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What kind of clearance is needed under the vehicle to remove the tranny? Are we talking small/regular jack stands (~16"), large jack stands (24"), or a lift?
I have used just standard jack stands to drop the transmission but didn't pull it out from under the car. I imagine you would have to roll it off the trans jack for more clearance and then drag it out.
Most important is that your jack can get the car high enough.
1) I jack up the back end to remove the cat portion of exhaust, powerplant frame and driveshaft then drop it back down.
2) Remove shifter from inside the cab of the car. Stuff a rag in the open hole.
3) Jack up front end, remove accessories, drain and drop trans. Pull it out the front since it is pitched up and will have more clearance. If needed you can jack the car up another few inches and use the highest setting on the jack stands.
The ratchet strap is kind of overkill, I removed it on mine and cut the wings off that it attached to. Also is a big help to have 2 people doing the job.
Once you get the trans down, get the jack out from under it and you can scoot it out from beneath the car.
The FD is not a bad car to do a clutch job on all things considered. Do make sure you understand the push style clutch, watch some videos on that.
Transmission jack is great but if you don't have one it really isn't too bad to balance it on a regular jack and have somebody else work the jack while you guide it in and hold it from falling. You can also bench press but it gets heavy really fast if you don't successfully stab it right away.
What dale said, be careful with removing the trans from the engine, since the car is a pull type clutch, it requires special procedures to remove. Don't just disconnect the tranny bolts and go pulling, you'll break something or get very frustrated at the least.
What dale said, be careful with removing the trans from the engine, since the car is a pull type clutch, it requires special procedures to remove. Don't just disconnect the tranny bolts and go pulling, you'll break something or get very frustrated at the least.
Quoted for truth! Years ago I was unaware of this and had never encountered a design like this before. I was convinced the trans was seized onto the motor, LOL. Anyways... it is easy to remove, just have to know where to press
As tall as the bell housing + room for jack under it.
Simple grade school math.
Won't happen with regular jack stands. That's kind of what he's asking. You'd need truck jack stands or a lift to roll it out on a trans jack. You'll have to push it off the jack under the car and drag it out. A piece of cardboard may help.
I've done the "floor jack and a board" method for ages and also the "two or three guys bench pressing it" method for transmission install. First time I used the trans jack it was amazing - being able to carefully and perfectly line the transmission up and slide it home without fighting it is huge.
If you will only be doing it once in the next 10 years I don't know if it's worth buying the transmission jack - just man up and fight that dude into place.
BTW, doing this job on a lift with a proper trans jack for a lift and air tools is HEAVEN. I can do a clutch job in 2 hours on a lift.
I've done the "floor jack and a board" method for ages and also the "two or three guys bench pressing it" method for transmission install. First time I used the trans jack it was amazing - being able to carefully and perfectly line the transmission up and slide it home without fighting it is huge.
If you will only be doing it once in the next 10 years I don't know if it's worth buying the transmission jack - just man up and fight that dude into place.
BTW, doing this job on a lift with a proper trans jack for a lift and air tools is HEAVEN. I can do a clutch job in 2 hours on a lift.
Dale
Agreed. I'd kill for a lift and air tools for my upcoming five speed swap. Going to dread climbing under the car. But at least with a five speed swap, most of the manual driveline components that would be old and worn are going to be new and fresh, so...less work/potential for things to break later.
Agreed. I'd kill for a lift and air tools for my upcoming five speed swap. Going to dread climbing under the car. But at least with a five speed swap, most of the manual driveline components that would be old and worn are going to be new and fresh, so...less work/potential for things to break later.
Air tools are obsolete now. The Milwaukee M18 line of cordless impacts is where it is at. The "mid-torque" will do 90% of what you need. The "high-torque" is good for axle/flywheel/pulley bolts. I also have the M12 stubby impact which gets behind wheel wells and transmissions.
the trans can 100% be removed from under the car with normal jack stands. it what i do in the garage every 6 months just because. the car doesnt need to be that high. once you drop the trans you slide it out tail end first then he bellhousing part is slid from under the car through the driver wheel well. i use a piece of cardboard under it to help drag it along the floor. im using the normal short jack stands from walmart. the orange 2 ton ones.
also, the trans isnt so heavy that one man cant drop it while laying on his back. i pull it out slowly, lay it on my chest and then do a sort of roll off. it will be on its side. i come out, roll it on its bottom and then remove it like i mentioned above. if try and just pull it straight out then yes, the car will need to be as high as the bellhousing..... which is really high. this is as high as the car needs to be to remove or install the trans.
…….BTW, doing this job on a lift with a lift and cordless tools is required for old people these days. I can do a clutch job in 1 cigar and a couple of beers on a lift.
As tall as the bell housing + room for jack under it.
Simple grade school math.
For the pull-style clutch, it looks like what you need to do is remove the two access port covers, and use your hands or a screwdriver to push the ring in all the way on all sides, and then pry the release bearing off in the opposite direction? So this is something you do all at once, and once the bearing has been pulled back, you are free to pull the bellhousing/tranny off?
Last edited by mkd; 12-23-19 at 01:47 AM.
Reason: spelling
you only need to do it from the 1 access cover on the bottom. push it in on the left and then on the right. you will flatten the ring in 2 or 3 stages. using a pry bar works the best since you can push on the ring and the fork at the same time. once the ring seats, the fork will just release itself... once the clip is disengaged then yes, pull the trans off.
you only need to do it from the 1 access cover on the bottom. push it in on the left and then on the right. you will flatten the ring in 2 or 3 stages. using a pry bar works the best since you can push on the ring and the fork at the same time. once the ring seats, the fork will just release itself... once the clip is disengaged then yes, pull the trans off.
Anything special to consider for re-installation? Or just slide it right back on?
use the clutch alignment tool if you removed the clutch...
small amount of grease on the splines..
make sure the motor is level or leaned back..
you do NOT need to force the trans in. it will just slide in with minimal effort. if you are fighting it then something is wrong. stop and figure it out before you hurt anything
If you’re reusing the pilot bearing, now is the time for a small daub of grease on it. Not too much though, otherwise the hydraulic pressure will fight you reinstalling the input shaft.
If you’re reusing the pilot bearing, now is the time for a small daub of grease on it. Not too much though, otherwise the hydraulic pressure will fight you reinstalling the input shaft.
Should I re-use it? I have a new bearing and the Atkins tool, but the current one, while being 26 years old, only has 30K miles. I’m tempted to not fix something that is not broken, especially since I’ve heard a lot of people bitch about it being a pain.
10-10-19, 10:47 AM
