dual oil coolers cheap
**WARNING** WARNING*** to those using the push-Loc type hoses: You cannot use a clamp on these hoses. When you clamp down on them, they end up destroying the internal elastic liner causing a failure of the hoses. This is on the Aeromotive FAQ on their website.
The way to put them on, as I found out via a search on the internet, was to heat up the hoses in a pan of boiling water for about 1 to 2 minutes, lube up the fitting with penetrating oil then push the hose on midway into the fitting with your hands. For the final push all the way to the end of the fitting, put your hands between your thighs and use your thighs to further push the two together. It goes on like butter.
The way to put them on, as I found out via a search on the internet, was to heat up the hoses in a pan of boiling water for about 1 to 2 minutes, lube up the fitting with penetrating oil then push the hose on midway into the fitting with your hands. For the final push all the way to the end of the fitting, put your hands between your thighs and use your thighs to further push the two together. It goes on like butter.
If you want to save more money, you can go with Summit Racing's Twist-tite fittings and hose. Theyre socketless fittings and cost much less. I went this route and saved more money. Summit uses a blue hose for their Twist-tite line but Jeggs carries a black line designed to work with socketless fittings. I used the blue hose since I didnt know about the black hose from Jeggs until a few days after getting my stuff in from Summit.
The only thing that sucks about Summit's socketless fittings, is that theyre a little longer than some other AN fittings. Take these 45* fittings for example:
Notice how much tighter the bend is on the Earl's fitting on the right. Both of these are -10 fittings. The tighter bend may be better if you're tight on space. I used Summit's socketless fittings on my oil coolers and while the bends werent as tight as the Earl's fittings, everything worked out for me by adjusting the position and angle of my 2nd oil cooler.
Heres one of Summit's -10 fitting for reference. This is also a -10 45* fitting just like the above two but notice how much longer the fitting is after the bend.
Like someone mentioned earlier in this thread, not all fittings are created equally. Some are more compact than others so take this into consideration if you're limited on space.
The only thing that sucks about Summit's socketless fittings, is that theyre a little longer than some other AN fittings. Take these 45* fittings for example:
Notice how much tighter the bend is on the Earl's fitting on the right. Both of these are -10 fittings. The tighter bend may be better if you're tight on space. I used Summit's socketless fittings on my oil coolers and while the bends werent as tight as the Earl's fittings, everything worked out for me by adjusting the position and angle of my 2nd oil cooler.
Heres one of Summit's -10 fitting for reference. This is also a -10 45* fitting just like the above two but notice how much longer the fitting is after the bend.
Like someone mentioned earlier in this thread, not all fittings are created equally. Some are more compact than others so take this into consideration if you're limited on space.
Last edited by pomanferrari; Dec 19, 2008 at 02:00 PM.
I talked to a Summit Racing rep about using clamps on these hoses and they said they werent needed. I bought some Earls assembly lube which made it very easy to put together my fittings. I made a line too long and I couldnt remove the hose from the fitting no matter how hard I tried. I had to cut the line and slit it to remove it. So far my socketless fittings have held up with no leaks.
No leaks.
someone on the classifieds asked me for a parts list of fittings that i used to convert a driver's side oil cooler to the passenger side so i thought i would pass it on:
i bought my fittings from my favorite hard parts supplier from my road racing days... you can check out their excellent website: www.pegasusautoracing.com
here's what you need to order. cost is $180.
3 male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat 8 AN aluminum $56.97 item number #3276-008
10 ft #8 aeroquip line $54.90 item # 3270 08
2 45 degree alu #8 hose end $29.98 item # 3271 08 045
1 straight alu #8 hose end $6.49 item # 3271 08 000
1 male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to 8 AN steel $13.99 item # 3265-35
1 150 degree alum #8 hose end 16.99 item # 3271 08 150
$179.32 plus a driver's side cooler ( you can buy them by the truckload for $50 shipped) and duct and some work on your part.
the install worked out great. no leaks. stone cold oil temps making over 500 rwhp.
howard coleman
i bought my fittings from my favorite hard parts supplier from my road racing days... you can check out their excellent website: www.pegasusautoracing.com
here's what you need to order. cost is $180.
3 male 22 MM X1.5 MM metric concave seat 8 AN aluminum $56.97 item number #3276-008
10 ft #8 aeroquip line $54.90 item # 3270 08
2 45 degree alu #8 hose end $29.98 item # 3271 08 045
1 straight alu #8 hose end $6.49 item # 3271 08 000
1 male 18 MM X 1.5 Metric concave seat to 8 AN steel $13.99 item # 3265-35
1 150 degree alum #8 hose end 16.99 item # 3271 08 150
$179.32 plus a driver's side cooler ( you can buy them by the truckload for $50 shipped) and duct and some work on your part.
the install worked out great. no leaks. stone cold oil temps making over 500 rwhp.
howard coleman
Is it the 22 MM X1.5 or the 18 MM X 1.5? Sorry, I come from the FC world, and our coolers use the 18mm X 1.5.
