes to detonate at stop signs so WTF do I know.
laters.
here is a pic of the aquamist water jet. much smaller and different thread placement. the .9mm was recommended and i have that and a .6. apologies for the pic quality..
Last edited by airborne; Sep 16, 2003 at 11:09 AM.
honestly not a clue. i was told that they run 100psi pumps and was recommended the .9mm. i should be getting the (unbroken) 100 psi pump tomorrow and the tap as well.
i was given the 45psi + Boost pressure = minimum pressure to nozzle and anything greater i'm told makes them more efficient/finer spray.
i have a bunch of different mcmaster nozzles to compare against, but no hard gph numbers.
i was given the 45psi + Boost pressure = minimum pressure to nozzle and anything greater i'm told makes them more efficient/finer spray.
i have a bunch of different mcmaster nozzles to compare against, but no hard gph numbers.


