Rotory

iTrader: (1)

Ive searched already and havent found anything good on removing the transmission. I have an 88 TII and I can no longer put it into 5th gear. I have a spare tranny I can put in there, but I was wondering should i get someone to do it or would it be easy enough for me to do with my 94pc Craftsman tool set? I really need some help guys..I only have another car to drive to work for 1 week so I need to have this finished within 1 week. Any helpful tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


James

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

if you have someone to help you it shouldn't take you more than a day.... it's a pretty easy job.. remove the speedo cable, remove all the bolts, remove the starter, remove the driveshaft, remove the shifter, remove the transmission. Installation is the reverse of assembly.

Mr. Gadget

And watch out for the wiring. Its easiest to get the top two bolts at 1 and 2pm once the tail shaft is hanging down.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

wow you mean the removal of 2 tranny's and installation of another should only take one day?? well i can take a day or two off and try it...will i have to mess with the clutch or anything or is it just throwing the tranny in ..matching the holes up and hooking everything back up? An what wiring should i watch out for?? Thanks guys...you people are life-savers!!

James

Mr. Gadget

The wiring that goes to the reverse lights and 5th gear. The connectors are usually shot or corroded.

I found it easiest to drop part of the exhaust. Day one spray PB all over rusted nuts/bolts that you will be removing.

Day two, AM drop tranny, replace clutch, throw up new tranny. Crack open six pack.

geargrabber

transmission removal and installation is not that hard... if you're a big guy, like me, you can muscle the tranny out, and back in again.

From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.

Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).


Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)

Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...

The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.

Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.

the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)

now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...

now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.

geargrabber

transmission removal and installation is not that hard... if you're a big guy, like me, you can muscle the tranny out, and back in again.

From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.

Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).


Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)

Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...

The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.

Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.

the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)

now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...

now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.

A Haynes book will help lots!(pep-boys)

geargrabber

oops double post.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

thanks gear grabber...well you think i should just take the good tranny out of my parts car and bring my good car and the good tranny to a transmission shop or should i try to put it in my good car by myself?

geargrabber

if you can take the tranny out of your parts car, you will be able to put one in... its not that hard.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

cool well i think im going to try it then... im not a very big huge strong guy so i dont know if i will be able to hold a tranny or do anything with one by myself and i dont have many friends who would come slave away on a hot *** day to help me so im still pretty unsure....guess we will find out tomorrow

geargrabber

Here's a lesson i learned while doing all this...

Dont use excessive force when loosening or tightening bolts on the exhaust system, you run the risk of spinning the stud, wich now makes the nut permanent on the stud. Use an impact wrench on the difficult bolts.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

thanks thats great advice i guess i can gut my cats while everything is apart right

chris-reedtn

Yea man, it really is very easy, and the tranny isnt that heavy even if your not a big guy, im not, and i can carry mine around without a problem.

-Chris

bliffle

Use a hydraulic Transmission jack with wheels to support the trans while you slide it in or out. Otherwise it's a bear to wrestle that thiing in. They're about $30 around here at Kragens, and can be rented at rental places. And get a wooden clutch centering tool : no matter how careful you are you'll disturb the clutch plate.

B

Bigretardhead

WTF? a wood clutch alignment tool?
also, you only need that when you're changing the clutch. once the clutch is installed there's no need for it any more. the friction plate is not going to move

oh, and don't forget to remove the slave cylinder. its bolted on top of the tranny.

a transmission jack would make the job MUCH easier, but with it, oyu may not be able to slide the transmission out from under the car unless you have a monster jack and jack stands.

oh, and I'd recommend leaving the car in neutral before pulling the shifter out. it'll make it much easier to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff.

Rotory

iTrader: (1)

Excellent advice man...guess im going to get started in a day or so

liquidferrum

be careful not to let the tranny angle down while the input shaft is still in the clutch/pilot bearing you can bend things that way, its not as hard as it seems, but just dont let that happen, and also make sure the bellhousing is all the way up against the back of the engine, ie dont force it in by tightening the bolts, otherwise you can damage your input shaft

might wanna check if your pilot bearing is alright while your under there, if you decide to change that, it will probably be the most difficult thing unless you get the mazda pilot bearing puller thing, it took me well over 6 hours to get it out without any neato tools

good luck and have fun =D
liquidferrum

geargrabber

i have a pilot bearing removal tool, it cost over a hundred bucks from mazdatrix. Too bad you dont live by me, i'd rent it to you.