So I just about wrapped up swapping in an unknown year or condition 13b-Rew from a totaled donor car. My car is a 2000 running a stock harness with some tweaks to accommodate the haltech 2000. Stock intake, stock twins, catless midpipe with JASMA catback. The car ran prior to pulling the old engine, but it was pulled due to coolant seal failure. I've got everything put back together and it's giving me trouble starting. I verified that the fuel pump is working, fuel is getting to the rail, the injectors are getting signal from the ecu, and injectors click when I jump the pins with 12v. Verified that plugs are getting spark by pulling the plug wires and zapping the sh*t out of my hand (unintentional). So my next go to was to disconnect the flexible coupling to the intake elbow and spray some starter fluid. Voila, it started. But it will only run for as long as I'm spraying the starting fluid. So this tells me it's surely getting good spark. But I know it was getting fuel because you can see fuel vapors come out the exhaust if I continue to crank, and the plugs get drenched in fuel. I'll add that the car sat with an 1/8th tank of fuel since December. I topped off with 5 gallons of some primo Japanese 98 octane. Any idea where to go next???

 

I'm thinking of low compression because spark+fuel+air and no start probably means low compression. And if you flooded the engine, that would exaggerate the situation by washing off oily layer inside the motor.
Try adding very little AT fluid through spark plug holes, about 10g each rotor. This will create a temporary oil layer on the walls and help with the compression.

 

Let's see a compression test.

Do the test with a proper Rotary Engine compression tester.

You may be super flooded by now.

Injectors could be leaking so you can't get ahead of the flooding.

You may still have bad gas in the system from the stuff that sat too long, notwithstanding adding the high octane stuff.

Test the ISC and TPS.

For my super flooding issue,we ended up removing the ISC completely and let the UIM suck in a ton of air.

The tech then regulated the air intake with his fingers until we got he ISC bolted back on.

We of course first did a deflood which included disconnecting the fuel pump power connector at the tank.

 

And please be aware from 1996 onward the position of the coils was changed. If you are using the USDM FSM as your guide you may be connecting the spark plug leads wrong and/or the short harness to the coils my be attached in the wrong order.

If this is the case, you could blow your motor if you actually do get it to fire.

You need to get the wiring diagram for the year 2000 model and look at the actual wire colours to see if the harness is hooked up correctly

 

I have a question on that for myself. Are you saying that the coils themselves are placed differently on the rack or the "mini" harness that plugs into the coils are different? I'm asking because I bought a new harness for my coils from Japan and don't wanna blow my **** up.

Also to the OP, JASMA isn't a brand. It stands for "Japan Automotive Sports Muffler Association", it's basically a stamp saying it complies with Japan's standards of its legal noise limits and performance. +1 on checking compression

 

Position of coils on rack was changed. Short harness was amended accordingly.

I post up a lot about this on Akagi's wiring manual thread.

Short harness did not used to be listed as a separate part, it was an extension of either the EM or E harness.

In Version 6 (at least) they started listing it as a separate PN number.

 

This was all Mazda reported on the change in an obscure update to the FSM. Lots of people in Japan missed it as well. I have watched techs at shops reach under the TB intake pipe and hook up the leads by feel, based on custom for UDSM. Can be a mistake.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...1157199/page5/

 

Japanese tuner mags got sweaty about it.

 

If it runs on starter fluid it should theoretically run on fuel.
If it were me, I would drain the gas and pump out the old fuel out of the lines.
Deflood it if it hasn't sat for a few days again. Add any oil to the housings through the spark plug holes. I usually do about a 1/2 to 3/4 of the oil cap itself.
Change the spark plugs.
I would also add a second battery or jump box to the car to make sure its really spinning the starter good.
Even if its low compression it should run with this because it ran on starting fluid.

 

Wow I didn't realize how many replies there were. So I swapped to a new fuel rail, and did an OMP delete since I broke one of the lines while swapping rails. Once again tried to crank it to no avail. So I mixed up some fresh jp premium and a little bit of 2 stroke oil to spray directly into the intake. It started right up and idled as long as I continued to spray.

To summarize, I'm getting good spark obviously. I have good enough compression to start within the first 3 cranks while mainlining fuel into the intake. And I'm getting fuel pressure to the rail. So this tells me I'm not getting injector pulse. But that doesn't seem to make sense to me since I'm getting fuel vapor out of the exhaust if I continue to crank. What the hell am I missing.....

 

Okay I just put a 12v wire straight to the fuel pump and it started. So I used a multimeter and checked the plug to the pump, but it has 12v at the big wire. Also checked on my laptop and it says it's sending 12v to the pump while cranking.

 

FIXED: The wire that supplied constant 12v to the fuel pump relay had an inline fuse that was damaged during the engine swap. It must have gotten crushed to where it had enough connection to read 12v via multimeter, however it wasn't able to supply enough current to power the pump. Thanks for all the replies