Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

thanks for your helpful info Rx7aholic. it is always good to get data.

i am about to install an FJO oil temperature and FJO oil pressure gauge. both are able to be logged thru my Datalogit and it will be interesting to see what happens on a dyno run. i admit i have never noticed my oil pressure around 8000+.

anyway, i really have debated where to locate my oil temperature sender. you have located yours after the coolers. i think i will locate mine at the front driver's side of the engine and pick up the temperature of the oil just as it leaves the engine for the coolers. i really want to know my max oil temperature. of course, it would be interesting to know how much heat is removed by picking up the temp at the filter too.

generally in my racing days my oil was 20 degrees F hotter than my coolant.

it will be interesting to check...

expect my dual cooler install pictures next week.

hc

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

howard coleman, i love you.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

3 pics to show you how the driver's side cooler mounts






since i adapted a driver's side cooler i modded the mounts. as you can see i cut the right mount, drilled a couple of holes, used 3/4 X 1/8 mild steel. while i welded the right side mount if you don't weld you can just drill a hole to mount the two pieces together.


ditto the left mount without any welding


additional perspective on the modded mounts. a key is that mazda built all chassis as if they had 2 oil coolers SO ALL THE STUDS AND REFERENCE POINTS ARE ON THE PASS SIDE!! BTW, i cut a piece of welding rod the exact length that the driver's side cooler was from the inboard frame and it made it much quicker to situate the pass side cooler....

i cut the front 1.25 inches off the duct and flipped it inside out so it has the same outline as the R1 pass side... while it may look a bit rough, and you are welcome to make it look better, all of the black duct tape is completely hidden within the nose. i also pop riveted aluminum sheet so it is solid. hey, it works perfectly...


notice how the screen fits behind the duct. screen is essential. i have NO flattened fins after a season. each cooler has a thermostat... neat.


use the OEM Mazda washers between the fitting and the cooler. no leaks no where.


notice how nice the lines track thru all the plastic. as to line length... there are two ports on each cooler. let's start on the driver's side and number them 1 thru 4. port 1 connects to port 3 and the line is 66 inches before the fittings. port 4 connects w the engine at the front and is 33 inches. both measurements are approx wintin an inch or two.


behind the pass side radiator mount




driver's side cooler. notice OEM washer. no leaks.


next step will be loggable FJO Oil Temperature and Pressure gauges.

hc

JDRX-7

iTrader: (1)

Howard, thanks for the long awaited pics I really appreciate the effort.

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

i was in rush when i posted the pics and just want to add a bit...

the installation can be done w simple hand tools. if you haven't worked w Aeroquip lines you will find it easy and fun. you will need a vise although there are creative ways around even this.

most oil coolers you will find have smashed fins in the area opposite the duct opening. no biggie. they straighten easily and work 100%. as previously posted all you need is something like a pick and 30 minutes of sitting on the couch watching Barrett-Jackson and you have a good as new cooler.

buy the 3/4 X 1/8 steel strapping from your local hardware store. you will need to drill a couple of 1/4 inch holes to join the two pieces of the right mount w a bolt.

do not skip the stainless steel screen or you will be back on the couch next year w the pick. i run a piece in front of my radiator too.

all parts are listed in the beginning of this thread and cost around $180.

you could easily substitute other hose to lower the price.

notice there is a rear mount to the cooler. i think that i took it off the donor car. the bracket could easily be made from the steel strap from the hardware store.

there are a number of rubber mounting biscuits. try to get them when you get the cooler...of course they are easily obtained at any parts store.

don't forget the duct when you buy your cooler.

good luck and let's see some photos from others. i am sure others will find better ways to do the job. i will be ontrack a bunch in 08 and will be reporting temps.

howard coleman

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

here's some help on nose removal so you can actually get working on the project.

remove the front wheels

remove the front undertray.

remove the lower underbody black front plastic corner pieces

remove the lower 3 bolts holding the front of the inner fender liner. remove the inboard plastic fastener near the front w a phillips screw driver.

carefully work the front 1/3 of the fender liner away from the outer lip. look into the space between the fender liner and fender and you will see 2 or 3 nuts on studs that secure the nose. you will need a longish extension and a 10 mm socket preferably deep. once you get the nuts started loose you can reach in and spin them off w your finger. remove a screw located rearward near the fender lip in the front. it points up.

raise the headlights. remove the black plastic border. (4 screws) this will allow you to reach the last nut. it is located at the front just around the corner from the opening near the light. use a box 10 MM. i have a racheting box which is really the tool of choice for this nut.

remove the elec connection for the side lights.

after you do both sides remove the 4 bolts in the front of the engine compartment. start to work the nose off and after you have it moved an inch or two twist/disconnect the 4 front elec connections.

nose removal shouldn't take more than 30 minutes once you have the car up on jackstands or a lift.

hc

TRISPEEDFD3S

iTrader: (26)

Thanks HC. I will be getting a passenger side cooler from my bud, and just use your lines list to hook it all up, instead of sourcing R1 lines.

