MazdaRX7.ws

Hi I just got a rx7 from my sister. She owned the car and used it while in college. When she graduated over two years ago she stored it in her boyfriends parents barn. A few weeks ago my sister called me told me if I wanted the car I can have the car or else it was going to get junked.

I went to get the car but it wouldn't start I figured I would take it because it was in good condition. I had the car towed over 700 miles home & I can't get the car to start or find anyone besides mazda to get it running. Everyone tells me they don't want to touch a rotary and mazda wants an arm and leg to even look at it. My wife is really upset with me because I spent $1,873.00 to have the car towed home. Can anyone give me advice or some tips on how to get it started? I did speak to one mechanic and he told me the fuel was probably bad. He told me to try to drain the fuel from the car and put new fuel in and see if it starts. I drained the fuel put new fuel but no luck. Same as before it cranks but doesnt start.

Can anyone help me?

Sindregutt

Check if there`s a spark! If so, does it smell fuel in the engine bay after cranking? Do the sparkplugs get wet?

You can try to tow it to start it.. (i had to do it after the car had just been moved around)... But then you need spark first!

MazdaRX7.ws

OK I had taken off one of the spark plug wires and held it a few milimeters away from the plug itself and had my wife crank it..... YEAH I FELT THE DAMN SHOCK!!! Right thru my hand to be honest with you all!! Didn't feel very strong though, it was a pulse of three shocks i got. I took the line off the engine side after the fuel filter and gas poured out... Gas is present. The exhaust sounds clogged like an animal might be dead in it. This car was in a barn for over 2 years the inside has alot of dead bugs!!! One of my neighbors heard me trying to crank it. He said it sounds like the timing is off or plugs are not fireing in thr right order. Oh sorry it is a 1987 turbo. Not 1 speck of rust anywhere on the entire body and the body is straight. Only thing rusty is the exhaust!!!

RETed

Shoot, if it's a Turbo II, then it's worth it!

When you say "pouring out", do you mean gushing out?

First, verify the spark plugs are firing...
Second, verify that you're getting fuel pressure...

Okay, so the coils are firing cause you got shocked.
Pull all the spark plugs and put the spark plug wire boots back on them.
Put the spark plugs all next to a known, good ground - pop the rubber covers off the shock tower and get the spark plug threads to touch the studs on the upper shock mount.
Crank the car - do you see a spark arcing inside the center of the spark plug?

As for fuel pressure...
I would think after sitting around for 2 years, the fuel pump would be seized solid!
Find the fuel filter located on the firewall on the driver's side.
With a friend's help, first KEY-OFF and then KEY-ON.
Grab the fuel hose that comes off the fuel filter.
Do you feel the hose stiffen?
If so, tell your friend to crank the engine - does the fuel hose stay stiff?
If so, then this is a good sign.

So, if it passes these two tests, at least we know it has spark and it has good fuel pressure.
We don't know if the fuel injectors are firing...

To see if the car will fire, get some "starting fluid" in the spray can.
Any car parts store should carry this.
While cranking, shoot into the snorkel that goes into the stock air (filter) box.
The engine should catch and start for a short while.
If it does catch and fire but dies shortly, most likely the (primary) fuel injectors are not firing.
If you can't get the professionally cleaned, try swapping the secondaries for the primaries and see if this will allow the engine to fire...


-Ted

SureShot

All engines need compression to start.
Rotary engines need a fair amount of cranking speed to build compression.
Also they need an oil film in the chambers to seal & build compression.

I have had success with this:
Pull the leading (bottom) plugs.
Squirt some ATF or WD40 in the plug holes.
Install the plugs.
Make sure the battery is fully charged and you can also back it up with a jump from another car.

Crank it for no more than 10-15 seconds or the gear reduction starter will overheat.
If it does not start with the above, then you're going to need a tow rope.

Rotary_Rocket_87

Try this also. Check all of the fuses, in both the engine bay and the cabin. There are a key few that are nessesary for the car to start. I had to replace a bunch to get my 87 T2 to start.

MazdaRX7.ws

I did have the car running and drive it. The tow company guy pulled me and I poped it in 3rd, when i saw it was idoling I put it into neutral and held it at 2 and a half for over a half hour trying to clean it out. At first if I went below 2 rpms the car would die. Then after getting pulled again and getting it running again I did the same thing. I put it into neutral, reved it this time for like 20 minutes I could bring it down to 1 and a half with out it dying but when I got it down to one and a half it was really hard to bring it back up if i reved it over 5 it would back fire. I don't know if this helps.



