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It will be self-evident, but you also have to remove the Power Plant Frame.
Some get them from the top, but I use a few ratchet extentions with a universal joint and 14mm socket on the upper bolts for the bellhousing.
See the stickys for the video on releasing the pull-style clutch.
Oh yeah I highly highly recommend having an extra set of hands. Notice that big metal beam #17 on the FSM page. Well when you release the tranny studs from it it is quite quick to shift. I only removed the 4 nuts holding the tranny and left the diff side in place then supported it with the FD's scissor jack. Well it swung left and down rather quickly leaving me with a nice cut/bruise/bump on my noggin.
Sounds like with the right tools and some luck (hah!) this could be in and out inside a day. Some questions...
From the FSM, pg. J-10, step 17 -- what are the implications of NOT supporting the motor from above? You risk getting bumped in the noggin if you're not quick on your feet? (@akunochi). Any risk of damage to motor mounts etc? Will not supporting the motor cause any headaches when it's time for the PPF to go back in?
I've read that using a pilot bearing tool (such as Atkins Rotary part ARE904) is very useful - can anyone vouch for that or can it easily be done without?
I've already read at least one account of somebody recommending NOT to use the release bearing that comes with the ACT clutch, but use OEM instead. Again, any thoughts on this?
Should I just throw in a new slave cylinder while I'm there?
I had a 13lbs flywheel in a FWD MX-3 years ago and it was one my favorite mods to the car. Any recommendations on ACT "Streetlite" (11lbs 8oz) vs "Prolite" (9lbs 13oz)?
AT counterweight for flywheel -- is it obvious what I'm doing with this thing once I'm in there?
Last edited by mkd; Dec 4, 2019 at 12:57 AM.
Reason: More questions!
1. I've removed the transmission w/o supporting the engine, but that was with aftermarket engine mounts. I think the FSM may be concerned about the engine rotating once the PPF is removed and the trans. has no support...stressing the rubber OEM mounts.
2. I have the MAZDA SST and there's nothing apparently special about it. I see no reason other "Blind bearing removal tools" wouldn't work. Harbor Freight sells one a bit cheaper than Atkins https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-...-pc-62601.html I think reinstalling the new bearing and seal is trickier. I've always just used the wide flat head of a body hammer and the old bearing, but might spring for the tool before I have to do another.
3. No experience with the ACT throw-out bearing. But if given a choice, I would use the MAZDA bearing.
4. No reason to change the slave unless your having issue. It's pretty accessible.
5. From my experience with an 11 lbs LWFW I would stick with the ACT Streetlite for a street-driven car. Lighter would be a nuisance and just shorten disc and PP life.
6. Yes, it should be obvious. What isn't obvious is the slight visual differences between a FC auto counterweight and a FD auto counterweight. So when you source one, do so from a trusted experienced member or a trusted dealer like Atkins or others And I would use hardened bolts.
Something else to consider while the transmission is dropped....
*A new clutch fork. Especially if you're using a heavier pressure plate and you think your fork is original. They've been known to fail and it would suck to have to pull the transmission again.
*Rear transmission seal. Pulling the drive shaft snout in and out can cause the old seal to start leaking. They're < $15 and takes about 2 minutes to change. No-brainer.
*Good time to change trans. gear oil. Drain it before dropping, fill after reinstall.
It's nearly impossible to drop the trans and keep the gear oil in there unless you have a special tool. I have a cut off end of a driveshaft that came with a JDM motor years ago I've used for that purpose. It sucks but I would go ahead and drain and fill the trans. If not it will dump all over the driveway at some point and get in your hair. Better to just go ahead and plan to do it instead of the trans deciding to do it for you .
The flywheel nut is 54mm or 2 1/8". I have a Craftsman 2 1/8" socket I've had for 25 years that has removed MANY flywheels, works great. Since Sears isn't around any more you may have to get online to find a socket.
If you have air tools with some gusto that will typically remove the flywheel nut. If you're doing it by hand you'll need to lock the flywheel to keep it from spinning. I used to use a piece of sturdy chain, one end bolted to the rear of the engine, one to one of the pressure plate bolts. USE SPARE BOLTS, it's easy to damage the bolts doing this. That will hold it in place while you wrench on the nut. The flywheel will also be stuck on there, thread the big nut on a few threads and WHACK the flywheel with a coated dead-blow hammer - Harbor Freight has them for cheap. When you get pissed off and REALLY hit it the flywheel will pop off, you'll hear a different tone when the hammer hits it when it releases.
