rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, I'll be changing my water-pump and pulley next week on my S5-T2

I'm looking for a quicker insight on changing it rather then the other write ups that seems to be for housing removals?

So I just have my Power steering on my main shaft belt and that is all.

I'm going to list out my steps please indicate any issues:

1.Drain Coolant
2.un-Tension+Removal of power steering belt+alternator
*Now just sitting with main tension pulley on crank pulley
3. Removal the Main tensioner pulley to aid removal of Water-pump pulley sitting behind it.
4. Remove and replace pump with new/gasket
5. Re-install tensioner pulley onto crank pulley
6. re-setup belts and tension them+fill coolant+power.


So too my knowledge I'm good no steps missed.

Unless I'm suppose to turn off my battery and set the crank to timing mark for reference, but I was told I don't need to because the S5 CAS allows for un- measured adjustment as it's mechanical on tracking the timing.

So? Everything is good or do i need to still set up timing? if so best method?











Maybe unrelated but, I can't find any information on the electric oil metering system and what is should look like running. I never see anything I just amuse it works because my engine doesn't seem to be failing.

I image it's not a visual system,as oil does flow though the pump and not up those clear Teflon lines, otherwise I would be reading a lot about oil leaks. Reason being I just can't find any information on line sizing for S5 TII engines, only S4-5 non turbos. Too replace mine as it would cost me 200 dollars to replace my lines if I purchased.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Removing the Pump because the thermostat went, and the pump would also indicate wear due to failer of other coolant parts. Also because the bottom of the radiator seems to be a little cooler then the top in a noticeable way. : Indicator of wearing out should be little more even to my knowledge, plus the lack of churning that is visible at the filler point when I check and remove air pockets. (I have drilled thermostat so movement should be visible at low temperature)

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

just to make it EASY it is best to set the pulley at the Timing marks and Also mark any other pulley with a "line up mark" so that ALL of them can be installed at once.
If not,you are Fumbling to try and line them up.
The Holes for the main pulley are a little Offset so the pulley bolts will only line up ONE way..the correct way.
IF you find that the bolts do not install easily then your pulley holes are not lining up so you are trying to install it incorrectly.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure why you'd be removing the CAS.

You also don't need to remove the entire main pulley.

Just remove the outer two pulleys (A/C and PS).

They only go back one way as the holes are keyed.

If the water pump isn't leaking, then it probably has not failed. Then again it's never a bad idea to replace a 20 year old water pump.

Uneven cooling on the rad is far more indicative of a clogged rad.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

I couldn't figure out the lining up issues: But as you stated it's related to re-installation issues.
The CAS is staying in, I was just confused on the timing related portion as someone listed a poor guide... Never was going to take that off.

Simply remove the exterior bolts around eccentric shaft main bolt after marking fully assembled pulley layout for easy re-assmebly with a bright marker.

Uneven cooling is just top to bottom.. obviously when at running temp it's all unbearable to touch. Will replace it anyways as I have a nice shiny super-now waterpump pulley.

Too conclude my questions: what suggestions are there for cleaning the radiator. (koyo aluminum)

1.Would It be best to remove the radiator and fill it with vinegar and shake the ***** out of it and then
let it sit and flush with water?

I do get small calcium/gunky looking particles when when burping the system.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

If your getting calcium buildup its either sat, or has never been run with distilled water

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the hot water comes out of the engine from the top, gets cooled and goes back into the engine from the bottom, so the radiator SHOULD be colder at the bottom. if it is not colder at the bottom it means it is not cooling anything

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

This was my too my knowledge as well on the matter.

I have to image my pump works as you hit the throttle and it spits out a cup of coolant when bleeding

I had this same radiator in a different setup before and you would open the filler neck and let it bleed but you would also see a swirl on the top as if your draining a sink, but a steady coolant level would be present.

Too cover all my bases I would like to do the following.
1. Change pump
2. Remove radiator fill with flush(store bought) and shake and drain 2-4hours (all aluminum not plastic)
4. Flush system after radiator treatment and refill with coolant.


Solved: Q - Why (timing) - Related to Assembly not ignition(CAS)
Q - Why Heat - Old + previous owners.