car shut off while driving??????
12-21-06, 01:54 AM
#1
car shut off while driving??????
i got done with my nonsequential mod today and went out for the maiden voyage... well, after making sure everthing was cool, i hit it in first gear and got a little wheelhop, hit second and it wheel hopped slightly and the car just turned off...
i thought that maybe the battery came disconnected, but all the electrical stuff works fine. i checked every fuse and they are all good. its almost like the coils or injectors came unplugged or something, but they are all plugged in!
i thought maybe the last thing i should check is the fuel pump relay... other than that, i'm stumped. what do you guys think?
i thought that maybe the battery came disconnected, but all the electrical stuff works fine. i checked every fuse and they are all good. its almost like the coils or injectors came unplugged or something, but they are all plugged in!
i thought maybe the last thing i should check is the fuel pump relay... other than that, i'm stumped. what do you guys think?
12-21-06, 10:23 AM
#2
Freudian slip
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Do you mean it just won't start or it is totally dead with no power anywhere?
We can't help you if you don't give us all the symptoms
I would start by looking at the EGI relay and fuse and all the other fuses and relays under the hood - sounds like a bad connection or short
We can't help you if you don't give us all the symptoms
I would start by looking at the EGI relay and fuse and all the other fuses and relays under the hood - sounds like a bad connection or short
12-21-06, 10:45 AM
#3
HOW TO PEP UP YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
A respected RX-7 mechanic says that no car leaves his shop without the following simple modifications done to the electrical system. All are done with 8 or 10 gauge wire. You can secure the wire to the battery terminals using the terminal clamps, or you can get clamps which have provisions for extra wiring--as you might find with a complex auto sound system.
Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter--the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
hahaha used this paste twice in 5 min... taken from fd3s.net
maybe you have a grounding issue.. if not test your relays as per FSM
A respected RX-7 mechanic says that no car leaves his shop without the following simple modifications done to the electrical system. All are done with 8 or 10 gauge wire. You can secure the wire to the battery terminals using the terminal clamps, or you can get clamps which have provisions for extra wiring--as you might find with a complex auto sound system.
Run two new ground wires. One goes from the engine to the negative battery terminal. The other goes from a bolt or bare-spot on the chassis to the negative battery terminal. The additional ground paths will provide a little cushion for the stock wiring which is marginal when new. This has been known to solve low voltage problems at the cigarette lighter--the kind that gives you low voltage warnings on cell phones or Valentine One radar detectors. The V-1 detectors will show a false "laser alert" if you try to power it with low voltage.
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
hahaha used this paste twice in 5 min... taken from fd3s.net
maybe you have a grounding issue.. if not test your relays as per FSM
12-21-06, 10:55 AM
#4
development
Originally Posted by pinkrx7
HOW TO PEP UP YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
Run one new wire between the alternator output (the wire secured by a nut) and the positive terminal of the battery. This parallels the stock wire and makes it "easier" for the alternator to recharge the battery. With both these modifications, you should see at least 13.8 volts at on your dashboard volt meter when at idle (but without other electrical loads).
2) electricity flows like water...path of least resistance. IF you parallel the ALT output...MOST (if not all) of the electrons will flow thru the wire that has the path of least resistance.
12-21-06, 12:52 PM
#6
uhh ok.
so how do i check the fuel pump relay? i checked the fuse, its all good.
everything electrical works, as i said in my first post.
so how do i check the fuel pump relay? i checked the fuse, its all good.
Originally Posted by BOTTLEFED
Do you mean it just won't start or it is totally dead with no power anywhere?
We can't help you if you don't give us all the symptoms
I would start by looking at the EGI relay and fuse and all the other fuses and relays under the hood - sounds like a bad connection or short
We can't help you if you don't give us all the symptoms
I would start by looking at the EGI relay and fuse and all the other fuses and relays under the hood - sounds like a bad connection or short
everything electrical works, as i said in my first post.
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12-21-06, 04:47 PM
#12
yes it turns over and the battery works fine and has a full charge..
i was also wondering about the inertia switch. does anybody know if our cars have one?
checked all fuses, they're all good.
i was also wondering about the inertia switch. does anybody know if our cars have one?
checked all fuses, they're all good.
Last edited by jacobcartmill; 12-21-06 at 04:57 PM.
12-22-06, 04:27 AM
#14
ok guys, figured it out
when the car wheel hopped, the wires for the MOP and the CAS fell onto the main pulley and got broken...
so i repaired all of them and was still getting a bad MOP code, so i assumed it was dead. i replaced the MOP and got rid of the code, but the ECU is stuck in limp mode...
does anyone have any idea what codes can cause limp mode?
when the car wheel hopped, the wires for the MOP and the CAS fell onto the main pulley and got broken...
so i repaired all of them and was still getting a bad MOP code, so i assumed it was dead. i replaced the MOP and got rid of the code, but the ECU is stuck in limp mode...
does anyone have any idea what codes can cause limp mode?
12-22-06, 03:11 PM
#19
plugged the solenoids in and all i'm left with is code 05, which is knock sensor. can a knock sensor set off ECU limp mode? i've been driving my car for months with a bad knock sensor and it hasnt been in limp mode.
i'm worried that possibly something got screwed up in my ECU when the MOP wires got snagged by the crank pulley...
i'm worried that possibly something got screwed up in my ECU when the MOP wires got snagged by the crank pulley...
12-22-06, 03:19 PM
#21
yes, the codes are gone, only code 05 is left. the FSM states that the only effect the knock sensor has on the ecu is it slightly changes the idle in all conditions.
yeah i drove it and it is still in limp mode after the ECU being reset and having only the 05 knock sensor code
yeah i drove it and it is still in limp mode after the ECU being reset and having only the 05 knock sensor code
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