Heavy smoking on deacel
Heavy smoking on deacel
So, did some dyno pulls today for dyno day and it smokes heavily on deacel, I've included some videos so let me know if it's something up with the motor.
Motor is stock with 52500 miles on it. Let me know what this could be, I do plan on refreshing the motor this winter.
Pulls were done on pump gas at 12 psi, with Aspec 500r kit. Made 350 to the wheels. AFR's goes to 11.5 and leans out a bit to 11.8 toward redline.
Pull 1
http://youtu.be/s6ioBSJX28o
Pull 2
http://youtu.be/8v1Vqh00jmc
Pull 3
http://youtu.be/l5_7clE38Ro
Motor is stock with 52500 miles on it. Let me know what this could be, I do plan on refreshing the motor this winter.
Pulls were done on pump gas at 12 psi, with Aspec 500r kit. Made 350 to the wheels. AFR's goes to 11.5 and leans out a bit to 11.8 toward redline.
Pull 1
http://youtu.be/s6ioBSJX28o
Pull 2
http://youtu.be/8v1Vqh00jmc
Pull 3
http://youtu.be/l5_7clE38Ro
I would not call that heavy, you should not be overly alarmed. I have had cars on the dyno that filled the entire shop with so much smoke you could not see or breath. This is usually caused by the wrong size (or none) oil restrictor on the turbo feed line. When it is the engine building excess crank case pressure, you can cut down on the decel smoke by installing an oil catch can. For a quick fix on the dyno we just remove the oil filler cap to allow the pressure to vent.
Just to echo what others have said, not bad at all. My FD had blown stock twins and it would smoke nearly a half quart of oil every time I left off after being in boost- literally like a steam train, it was a lot of smoke and would smoke out the road.
What you have isn't really an issue. if it bothers you, you can take Banzai's advice and install a catch can to vent the positive crankcase pressure.
What you have isn't really an issue. if it bothers you, you can take Banzai's advice and install a catch can to vent the positive crankcase pressure.
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I would not call that heavy, you should not be overly alarmed. I have had cars on the dyno that filled the entire shop with so much smoke you could not see or breath. This is usually caused by the wrong size (or none) oil restrictor on the turbo feed line. When it is the engine building excess crank case pressure, you can cut down on the decel smoke by installing an oil catch can. For a quick fix on the dyno we just remove the oil filler cap to allow the pressure to vent.
Check your premix ratio as well. When my car was tuned the first time, I put a little too much Marvel in, it was pretty damn noticeable. And yes, as others have mentioned, I wouldn't call that excessive.
500R huh? Time for a rebuild, port and water injection!!
. Doing the same myself....
Very clean car btw!
500R huh? Time for a rebuild, port and water injection!!
. Doing the same myself....Very clean car btw!
yep, a small amount of smoke isn't a huge issue.
the turbo needs oil otherwise the bearings will cook, a small amount of blowby isn't going to really hurt anything versus too small of a restrictor cutting the turbo oil pressure down too far compromising the turbo.
the turbo needs oil otherwise the bearings will cook, a small amount of blowby isn't going to really hurt anything versus too small of a restrictor cutting the turbo oil pressure down too far compromising the turbo.
Turbo tech 101 http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html
Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.
This brings up another issue I see all the time. Incorrect return line sizing or installation. I have actually seen cars that the return line was looped and kinked, causing excessive oil smoke from pressure build up. A -10an line works well, but it needs to be able to flow back to the engine.
A $12 restrictor will save the turbo oil seals. The -4an restrictor with the .035" hole does the job for most Garrett turbos installed on 13B & 20B engines.

Here is a troubleshooting chart directly from Garrett that covers multiple smoking issues.
A $12 restrictor will save the turbo oil seals.
generally the hitachi's are internally restricted, admittedly i haven't torn down a set of twins since it's futile to attempt to rebuild them.
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