I just got my FD two days ago, so I’m still really new to this car. Been doing as much research as I can on these forums.

Anyways, drove the car to work and on my lunch break and didn’t have an issue. Went to leave work, and the car wouldn’t crank. Relays click when I key cycle, lights dim when I try to crank it, so I think the starter is getting power. Turns signals, wipers and headlights all work, so I think the ignition is getting power.

Tried to jump the car, it didn’t even try to start. Took the battery to get tested, and the battery is fine. Checked all the fuses and relays, and I didn’t find any blown ones.

Bump started the car, and drove it all the way home without a hiccup. But it still won’t crank. Any advice as to how I should go about trouble shooting it?

 

Do a search using "ignition + switch + starter + wiring" and find a post about "click/click/start" problem. That post and other describe the wiring path from ignition switch to starter. Part of the circuit goes though a part that determines if the clutch state or security state or other stuff should prevent sending the 12V to the starter. Sorry I don't remember more details.

 

I did read one of those threads. It doesn’t sound quite like my problem, as I can’t get the car to start using the starter at all

however I did remember reading about it telling you to jump one part of the harness and to test, I’ll go back and check out the post. I had someone in a Facebook group link me a troubleshooting guide. I’m probably gonna pull the starter off, bench test it and check for power at the harness

 

Maybe the clutch safety switch. Check to see if the plunger is stuck or broken.

 

I’ll look into that, thanks! Does the css directly cut power to the starter and nothing else?

 

Yep. The "go starter go" wire goes from the ignition switch, through the clutch switch, through the security system relay, down to the starter.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-relay-872841/

That thread covers that topic in depth.

Most common thing is if you see little bits of rubbery plastic on your floor mat that's the rubber pad for the clutch switch. You can get stick-on pads at Lowe's that will work great, I've been running those for ages.

Dale

 

Edit

 

I did do some reading on the clutch switches this morning and learned that I can jump them to check if that’s my malfunction. After work today, I’ll check the condition of the rubber pad and I’ll try to jump interlock switch. Thank you!

 

thanks for the link. I did find and read through that thread earlier this morning as well, and there was some useful information. I’m starting to think now that the problem may just be my rubber pad. The last time I started the car on its own during my lunch break the other day, I recall seeing sticky rubbery pieces on my floor mat, as mentioned in an earlier comment. I thought something was stuck to my foot, but now it makes sense

 

BINGO. Just look up under there, you will see it.

When the rubber pad disintegrates the "peg" of the clutch switch has nothing to hit. There's actually a hole in the clutch pedal where that pad goes and the plunger for the clutch switch sticks through the hole.

Go to Lowe's in the hardware section. Look for some stick-on rubber feet for chair or table legs. I think 3/4" or so is fine. Stick it on the pedal and you're done.

Dale

 

Thanks so much for bringing this to my attention! Once I get home from work, I'll take a look under there and see if that's my issue. Really hoping it's just that simple.

Loving my FD so far. I had a poster of one on my wall as a kid for the longest time. Even if it never started again, I'd be content with it just sitting in my garage so I could stare at it all day

 

Update: I went back to the last spot that the car started on its own and found this on the ground. i pulled them off of the floor mat and threw them. This look like the oem rubber pad?

 

Yep. But IIRC NLA from Mazda. Thankfully I’m told Nissan used the same pad if you’re not particular about color….

 

Yes, the Nissan part is compatible. I may just run to the hardware store and get a stick-on rubber pad, like mentioned earlier. I’m gonna try and depress the plunger with my finger and start the car when I get home. Will update accordingly. Thanks for the help

 

Do both the clutch and brake pedal switches...they usually go out at the same time (in my case, 1 week after the other went). The same Nissan part works on both.

 

Thanks for the response. Previous owner replaced the pad on the brake switch last year with the Nissan part

 

Update: when I got home from work, I checked and there was no rubber pad in the clutch pedal assembly. Pressed the plunger on the interlock switch down and turned the key, the car fired right up.

I took it for a drive around the block, and my check engine light came on. I haven’t had a chance to pull the code, because I had to leave town right after my drive. But, I noticed the CEL would only come on as I built boost above 3k rpm. I key cycled while I was driving to turn off the CEL. Light would stay off while cruising. As soon as I rolled on the throttle, the light popped up again

 

Glad that was it! Yeah that picture is the old pad.

Pull the codes and see what you have, you are guessing until you find out. Read up on getting the codes - this is an old car, you don't use an OBD-2 reader or anything, you jumper 2 pins in the diagnostic box and count flashes on the check engine light.

Dale

 

Thanks for the response, Dale. I pulled the code, and the only code is 06 for the speed sensor signal. The speedometer is still functioning, though.

 

Not sure why it would throw that code. That's really out of the ordinary. May want to read the troubleshooting for that code in the shop manual.

Dale

 

Hmm, okay, I'll take a look at the shop manual.

Driving the car last night, I had it shut off on me while driving and had to get it towed home. I narrowed it down to the fuel pump either not pressurizing or not working. I pulled the sending unit out of the car on the side of the road, and took the pump out. o-ring seal looked fine. The pump is a new walbro 350 as of last year. Fuse was fine. I tested the pump outside of the car, and did not witness it engage when I cranked the car over. Fuel feed line was dry when I pulled it off. After work today, I plan to check the fuel pump using a jumper wire in the diagnostics port, then pull the whole sending unit out and test it directly with 12v power to see if the pump is actually functioning or not. I read through the entire thread regarding the pump rewire. If for some reason, the pump functions outside of the car but not inside of the car, do you suggest I do the pump rewire?

Thanks,

Nick