New Rx7 owner -what type of Oil?
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Canada
New Rx7 owner -what type of Oil?
First off I was told to use shell NoN synthetic and now I see a dude with a rx7 for sale that used synthetic Mobil1
which one is correct ?
By the way I live in Canada if it makes any difference
which one is correct ?
By the way I live in Canada if it makes any difference
I'd suggest you do a search for a more thorough answer than the one I'm about to provide (this topic has been beaten to death here).
At the end of the day the type of oil you use is really up to you. So long as you maintain your car properly, and change the oil regularly it shouldn't make much (if any) difference. There are a few circumstances (specifically related to turbo's, like the BNR twin turbo, that have carbon seals, or for breaking in a new engine) where mineral oil is required. Otherwise it's all up to you.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is really popular among the synthetic users, Castrol GTX is pretty good if you want to stick with Mineral.
The search function is your friend.
At the end of the day the type of oil you use is really up to you. So long as you maintain your car properly, and change the oil regularly it shouldn't make much (if any) difference. There are a few circumstances (specifically related to turbo's, like the BNR twin turbo, that have carbon seals, or for breaking in a new engine) where mineral oil is required. Otherwise it's all up to you.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is really popular among the synthetic users, Castrol GTX is pretty good if you want to stick with Mineral.
The search function is your friend.
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I'd suggest you do a search for a more thorough answer than the one I'm about to provide (this topic has been beaten to death here).
At the end of the day the type of oil you use is really up to you. So long as you maintain your car properly, and change the oil regularly it shouldn't make much (if any) difference. There are a few circumstances (specifically related to turbo's, like the BNR twin turbo, that have carbon seals, or for breaking in a new engine) where mineral oil is required. Otherwise it's all up to you.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is really popular among the synthetic users, Castrol GTX is pretty good if you want to stick with Mineral.
The search function is your friend.
At the end of the day the type of oil you use is really up to you. So long as you maintain your car properly, and change the oil regularly it shouldn't make much (if any) difference. There are a few circumstances (specifically related to turbo's, like the BNR twin turbo, that have carbon seals, or for breaking in a new engine) where mineral oil is required. Otherwise it's all up to you.
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic is really popular among the synthetic users, Castrol GTX is pretty good if you want to stick with Mineral.
The search function is your friend.
Funny thing you should post this, I just got a new rx7 1 week ago and need to change the oil. If anyone in the know reads this I am interested in knowing what they think of using royal purple or red line in the engine as well as transmission and dif.
theres like a long list of "what oil" threads in the search. here's one of them, covers some other fluids as well.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801575
general consensus/common preferred brands:
castrol gtx = good conventional motor
royal purp = good synthetic motor
redline = good syn motor/diff/tranny
neo = good diff/tranny
amsoil = severe gear(diff)
motor - depends on temp. 10w-40 , 20w-50 are common. but everyone uses what they prefer normally
tranny/diff - 75w-90 / 80w-90
here's an excerpt that answers one of the OP's questions:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801575
general consensus/common preferred brands:
castrol gtx = good conventional motor
royal purp = good synthetic motor
redline = good syn motor/diff/tranny
neo = good diff/tranny
amsoil = severe gear(diff)
motor - depends on temp. 10w-40 , 20w-50 are common. but everyone uses what they prefer normally
tranny/diff - 75w-90 / 80w-90
here's an excerpt that answers one of the OP's questions:
Depends on the temperatures in your area.
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50
As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards (or better) should be fine.
In my area, I see winter temps in the low 30's when starting in the morning, so I use 10W30 in my FC in the winter, but in summer I only use 20W50. because I never see temps below the 50's when starting.
Using the correct thickness will ensure long bearing life. Too thin and you wear though the main bearings as well as loose shear strength.
In starting and operating temperatures below 20F, use 5W30
In starting and operating temperatures between 0F and 80F, use 10W30.
In starting and operating temperatures above 30F, use 20W50
As far as brand any good quality oil that meets the API SL or SM standards (or better) should be fine.
In my area, I see winter temps in the low 30's when starting in the morning, so I use 10W30 in my FC in the winter, but in summer I only use 20W50. because I never see temps below the 50's when starting.
Using the correct thickness will ensure long bearing life. Too thin and you wear though the main bearings as well as loose shear strength.
save your money and use conventional engine oil, some people ignore it and burn money on synthetic but that is their choice.
i have yet to see a rotary with any sort of lubrication issues that arose from either type of oil, the only thing that may save you is whether the oil leaves the engine quicker by a broken oil cooler line in either conventional or synthetic flavors to buy you that .1 second before the bearings sieze before shutting the motor off.
i have yet to test the above and do not plan to, so feel free to test either of your own accord.
i have yet to see a rotary with any sort of lubrication issues that arose from either type of oil, the only thing that may save you is whether the oil leaves the engine quicker by a broken oil cooler line in either conventional or synthetic flavors to buy you that .1 second before the bearings sieze before shutting the motor off.
i have yet to test the above and do not plan to, so feel free to test either of your own accord.
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Joined: Mar 2009
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From: okinawa, Japan
I've used Castol GTX 20w-50 for the longest time now... keep in mind okinawa is hot as hell the reason for the heavy weight.. I've also made it a habit to change my oil often like once a month its a bit of an overkill but i proud to say i've never had any engine problems
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