grounding locations
grounding locations
I have seen the Damian Hyper ground diagram, however, I also want to know what all have people done on the grounding on the FD? Where are the most important grounding point on our car? advise needed.
A respected RX-7 mechanic says that no car leaves his shop without the following simple modifications done to the electrical system. All are done with 8 or 10 gauge wire. You can secure the wire to the battery terminals using the terminal clamps, or you can get clamps which have provisions for extra wiring--as you might find with a complex auto sound system.
Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter--the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter--the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
I am doing the points from Damian's diagram, and I am confused to where engine block ground A and B are. What do I have to take off to see those points.
And for that parrallel line from alternator to positive terminal, what gauge should that wire at least be.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=hyperground
And for that parrallel line from alternator to positive terminal, what gauge should that wire at least be.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=hyperground
Last edited by KungFuMonkey; Nov 8, 2006 at 09:18 PM.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I replaced the one on the firewall to the extension manifold engine hoist bracket with one of those overpriced fancy gold cables (paid for it being premade). This is the same wire location that Pettit Racing recomends replacing and that they used to give you a free replacement for. Check and/or replace the one under the car from cat to body. I've seen a few cars misssing that one.
Originally Posted by pinkrx7
Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal.
I think I used some red 8 gauge that I had laying around for the (+) battery to alternator. And I agree with GoRacer, the ground from the exhaust to chassis is probably important for the O2 sensor.
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