hi guys,
i'm installing an REW into my 1st gen. was initially planning on going simplified sequential but when i attempted to put the motor into the engine bay the other day, i ran into a snag with the Turbo Control Actuator having clearance issues w/ the 1st gen front subframe. i'm not wanting to cut up the subframe and not really wanting to spend $ going with a good single set up but noticed that in the vacuum diagrams, going non-sequential removes this big actuator.

so some research pointed me to two different ways of going non-sequential.
Don't be a rikki: NON-Sequental
Full non-sequential conversion: Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

so looking at the above 2 instructions, i'm wanting to do a compromise of the two. i know i'll be fully removing the rat's nest and associated vacuum lines and i already have the wastegate ported. what i'm concerned about is boost creep. the car will be set up with an upgraded intercooler, aftermarket intake, aftermarket downpipe, and an open exhaust (muffler only), and pfc. would keeping the turbo control and turbo precontrol flappers in place like in rikki's instructions (instead of removing them) help alleviate boost creep? and if keeping the turbo precontrol actuator in place w/ no vacuums attached, does it keep the flapper in the open position (i'm assuming so as i didn't see anything mentioned in rikki's instructions about it unless i'm reading it incorrectly)? tia.

 

Boost creep is the inability of the wastegate to handle the boost. You can enlarge the wastegate or slow the air flow (i.e. intake/exhaust restriction) but the pre/turbo control valves won't have any effect on controlling boost creep.

 

thanks for the explanation mahjik. wastegate is already ported so if i see boost creep, will keep in mind about restricting the exhaust.

as for the precontrol flapper, w/ the precontrol actuator still in place, the flapper is in the closed position. there's debate whether open or close is better but i'll keep it closed for now since that is the easiest.

 

Do the full conversion. When porting the wastegate, make sure you also shape the inside of the turbine housing leading into it. Makes a big difference. On some cars you will creep no matter what. Your solution then is to tune for higher boost and deal with it, or install a restrictor plate or more restrictive exhaust system.

 

Mine is one of those that creep with ported wastegate, I even remove some material to allow the flapper to open further but it still won't hold 10psi. I just have it tune for 15psi and set the boost controller at 12 and 14.

 

thanks ihor. i went ahead and did the poor man's non-seq as that's the easiest for me right now. i just want to be able to get the widebody running with the least amount of complications...can always improve on it later.

 

If you ever pull the turbos again try porting the runner leading to the wastegate.

 

Hilarious that Rikki's how to still pops up some 10 years after.
He's still hiding from the law.

 

Finger X I don't have to pull the twins off again, but if I do I'll take a look, I believe I port that area too but maybe not enough.