Ok the ones under the hood are green where they should be copper and I did not check the ones under the driver kick. I really hope I can get it started it is a sweet car! The rims are so shiny like new. I did take the spark plugs and check the compression by listening as someone turned the key before I had it towed! I can hear an even compression release out of where the plug should be the engine is fine. I am going to check for spark by taking out the plugs and re hooking up the wire(which I think are bad, I got shocked thru the rubber wire! Vey weak shock too) I am going to check again for fuel I already did it it was pouring out but will do again. I will also feel the line coming out of the filet to see if it gets hard when someone cranks it on and off, if so then I will feel it when they sart it to see if it stays hard! The person that told me about using start fluid I am not sure where to spray it in to the intake or air filter.

Everyone so far thank you for all the advice I am going to try it all just might take me a little time. I will keep you all posted. Oh one stupid question, if the first cat after the turbo is clogged completley can that make it not start?

RETed

Okay, if it already fired and revved, that's good and bad.
I would get a compression gauge and actually look at how high the pulses go.
Firing a rotary engine that sat for a while not always a good idea.
The shock of running a rotary engine after it had sat around for that long could damage the internals.
The compression numbers will tell you if you got stuck / damaged seals or if the internal seals are okay.

On the good side, if it did run, then all the critical components are working.
This is just a matter of getting the car to crank, fire, and idle.
Check the spark plugs - if they are dirty or wet, this is a bad sign - good idea to swap out for a new set right now.
Also, might as well swap out the spark plug wires also - NGK's are recommended as a good, cheap stock replacement.

GET THE OLD GAS OUT OF THERE ASAP!
There is a 14mm bolt that allows you to drain all the old gas out.
Be careful how you drain and store / dispose of that stuff!
All the car might need is some fresh gasoline.
Also, when draining the old gas, check to see if there are signs of rust / sediment in the gas tank while draining.
If you see signs of rust, it might be a good idea to look for a replacement gas tank.
It's a good idea to replace all the fuel filters.

Good idea to replace the oil and oil filter too!
Good idea to replace the coolant and flush the cooling system too!

Good luck!


-Ted

MazdaRX7.ws

Okay RETed I did swap out the gas and I just changed the plugs when I swapped the gas. The old plugs didn't really have any carbon depositis(no white chunks) on them they just looked all fouled out(thick black on them like crushed charcoal. Thank you for all the help all.

MazdaRX7.ws

I strongly believe that the cat after the turbo on this car is completely clogged. If it is would that prevent it from starting and running properly due to no releif of pressure and to much back pressure?

blackfcTII

Like said earlier check the compression with a gauge. Try putting a teaspoon or so oil in the rotar housing through the spark plug holes. The car has been sittin for a while and the seals are probably all dried up. Putting hoil straight in the will bring those seals right back. I tried the sound test on mine and it sounded alright but when I hooked up the gauge I only had 30 in front and 60 in the rear. Your supposed to have around a 100, front and back

MazdaRX7.ws

Where can I get a guage to check the compression and what kind of gauge?

Cwaters

Well, rotary engines have a special compression checker but any normal comprssion tester (available at your parts store or Sears or really anyplace that sells tools) will work. You hold the pressure relief valve open and watch the bounces. You're looking for even bounces.


CW

MazdaRX7.ws

Okay how high should the peaks of the bounce reach also if i buy one of these compression meters how high of a number rating should i make sure it has?

MazdaRX7.ws

Yes I mean it was pouring out not gushing, kinda flowing out, the car was off when i disconnected the hose from the engine side after the fuel filter.

RETed

If it gets close to 100, it's good.
If it's over 100, that's GREAT!

If it's under 60, the engine is no good.


-Ted

RETed

That's normal.
It's just siphoning off of the gas tank due to it's position being lower than the gas tank itself.


-Ted

MazdaRX7.ws

But that wouldnt mean that the fuel pump is working right because the car was off when I disconnected the fuel line???

Dmonhunter

netfreakz, if your still having this prob, let me know, I have extensive knowledge of feul delivery systems, and i might be able to help--email : ready2goagain42@yahoo.com
I believe from what amount of time has passed, that youve resolved it, but Ill help if you still have probs

redlecire6662000

hey blacfc tII your only supposed to have about 80 to 85 psi of compression and if your only gettin 30 then you seriously need to look at a new engine

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

80 is near bare minimum.

30 isn't "look at a new engine"... it is "get a new engine". Unless something is wrong with how you tested it.