2FAST7S

Here's the "kit" from pegasus...the price went up slightly but its just a few more bucks.

I should have gotten the screen at the same time!

thanx for the pics Mr. Coleman.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

2FAST7S,


I couldn't find that "kit" on the pegasus website. could you link me? i'd love to have everything i need in one package with the correct length of hose and all the correct fittings.

2FAST7S

Sorry if i misled you, theres no kit. Just cut and past the part numbers from the top of this thread onto pegasus's website.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

oh ok, that was just your own picture: the parts you purchased from pegasus. thanks for the pic

2FAST7S

Again sorry about the confusion.

I had something similar planned out for the brackets...Lets see how it comes out. Thank you Howard Coleman, great pics and write up!

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

To do this, you would have to remove the bracket holding the Mazda line to the A/C bracket. I couldn't mount mine up because of the tight area. Looking for a low profile banjo adapter to the AN8 fitting.

Smitter

i was wondering that

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

I would suggest that if you have AC you need to use -10AN line with -10AN lines instead of -8AN as Howard indicated and do the following:

1. buy the banjo fitting "Metric Banjo -AN Male" part number BJ1810M
2. buy the Metric banjo bolt part number BJBM18
3. two seals DS-M18.

You would not need to buy the 120 degree AN8 fitting or 18mm to AN8 adapter if you go this route.

See the attached PDF file for what I'm talking about. Where to order from?

http://www.batinc.net/mocal.htm

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

I went ahead and added an after market second oil cooler. Haven't really checked out cooling yet. What I have noticed is that my water temps are very reactive to the radiator fans. Once they kick on it doesn't take long at all for the temps to fall.

Rx7aholic

iTrader: (22)

Guys check this out, last week week I got caught in traffic with temperature at 95 degree, to my surprised the oil temp went pass 250 degree and I even have a vented hood, I guess my next mod is bigger oil cooler.
Khris

Eggie

Bigger coolers still require airflow.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

I just pried it out of the way. Bent the bracket for the line down to clear the A/C mount and then pushed it away from the engine. Not all AN fittings are equal. Some brands can add about an 1/8th inch of interference if clearance is an issue. I don't remember what brand I had as I already had a 120deg fitting lying around. I urge everyone to stay away from the FRAGOLA brand as they are crap.

I was finally able to drive my new setup in the harsh conditions of city driving in this heat. I'm very satisfied. I've got a large aftermarket cooler and one stock cooler with a 99 front end and no ducting. I don't know my oil temps but my coolant temps were only reaching 97c on the powerFC. I used to see them hit 103 or so.

Azcamel

iTrader: (1)

hey was looking at a kit for 150 with the cooler, and these parts (dont want to link because its ebay)
will these parts work?

CNC milled billet aluminum oil plate has 1/8” NPT ports for oil pressure and temperate sensors for gauges or for turbo oil feed lines
Cools hot engine oil by over 20 degrees
Oil cooler is lightweight aluminum
Corrosion resistant design will last a lifetime and not rust
Bar and fin core design is very effective at cooling hot engine oil
7/8” Oil lines are fully reinforced with braided stainless steel
Oil lines resisit engine bay heat and can support over 200 PSI
Oil Line fittings are machine crimped and checked to prevent leaks
Oil filter adapter has 1.5mm threads
Stainless steel lines feature aluminum racing swivel fittings
Oil lines are high quality and 4.4 ft. long each (52 inches)
Cooler measures 13” long x 5.5” wide x 2” thick
Cooler features 4 strong brackets for a sturdy and easy installation
Cooler core has 15 rows which is perfect for cooling hot engine oil(a cooler that is larger will not be efficient)
Cooler can be mounted in direct airflow or hidden and it will still do its job of cooling
If the engine already features a factory oil cooler, this oil kit can still be used together with the OEM cooler kit

DarkLikePoe

Not to drag this thing up from the dead, but when I installed my second oil cooler, I noticed that the length of line required to get from the driver's oil cooler (port 1) to the passenger oil cooler (port 3) was significantly shorter than 66 inches as indicated by HC's writeup.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

The foul demon wins again.

jkstill

iTrader: (11)

Howard, I have search around for several minutes looking for the answer to this question:

What kind of oil temps do you see on track with the dual stock oil coolers?

This thread would be a good place to have this info anyway.

Pourke

This could work assuming you find the right fittings. I was thinking about this same setup due to the lower price but don't forget you need a thermostat. If you're finding the right fitting and using this as a second oil cooler for your passenger side I can't see why it wouldn't work.

After further thought though I'm going with this route. The stock oil coolers already have temp gauges in them and for a little more money I could use my stock one, buy another and have two. My only question is that if I'm going to replace the stock line from the oil filter to the oil cooler would I only need more line, the steel fitting, and another elbow?

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

Finally installed this. My Evans coolant temp is a rock solid 87C on this hill 6% grade for half a mile whereas with the single cooler, it used to rise to 95C.