Heres a quick diagram I made based on what Howard posted. I didnt list the hose lengths because I forgot what the actual measurements were but my lines ended up being much shorter than Howard's measurements. I bought 10 feet or hose and had plenty left over.
This should be much easier to understand for people having a hard time with this mod.
This should be much easier to understand for people having a hard time with this mod.
Think about it for a minute and it will make sense. If you need (3) 22mmx1.5 and only (1) 18mmx1.5 than it should be clear . The 22mmx1.5 are for the oil cooler. the 18mmx1.5 is for the block.
Cool, thanks for putting me out of my misery
Would it be too much of a bottle neck at the block return to use an 18mm banjo AND a 90 deg bend with -AN female to 18mm male adapter in between? (all avail thru BAT Inc.)
Driver side oil cooler in the mail
Driver side oil cooler in the mail
Full Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 54
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From: Oshkosh, WI
As part of my "do stuff while engine is out" effort I am adding a passenger side oil cooler as well. I went ahead and added a 'T' fitting to both oil coolers( or right next to them ) at the lowest point so I can drain them when I change engine oil. The car is not back together yet so I'm not sure how much oil will drain out. I looked at the oil capacity specs for the base vs. R1. The R1 takes an additional 1/2 quart so I assumed the coolers' volume are significant. Once again, I havn't tried it yet so this might not even be neccesary. Anyone able to comment?
I needed to add a little more oil to the engine once I added my second oil cooler but it wasnt something significant. I didnt add a drain to the oil coolers because I didnt want another place that could potentially leak. To me the simpler the system, the better. I guess you can change the oil more frequently if you're concerned about dirty oil in the coolers.
http://www.batinc.net
I did and never looked back! Those guys really REALLY know their fittings
"I see triangles"
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,119
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From: PA
Just a question:
Would it be unwise to use a metric banjo bolt with a metric banjo to -an fitting for running the oil to the bottom of the block there were it's tight?
Part #s BJBM18 and BJ188H on batinc.net
Would it be unwise to use a metric banjo bolt with a metric banjo to -an fitting for running the oil to the bottom of the block there were it's tight?
Part #s BJBM18 and BJ188H on batinc.net
How necessary is it to use the aluminum fittings? I have a local hydraulic warehouse down the road and they carry everything I need in stainless steel for a fraction of the cost. I am considering going this route but just want to check if there may be something I'm missing about using aluminum.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,045
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From: NC
I needed to add a little more oil to the engine once I added my second oil cooler but it wasnt something significant. I didnt add a drain to the oil coolers because I didnt want another place that could potentially leak. To me the simpler the system, the better. I guess you can change the oil more frequently if you're concerned about dirty oil in the coolers.
How necessary is it to use the aluminum fittings? I have a local hydraulic warehouse down the road and they carry everything I need in stainless steel for a fraction of the cost. I am considering going this route but just want to check if there may be something I'm missing about using aluminum.
This actually might be a bad idea... I was always told to try to fill the oil coolers after installing them to eliminate any "oil starvation". It is probably more critical on a new motor but I wouldn't want to risk damage to the motor...
Bringing this one back and im sorry but im about to tackle this and need a little more info about the line size. How long does the line have to be from the drivers to passenger side cooler, and will these fitting work for the oil coolers because they are wayyyy cheaper but they do not say there "concave".
Second one from the bottom http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...Setrab!_Cooler
Second one from the bottom http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index...Setrab!_Cooler
If anyone is trying or thinking about trying this I found some different fitting that should work and they are A LOT cheaper. They are in the link i posted above and run 7.50 a piece apposed to 23 bucks.
01000101
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 39
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From: vancouver, wa
Yea, definitely let us know. I have the second cooler already and was going to hold off on doing it for a while, but I still don't have my SMB exhaust, so might as well get going on that while i'm waiting.
I have the second cooler already and was going to hold off on doing it for a while, but I still don't have my SMB exhaust, so might as well get going on that while i'm waiting.
ok guys heres the pics of the cheaper fittings for the oil cooler (link above), They come with a o-ring which i used with the stock washers on the cooler ( good idea?). I should have all the fittings and hose next week sometime and i post up stuff as i go along.
How necessary is it to use the aluminum fittings? I have a local hydraulic warehouse down the road and they carry everything I need in stainless steel for a fraction of the cost. I am considering going this route but just want to check if there may be something I'm missing about using aluminum.
http://www.oilcoolers.com/article_oil_cooler_woes.asp
See the section "Damaged Thread Issues/Very Important" on page one of their oil cooler woes article.