good luck finding a 22x1.5 in steel, plus in not to worried about whats gonna happen to a stock oil cooler "years" from now cause im sure ill change my setup a thousand times. If these fitting are good enough for a setrab cooler there good enough for mine.

 

Are the two ports on the stock cooler designated as inflow and outflow ports? If so, the diagram Wan made on post 80 is incorrect if you want to use the driver side cooler. Should be 1 to 4 and 3 to front cover. See fig 2 on the attached diagram.

Let me know this is true or not.

 

I don't think it matters though because the thermostat on the passenger side cooler won't let oil to the driver side cooler till the oil is up to temp. I have mine set up as Fig. 1. The passenger cooler gets hot before the driver side cooler.

 

man I got majorly Roasted for accidently saying some dual oil kits were overpriced... yikes. This is good stuff though

 

Then it also doesn't let oil get back to the engine until it's up to temp? No wonder the rotaries die so often!

 

You are a little confused--the closed t-stat just by-passes the oil cooler and returns oil directly to the motor uncooled.

 

So each port are not designated as inflow and outflow, they will flow in both directions. The t-stat just close access to the cooler, the not up to temp oil will just flow/circulate through the pipes.
I am such a fool.

Thanks

 

i weld aluminum fittings on my two oil coolers looks nice will post pics tomorrow

 

Regarding metric to AN adapters...

If you are a resourceful person with a welder and want to retain steel fittings at the cooler and have a parts stash of various fittings, you can do what I did:
* Buy two steel weld on fittings of your choice (male AN-8 from Summit Racing, $5 each or some steel AN-8/10 to NPT fitting and cut off the NPT part, I tend to keep a couple of these on hand for my various DIY projects)
* Use a band saw or hack saw and cut in the notches where the clips go for the stock fittings (or weld the weld fitting directly to the stock fitting and weld the clip notches)
* Weld fitting to stock fitting

Notes for this approach:
1) There is a rubber O-ring inside the stock fitting that you need to remove to facilitate #2
2) You need to thoroughly clean the fitting so there is no oil residue (observe appropriate precautions for the cleaning product being used, i.e. brake cleaner = dangerous if any liquid remains -> potential phosgene gas formation, which is really bad. I have to keep reminding myself about this since I use brake cleaner for cleaning so many things.)

Alternately, 22x1.5mm seems to be a popular size for BMW oil drain plugs that one could use if you did not have the stock fittings. I think they may be aluminum, though.

The $7.50 deal from anplumbing seems to be pretty reasonable given the time it took me to make up mine if you have to buy parts.

FWIW, the extra cooler I acquired is now the single/primary oil cooler for my turbo Miata project car since it is overkill in size for that car, already has t-stat and I already bought a pair of Long coolers for the FD. Upgrading stock FD parts = "free" upgrades for my Miata project, one system at a time.

Regards,
--Ashraf

 

Great idea
IFL

 

Actually it does matter.The inlet port is the one on the inside of the t-stat block.The oil passes through a by-pass port between the inlet and outlet,over the t-stat element in the oulet port.As the oil temperature increase the thermal pellet in the t-tat expands and closes off the by pass port,thus forcing the oil through the cooler.Oil passing through the cooler then controls the position of the t-stat.

Also the plate which closes off the by-pass port is spring loaded.If there is any blockage in the oil cooler oil will be forced through the by pass port and continue to the engine.If you mix the inlet and outlet lines,and your oil cooler becomes blocked,your motor will be starved of oil.

 

Does anyone know if you can use another 18mmx1.5 for the line to the oil filter, all these kits leave that line stock, and I figured I'd replace the entire loop. Any thoughts or info would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Yup you can do that, this thread is a DIY not a kit though. use a M18 to -10 adapter.

 

So what is the final verdict for cars still running AC....what fitting is used there without having to bend anything?

 

it's great to see all the ingenuity on the board...

way to go

howard

 

Just received second cooler in the mail. I too will be replacing the OEM line with new lines & fittings as Antfenech mentioned.

I will post pics.

 

I was thinking of using a banjo bolt & fitting as listed before on page 2, then it dawned on me.

The question was asked if it would lead to oil starvation using a banjo bolt...

The answer, NO... there are banjo bolts there stock..... Hell, I'm going to re-use the bolt & purchase the fitting. I will add that Mazdatrix's dual oil cooler setup uses -10 lines, so it should be fine as far as size goes.

http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm

Ordering all fittings soon. I will post a complete parts list for replacing all factory lines & keeping the A/C.

