Last attempt before rebuild, advice?
Hey I've posted a few threads here and there on getting this car started. Back story is i got the car 2 years ago. Car had supposedly 3k miles on rebuilt half bridge port. The person didn't know what they were doing and had a cooked harness and fuel and oil leaks. I fixed the leaks and put a turbo on (No turbo when i got car) and got it running. It seemed to run pretty smooth. Here is a video.
At this point in time i decided i could pull the motor and fix the burnt paint in the bay and the harness. I went ahead and painted the bay, put the harness back in and started it up a few months down the road again. (skip to 50 seconds to hear with exhaust and everything hooked up)
So verifying i had everything in place correctly, i pulled the harness and sent it with a spare to be wired with unburnt plugs and delete all unnecessary plugs for what i have deleted and for the pfc.
I had to leave town for a little over a year and came back to a harness, and car. I drained fuel, added some oil to the crankcase, cleaned out the fuel lines and tried to start it and nothing. I fixed a few things with help of people in the forums (security relay,map wasn't reading) and the wires on the harness didn't match the fsm colors so i had to trace it back to the ecu and check ohms to get some of the plugs in the right place (fuel temp colors were water temp, injector plugs)
The harness i got back still has bosch plugs on the harness and i have oem injectors in it to see if i could get it running smooth before going for bigger. So at this point in time the only injectors plugged into the harness are primaries (they were backwards as well at first) and i got the car started on lots of starter fluid with the intake elbow off. I have tested to see spark, and fuel coming out of injectors already. The tps is the only thing thats off now. The compression was around 60, but I've read that cold compression shouldn't be taken seriously and especially on a motor that was sitting.
Here is video with the plugs actually backwards started on catalyst.
Tomorrow I'm going to attempt one last time. Im going to solder new injector plugs on to run 1680's and 725's. Im going to fix the tps, and hook up the intake to the intercooler, change spark plugs. I added some atf into the crankcase earlier to see if "the trick" works. Hopefully it starts, i can idle it until its warm, and i can give it a few hard revs to try to free up anything that might be stuck in the motor and test compression once more. If not, i guess its rebuild time.
Any criticism accepted, thank you.
At this point in time i decided i could pull the motor and fix the burnt paint in the bay and the harness. I went ahead and painted the bay, put the harness back in and started it up a few months down the road again. (skip to 50 seconds to hear with exhaust and everything hooked up)
So verifying i had everything in place correctly, i pulled the harness and sent it with a spare to be wired with unburnt plugs and delete all unnecessary plugs for what i have deleted and for the pfc.
I had to leave town for a little over a year and came back to a harness, and car. I drained fuel, added some oil to the crankcase, cleaned out the fuel lines and tried to start it and nothing. I fixed a few things with help of people in the forums (security relay,map wasn't reading) and the wires on the harness didn't match the fsm colors so i had to trace it back to the ecu and check ohms to get some of the plugs in the right place (fuel temp colors were water temp, injector plugs)
The harness i got back still has bosch plugs on the harness and i have oem injectors in it to see if i could get it running smooth before going for bigger. So at this point in time the only injectors plugged into the harness are primaries (they were backwards as well at first) and i got the car started on lots of starter fluid with the intake elbow off. I have tested to see spark, and fuel coming out of injectors already. The tps is the only thing thats off now. The compression was around 60, but I've read that cold compression shouldn't be taken seriously and especially on a motor that was sitting.
Here is video with the plugs actually backwards started on catalyst.
Tomorrow I'm going to attempt one last time. Im going to solder new injector plugs on to run 1680's and 725's. Im going to fix the tps, and hook up the intake to the intercooler, change spark plugs. I added some atf into the crankcase earlier to see if "the trick" works. Hopefully it starts, i can idle it until its warm, and i can give it a few hard revs to try to free up anything that might be stuck in the motor and test compression once more. If not, i guess its rebuild time.
Any criticism accepted, thank you.
If the motor has good compression, there's absolutely no need to tear into it.
Sounds most likely that the "rebuilt" harness isn't all it's cracked up to be. Or, something is hooked up way wrong.
Do a compression test on the motor, if it passes, continue troubleshooting.
Dale
Sounds most likely that the "rebuilt" harness isn't all it's cracked up to be. Or, something is hooked up way wrong.
