mkd

iTrader: (8)

Just finished a rebuild and am putting the motor back in. This is my second time doing this. The first time was a bitch but worked out. This time, things just don't want to line up.

The motor mounts are equal height from the subframe (level) when the engine is elevated with the hoist. When the motor is shifted as far back in the engine bay as possible before the pressure plate contacts the tranny input shaft, and lowered, the bottom vertical motor mount bolts rest on the subframe .5-1" in front of the large circular cutouts they need to drop into. I think they need to shift back a little more after dropping into the cutouts before sliding into their holes.

So the motor can't go back more, and it can't be lowered more.

Am I missing something? Is there a specific technique people use to get the mounts & tranny lined up?

FDAUTO

iTrader: (4)

You're doing this with the trans in the car... you're using stock or aftermarket mounts? You may need to lift the trans and angle the motor to get it to work. Personally, I tried this once and got SUPER annoyed and gave up. It's faster and easier to drop the trans and then pull the motor. Then for install, you drop the motor in and lift the trans onto it.

Either way, try tilting the motor backwards so the crank points more up and then lift the trans so it's also more up. If you're using aftermarket mounts then put the pucks in the circular section of the subframe and then you will set the motor down on them using the long bolt to get them to line up.

mkd

iTrader: (8)

MS mounts, so basically stock.

I forgot to mention that I have the front of the tranny raised with a tranny jack as far as it will go before it hits the top of the tunnel and starts to lift the car off of the front jack stands (!). The car is raised equal distance off the ground front & rear on four jack stands.

I was thinking of angling the motor like you mentioned using a ratchet strap between the front pully & hoist. I could also get more of the same angle by jacking up the rear of the car a little...

I feel like lowering/dropping the subframe would be easier than pulling the tranny... I've done the subframe once and the tranny several times.

mkd

iTrader: (8)

Edit: deleted duplicate.

OyvindRX-7

Just went through the same.
I loosened the front shocks and then dropped the subframe down enough to clear the motor mounts.
You will need to disconnect the steering shaft as well.
Make sure to mark it well and put a lock on the steering wheel as it will rotate when you disconnect it.

theunitedforge

dont use elite rotary mounts, at all costs lmao

installed in my swap less than 1500 miles and they are dented up already... insane actually, dangerous even.

Ill pull pics and post them in a bit but yea, those "billet mounts" are basically aluminum alloy that can't handle stress at all.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I have a feeling you have it sorted by now, but some thoughts -

- Jack up the trans as high as it will go. Get the motor on the trans first then drop the motor down onto the mounts.

- You will need a pry bar at times and good old "grab the engine and shake it' to get things in place/lined up.

- I've had something similar happen I think with the motor mounts not getting up and over into the pocked in the subframe they fit into. I think it's a case of pry bar and jostling the motor around to get it over that lip. There's not a bunch keeping it going farther back, just get it past that point.

I will also say I've done engine installs with the trans in the car and pulling the whole thing. If I'm just doing the engine and that's it I don't pull the trans - messing with the PPF, draining the trans fluid, removing the shifter, all that jazz just eats up a lot of time. At most for me with engine on the hoist ready to go in and then engine sitting on the mounts and hoist rolling away is probably 20 minutes. Really helps to have 1-2 helpers to spot, work the hoist, etc.

Dale

mkd

iTrader: (8)

Here's what I did which was very easy.

• If you have a Banzai transmission crossmember, remove the two bottom bolts.
• Jack up the transmission, being careful not to lift the front of the car off of jack stands if it's on them.
• Remove the front swaybar & mounts.
• Loosen, but don't remove, the 6 bolts fastening the engine subframe to the frame.

You can now pull the rear of the subframe down 1-1.5" allowing plenty of clearance to align the engine+transmission and get the motor mounts into the holes in the subframe.

I found this to be very fast and easy once I tried it.