 

I was reading this and had one question that I guess XLR8 said he would just do.

When purchassing the banjo fitting can't you simply re-use the stock bolt instead of buying a new one. Then you would just need the fitting?

 

Yea, that's what he said he was going to do, reuse the bolt and buy just the fitting.

 

Would there be any reason not to do this besides looks is what I'm wondering?

 

Can't imagine why. It works for the R1/R2 setup.

 

Mazda Motorsports sells the R1 passenger side air scoop for about $15 bucks. Part # is in the stock parts catalog. It needed a little work to attach it to a driver side cooler mounted on the passenger side. Overall looks great and it mated up real nice to the front bumper air inlet.
.
I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler.
.
Question: I bought the SETRAB aluminum 22mmx1.5mm adapters with o-ring from www.anplumbing.com. It appears they will seal ok on the oil cooler inlets without using the stock rubberized washer. Anyone have the same setup? Do you use the adapter o-ring or stock rubber washer or both? All other new hoses/fittings are Earls Perform-O-Flex and Swivel seal filttings.

Thanks;

Greg

 

Anyone find the m18 to -8an or -10an banjo fitting? I am in the process of adding another oil cooler and have not been able find this banjo fitting. this one is the only one that i have found that may work.

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p2...duct_info.html

I know this is an adapter to JIC instead of -AN, and wanted to know if anyone has tried interchanging them, or if anyone has found a cheaper alternative than buying a $60 banjo fitting... I am trying to keep my a/c.

rx7_8u
"I have AC so regarding the hose connection to front cover, I plan on using the stock hose with the 22mmx1.5mm AN adapter on the end of the hose. From there run the AN hose to the pass side cooler."

how are you planning on using your stock line? using a 22mmx1.5 female to female coupler with a 22mmx1.5 to -an adapter? Or have you found a 22mmx1.5 female to male -an adapter?

Anyone have any input? I am trying not to order a m18 to -6an banjo fitting and use a -6an to -8an adapter.

 

Just a little update on my dual cooler setup. I ditched the factory drivers side oil cooler that I installed on the passenger side for a bigger 25 row Setrab unit. I should have taken side by side pictures to show the difference in size but I was in a hurry to finish this for a track day the next day. I still need to make a shroud for it but oil temps were great without it out on the track. I positioned the oil cooler very close to the opening on the bumper to try and use most of the air that was coming in. It's not the ideal setup but it works great for the time being.

This new cooler is hooked up just like the stock one was plumbed in my original diagram. I made new hoses because the fittings on the Setrab are on the top rather than on the bottom like the Mazda one. There's been some talk about push-on fittings and hoses failing right away but mine have been working great without leaks. My setup has worked great with multiple track days on it.

Staying on track with the budget theme of the original setup, I bought my Setrab oil cooler used from a Nascar car. The push-on hose came from Jeggs and the new fittings for the oil cooler came from BAT Inc (about $70-$80 bucks worth of fittings ). I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum stock I had laying around. I'm not a fan of drilling new holes on the car so I always use existing holes for whatever it is I'm installing. It takes a little longer to fab things up this way but its worth it in the end.




I'll try to get more pictures of my setup when I take my car apart again to make a shroud.

 

As promised. This will completely replace all OEM lines with SS line & AN fittings using the OEM oil coolers. No fitment issues with A/C. Be sure to cover the SS lines with plastic loom at possible rub points.

http://www.batinc.net/

OIL COOLER FITTINGS………………………………………..........................P ART#............PRICE

4.... Male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat -10 AN aluminum...AM22AN10......12.95--- 51.80
13 ft -10 aeroquip line.............................................. .................FC3-10..............6.50---84.50
2.... 45 degree alu -10 hose end............................................... ....T45-10.............18.75---37.50
2.... straight alu -10 hose end............................................... ........TS-10.................8.95---17.90
1.... male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to -10 AN steel...........AM18AN10.........9.85
2.... 90 degree alum -10 hose end............................................... .T90-10.............37.50
1.... "Metric Banjo -AN Male"............................................. .............BJ1810M..........30.15
1.... banjo bolt.............................................. .................................BJBM18........... .11.90
2.... seals............................................. ..........................................DS-M18................80--- 1.60

$282.70