Difference between different pulley setups
04-11-05, 05:24 PM
#1
Difference between different pulley setups
I was wondering:
What are the benefits of running a full pulley setup (Main, Alt., P/S and water pump) vs. just the main pulley setup that Greddy sells for $115 or Unorthodox sells for $189 vs. $425 for the full setup.
Is there any big difference by getting ALL new pulleys? Seems like a waste of money when you can just get the water pump and alternator for $115.
Is the $425 unorthodox setup worth it? seems like a rip for $425.
I'm only making like 380rwhp so its not like I'm single and need everything to be high performance.
What are the benefits of running a full pulley setup (Main, Alt., P/S and water pump) vs. just the main pulley setup that Greddy sells for $115 or Unorthodox sells for $189 vs. $425 for the full setup.
Is there any big difference by getting ALL new pulleys? Seems like a waste of money when you can just get the water pump and alternator for $115.
Is the $425 unorthodox setup worth it? seems like a rip for $425.
I'm only making like 380rwhp so its not like I'm single and need everything to be high performance.
04-12-05, 04:37 AM
#3
Appearance is the other reason.
Ask yourself these things when considering any particular option:
- Are you going to get rid of the air pump? WP belt contact is a challenge with it removed, and the largest WP, main, and alternator pulleys you can find will maximize contact.
- Are the pulleys a different size from stock in the upgrade kit? Some aren't, which itself is not a bad thing, but if it conflicts with your other goals (maximizing belt contact, saving money), it is worth considering.
- Does the main pulley replace the hub? That complicates the install significantly, because the main shaft bolt is often very hard to remove, and if the thrust bearing falls down you have to pull the front cover.
Tips:
- Underdrive main pulleys are smaller than stock. Underdrive accessory pulleys are larger than stock.
- You can buy belts at local auto parts stores in many different lengths and numbers of ribs (look them up online at gates.com, etc.) -- you can use a string or measuring tape to figure out the length you need, and the ribs are a standard size.
- NAPA sells a little tool called the "Krikit II" for about $20 that you can use to measure belt tension. It is good for peace of mind when you first replace some belts, and may be worth the modest expense. However, you don't really need it and you will quickly get a sense for how tight the belts should be.
-Max
Ask yourself these things when considering any particular option:
- Are you going to get rid of the air pump? WP belt contact is a challenge with it removed, and the largest WP, main, and alternator pulleys you can find will maximize contact.
- Are the pulleys a different size from stock in the upgrade kit? Some aren't, which itself is not a bad thing, but if it conflicts with your other goals (maximizing belt contact, saving money), it is worth considering.
- Does the main pulley replace the hub? That complicates the install significantly, because the main shaft bolt is often very hard to remove, and if the thrust bearing falls down you have to pull the front cover.
Tips:
- Underdrive main pulleys are smaller than stock. Underdrive accessory pulleys are larger than stock.
- You can buy belts at local auto parts stores in many different lengths and numbers of ribs (look them up online at gates.com, etc.) -- you can use a string or measuring tape to figure out the length you need, and the ribs are a standard size.
- NAPA sells a little tool called the "Krikit II" for about $20 that you can use to measure belt tension. It is good for peace of mind when you first replace some belts, and may be worth the modest expense. However, you don't really need it and you will quickly get a sense for how tight the belts should be.
-Max
04-12-05, 08:38 AM
#4
I luv my carbon footprint
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The $189 Unorthodox pulley is a complete underdrive pulley replacement for the main pulley but the rest of the pulleys in the $425 kit are just for looks. I've been running the Unorthodox kit for about 4 years now and I've been very happy with it.
04-12-05, 09:55 AM
#5
0-rotor-0-turbo-0-fd
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think appearance is the only thing you get realy, yes they look pretty, for the 2-3 extra hp in my opinion is not worth throwin 450+ dollars, just my o2.
I was gonna get the UR kit also, but instead I just got the p/s pulley to replace the plastic one and I'm sending all the stock ones to powder coat, save some bux and still look nice and clean.
I was gonna get the UR kit also, but instead I just got the p/s pulley to replace the plastic one and I'm sending all the stock ones to powder coat, save some bux and still look nice and clean.
04-12-05, 11:06 AM
#6
Originally Posted by TwinTurbo93
I think appearance is the only thing you get realy, yes they look pretty, for the 2-3 extra hp in my opinion is not worth throwin 450+ dollars, just my o2.
Trending Topics
04-12-05, 11:56 AM
#9
Originally Posted by ROTARYFDTT
Actually, there are a couple threads awhile back in which individuals cite gaining 15 wheel on heavily modded set-ups (350rwhp+). It seems as though from reading previous threads. The more power you are making, the more you seek to gain from adding a full set of UR pullies.
Is this from underdriving just the main pulley (The $180 Unorthodox) or the Full, $425 setup?? I'm not going to spend $425 vs. 180 just because of the bling factor.
04-12-05, 12:19 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Rx-7Addict
Is this from underdriving just the main pulley (The $180 Unorthodox) or the Full, $425 setup?? I'm not going to spend $425 vs. 180 just because of the bling factor.
04-12-05, 12:24 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Rx-7Addict
Is this from underdriving just the main pulley (The $180 Unorthodox) or the Full, $425 setup?? I'm not going to spend $425 vs. 180 just because of the bling factor.
Get even more by running the UR main pulley with the GReddy or SR WP and alternator pulleys. That is what I used to run, but I switched back to the stock main pulley for increased belt contact on the WP pulley and more coolant flow (I switched to NPG+).
-Max
Last edited by maxcooper; 04-12-05 at 12:27 PM.
04-12-05, 01:44 PM
#13
FD = Mr. Toad's Wild Ride
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 405
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
08-31-15 07:49 PM
