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No start problem appears to be bad fuel pump. There is no sound of the fuel pump running when the ignition key is on listening at the open fuel filler door with fuel cap off. Jumping the power to the pump at the diagnostic box in the engine compartment also gives no noise of the pump running. With the power wire in the diagnostic box jumped as described in the shop manual from power to ground, there is power to the plug at the fuel tank, but still no sound of the pump running. Shop manual says to replace the pump. One last question.....how loud is the pump when it is running? The electric fuel pump on my Corvette is pretty loud. Just looking for info before I remove the pump. Photo is with jumper wire the plug at the fuel pump has power (to both left and right connections) when the key is on. Without the jumper wire only the left connection has power. power to pump with jumper wire at the diagnostic box in front engine compartment
You did that all correctly and it sounds like the appropriate diagnosis. The stock pump isn't all that loud but you absolutely will hear it if you're listening for it.
For replacement pumps we advise the AEM 50-1000 along with modding the hanger a bit. Adding a bulkhead connector to replace the factory one (just for the pump power and ground) and deleting the o-ring seat in favor of a fuel line. Gates has the 5/16 submersible hose you need. You can also look at doing the fuel pump rewire as well if your car is modded at all. For an all stock or mostly stock car, there isn't a great deal of merit to it.
Thanks FDAUTO. The fuel system is about the only thing I have not modified. I suspect the pump may have been operating at the top of its capacity. I am running 15 psi boost and the 27 year old pump may have reached the end of its useful life.
Yeah just pull the pump and diagnose it, it's not bad to do. Get a Vessel screwdriver if you can for the screws that hold it on, they fit right and won't strip out.
It's typically pretty obvious if it's bad when you pull it out.
For replacements, I'd probably just do a Walbro 255. Bolt in, no hacking, doesn't draw so much current it will melt the connectors, and it's reliable.
