Transmission Removal
Transmission Removal
Ive searched already and havent found anything good on removing the transmission. I have an 88 TII and I can no longer put it into 5th gear. I have a spare tranny I can put in there, but I was wondering should i get someone to do it or would it be easy enough for me to do with my 94pc Craftsman tool set? I really need some help guys..I only have another car to drive to work for 1 week so I need to have this finished within 1 week. Any helpful tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
James
James
if you have someone to help you it shouldn't take you more than a day.... it's a pretty easy job.. remove the speedo cable, remove all the bolts, remove the starter, remove the driveshaft, remove the shifter, remove the transmission. Installation is the reverse of assembly.
wow you mean the removal of 2 tranny's and installation of another should only take one day?? well i can take a day or two off and try it...will i have to mess with the clutch or anything or is it just throwing the tranny in ..matching the holes up and hooking everything back up? An what wiring should i watch out for?? Thanks guys...you people are life-savers!!
James
James
Older than Dirt
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 0
From: Parts Unknown
The wiring that goes to the reverse lights and 5th gear. The connectors are usually shot or corroded.
I found it easiest to drop part of the exhaust. Day one spray PB all over rusted nuts/bolts that you will be removing.
Day two, AM drop tranny, replace clutch, throw up new tranny. Crack open six pack.
I found it easiest to drop part of the exhaust. Day one spray PB all over rusted nuts/bolts that you will be removing.
Day two, AM drop tranny, replace clutch, throw up new tranny. Crack open six pack.
I rolled down a mountian
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
From: garden grove, california
transmission removal and installation is not that hard... if you're a big guy, like me, you can muscle the tranny out, and back in again.
From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.
Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).
Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)
Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...
The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.
Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.
the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)
now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...
now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.
From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.
Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).
Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)
Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...
The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.
Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.
the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)
now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...
now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.
I rolled down a mountian
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
From: garden grove, california
transmission removal and installation is not that hard... if you're a big guy, like me, you can muscle the tranny out, and back in again.
From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.
Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).
Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)
Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...
The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.
Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.
the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)
now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...
now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.
A Haynes book will help lots!(pep-boys)
From inside the car you need to take your shifter out. Remove the **** --unsrew the nut under **** and the **** itself will unscrew.
To remove the plastic cover and shift boot, grab from the inside rear and pull up. CAREFULLY remove the 2 outer boots. Loosen and remove three bolts on the inner boot and pull up, the shifter will come out.
Now you need to drain the tranny oil. Unplug any wires that go to the tranny. Disconnect the speedo (unscrew it, and pull it out).
Next remove the exhaust system and heat shields(its in the way)
Remove the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the rear end...
The propeller shaft will slide out of the transmission now, but be warned OIL WILL COME OUT, plug the hole with something... i used a cap from a bottle that fit in there pretty tight., if not use a baggy and zip ties or something.
Now, remove the starter, bolts & nut that mate the tranny to the engine (TOP: 2 bolts , and a nut in the middle) (BOTTOM: one right, and any by the starter) you can access all the bolts & nut from under the car, its eaiser really. You need a couple of 6" drive extensions a u-joint.
the only thing left is to remove the tranny mount(i removed the four bolts and left the middle nut alone)
now get under the trany with your head pointed towards the engine and take the four bolts out, the tranny will drop down a bit, you have to hold it...
now with your knees holding the tranny aroud the tranny mount, and both hands on the bellhousing, slide the tranny out of engine... thats it man, nothing to it... its a bit more difficult putting one back in the same manner... i would suggest getting help from someone.
A Haynes book will help lots!(pep-boys)
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thanks gear grabber...well you think i should just take the good tranny out of my parts car and bring my good car and the good tranny to a transmission shop or should i try to put it in my good car by myself?
cool well i think im going to try it then... im not a very big huge strong guy so i dont know if i will be able to hold a tranny or do anything with one by myself and i dont have many friends who would come slave away on a hot *** day to help me so im still pretty unsure....guess we will find out tomorrow
I rolled down a mountian
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
From: garden grove, california
Here's a lesson i learned while doing all this...
Dont use excessive force when loosening or tightening bolts on the exhaust system, you run the risk of spinning the stud, wich now makes the nut permanent on the stud. Use an impact wrench on the difficult bolts.
Dont use excessive force when loosening or tightening bolts on the exhaust system, you run the risk of spinning the stud, wich now makes the nut permanent on the stud. Use an impact wrench on the difficult bolts.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,815
Likes: 0
From: SF BayArea
Use a hydraulic Transmission jack with wheels to support the trans while you slide it in or out. Otherwise it's a bear to wrestle that thiing in. They're about $30 around here at Kragens, and can be rented at rental places. And get a wooden clutch centering tool : no matter how careful you are you'll disturb the clutch plate.
B
B
Rotary Freak
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,739
Likes: 0
From: Boulder, CO
And get a wooden clutch centering tool : no matter how careful you are you'll disturb the clutch plate.
also, you only need that when you're changing the clutch. once the clutch is installed there's no need for it any more. the friction plate is not going to move
oh, and don't forget to remove the slave cylinder. its bolted on top of the tranny.
a transmission jack would make the job MUCH easier, but with it, oyu may not be able to slide the transmission out from under the car unless you have a monster jack and jack stands.
oh, and I'd recommend leaving the car in neutral before pulling the shifter out. it'll make it much easier to unbolt the driveshaft from the diff.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 251
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin =(
be careful not to let the tranny angle down while the input shaft is still in the clutch/pilot bearing you can bend things that way, its not as hard as it seems, but just dont let that happen, and also make sure the bellhousing is all the way up against the back of the engine, ie dont force it in by tightening the bolts, otherwise you can damage your input shaft
might wanna check if your pilot bearing is alright while your under there, if you decide to change that, it will probably be the most difficult thing unless you get the mazda pilot bearing puller thing, it took me well over 6 hours to get it out without any neato tools
good luck and have fun =D
liquidferrum
might wanna check if your pilot bearing is alright while your under there, if you decide to change that, it will probably be the most difficult thing unless you get the mazda pilot bearing puller thing, it took me well over 6 hours to get it out without any neato tools
good luck and have fun =D
liquidferrum
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