Personally, I typically only mess with the pilot bearing if it's demonstrably bad. A new seal and a clean and re-grease is what they need most times. I've seen more than one case of someone replacing a funcioning pilot bearing and messing stuff up in the process - gouging the E-shaft, crushing the needles in the bearing, etc. If you have the right tools to remove and install it's not a big deal, if you don't you can spend hours dorking with it. The seal is a piece of cake to replace comparatively.
With air tools doing the job in my driveway on jack stands I can do a clutch in about 3 hours. On a lift about 2 hours. It's not a hard car to do a clutch on all things considered.
If you don't mind spending the money the Harbor Freight trans jack is AWESOME. Makes the re-install SO much easier. It's about $80-90 if memory serves, it's a scissor jack you crank up and down with a ratchet. Don't bother with the safety strap, it's overkill and gets in the way big time.
Read up some on the forum, a lot of this has been covered over the years. Make sure to have a friend or two handy and take your time.
I don't have air tools, but I have a 1/2" drive Makita impact wrench. I suppose I could try that with a 3/4" adapter. Seems like the $30 RB flywheel stopper tool +$45 puller would be well worth the money here.
Tempted to do diff and motor mount bushings while everything is apart.
Do you actually torque the flywheel nut back on or just get it nice and tight?
You drill it back on for all it’s worth. Hard to imagine you can over-tighten. The FSM page H-19 says 290-361 ft lbs. I think most cordless drills run out of steam at about 100. You’ll probably need a big breaker bar with a cheater to R & R.
I remember tightening axle nuts on a previous car with a 6' galvanized pipe over a breaker bar. The spec was around 300ft-lbs also, but in retrospect I wouldn't be surprised if we got it to 450+.
DC is right, you’ll need something to hold the FW without a big impact. If it’s never been off they can cause naughty words. And if you have OEM engine mounts you want to keep those in mind.
Yep, I just let the impact gun hammer on the flywheel nut until it stops turning. Of the MANY clutch jobs I've done never had a single problem.
RB has a long wrench and stopper tool for the flywheel. People make a lot of noise about removing it but typically it's not that bad. The front pulley nut, now THAT joker is a CHORE to remove.
Motor mounts may be worth doing, you'd need an engine hoist to pick up the engine enough to get the old mounts out/new ones in. Don't do a jack under the oil pan, that's a good way to make yourself a LOT of work.
Diff mount requires a press to get the old mounts out. You can do that while you're in there but you aren't saving a huge amount of time.
Seems like the $30 RB flywheel stopper tool +$45 puller would be well worth the money here.
Yes, money well spent
Originally Posted by mkd
Tempted to do diff and motor mount bushings while everything is apart.
If they are original, you should replace them while you can
Originally Posted by mkd
I remember tightening axle nuts on a previous car with a 6' galvanized pipe over a breaker bar. The spec was around 300ft-lbs also, but in retrospect I wouldn't be surprised if we got it to 450+.
The hockey stick looking bracket for the air pump works for me to lock the flywheel. I bolt one end into one of the transmission holes and the other to a pressure plate hole.
I also had some issues in the past where my clutch alignment tool was too long. It would bottom out in the eshaft and not allow perfect centering of the clutch disc. This of course made transmission alignment a pain to where I'd have to loosen the pressure plate to allow the clutch disc to float and then tighten it again through the service port once the trans was back on. I didn't realize this until someone on the forum suggest to trim off about 1/4" of the tip of the alignment tool. Transmission installs have been like butter ever since.
This thread is definitely spot on with the recommendations. Definitely don't replace the pilot bearing unless you see that it's actually messed up. I tried pulling one out just as pre-emptive maintenance and I spent hours trying to dig it out and I eventually had to take a rotary tool to it and boogered up my e-shaft a bit and I regret every bit of it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
I think I was the one that figured out to trim the alignment tool. Makes a BIG difference for sure.
Dale
Yes - I think it was you, Dale. I had the engine and trans out of the car and I still could not line it up. Even tried a different clutch alignment tool the next round and had the same problem. Now that I trimmed one the trans lines up perfectly everytime.
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