Do a compression test on the motor, if it passes, continue troubleshooting.
Dale
If assume you know you need to run resistors inline with those secondary injectors?
Verify you have fuel and that the system isn't air bound. Check to make sure you have spark which it probably has if it started on the starter fluid.
Sounds like a fuel issue. Do you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on before cranking it?
If not check the fuse for the pump.
If fuse is ok and you don't hear it prime or you replace a burned up fuse and it still won't prime you could have burned up the bulkhead connector at the tank.
Verify you have fuel and that the system isn't air bound. Check to make sure you have spark which it probably has if it started on the starter fluid.
Sounds like a fuel issue. Do you hear the pump prime when you turn the key on before cranking it?
If not check the fuse for the pump.
If fuse is ok and you don't hear it prime or you replace a burned up fuse and it still won't prime you could have burned up the bulkhead connector at the tank.
Thanks for prompt responses.
I had tested compression couple days ago, i said above that it was around 50-60psi on both rotors. Completely cold though.
Here is fuel and spark test. Resistors are on the harness now. Pump primes, it was locked up until i jumped it and now it primes off key turn.
I had tested compression couple days ago, i said above that it was around 50-60psi on both rotors. Completely cold though.
Here is fuel and spark test. Resistors are on the harness now. Pump primes, it was locked up until i jumped it and now it primes off key turn.
Your ground wire should not be between the throttle body and UIM, should be a gasket there and it will never seal with the ground mounted there. I have no idea what is globbed all over the primary rail, clean it off and make sure the proper grommets and spacer are installed.
Compression will never come up 50-60 psi, however if you did not do the compression test correctly (by holding the throttle open) it will read lower. You can also get very low readings of the engine is exceedingly flooded. If you have the space you can try pop starting the car.
Compression will never come up 50-60 psi, however if you did not do the compression test correctly (by holding the throttle open) it will read lower. You can also get very low readings of the engine is exceedingly flooded. If you have the space you can try pop starting the car.
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Your ground wire should not be between the throttle body and UIM, should be a gasket there and it will never seal with the ground mounted there. I have no idea what is globbed all over the primary rail, clean it off and make sure the proper grommets and spacer are installed.
Compression will never come up 50-60 psi, however if you did not do the compression test correctly (by holding the throttle open) it will read lower. You can also get very low readings of the engine is exceedingly flooded. If you have the space you can try pop starting the car.
Compression will never come up 50-60 psi, however if you did not do the compression test correctly (by holding the throttle open) it will read lower. You can also get very low readings of the engine is exceedingly flooded. If you have the space you can try pop starting the car.
I tested compression with the throttle open as well.
Make sure yours leading and trailing wires are are correctly connected from correct coils to correct plugs.
So what ECU are you running? Ok I see PFC.
Did you change the injector sizes on the secondaries in the ECU? Prob won't matter for starting it but running secondaries without the resistors can burn up the injector drivers.
It could be as simple as adding more or removing fuel to the map. It's also possible you have some things on your harness still mixed up. If the wire colors don't match and you have cut/de pinned connectors and replaced them around the harness I would be suspect and recheck the harness and make sure you have the proper parts of the harness going to all the correct locations.
There are so many things it could be at this point you just need to really dig into the wiring diagram and get methodical on it. You can also look up the resistance ranges on all of the sensors in the car and test them with a meter.
This process will eventually allow you to find the problem once you are completely committed. This process of troubleshooting with get you very acquainted with all of the systems in the car and will serve you in the future.
So what ECU are you running? Ok I see PFC.
Did you change the injector sizes on the secondaries in the ECU? Prob won't matter for starting it but running secondaries without the resistors can burn up the injector drivers.
It could be as simple as adding more or removing fuel to the map. It's also possible you have some things on your harness still mixed up. If the wire colors don't match and you have cut/de pinned connectors and replaced them around the harness I would be suspect and recheck the harness and make sure you have the proper parts of the harness going to all the correct locations.
There are so many things it could be at this point you just need to really dig into the wiring diagram and get methodical on it. You can also look up the resistance ranges on all of the sensors in the car and test them with a meter.
This process will eventually allow you to find the problem once you are completely committed. This process of troubleshooting with get you very acquainted with all of the systems in the car and will serve you in the future.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; Nov 23, 2015 at 08:38 PM.
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