Accessing and replacing the OMP
#1
Rotary Optimist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Accessing and replacing the OMP
Found nothing on the search.
I'm looking for some help in getting to my OMP. Initially, I need to get to the harness for electrical testing. BUT, I expect I'm going to have to remove and replace the OMP altogether.
Are there any online pics/diagrams/instructions for this procedure?
I'm looking for some help in getting to my OMP. Initially, I need to get to the harness for electrical testing. BUT, I expect I'm going to have to remove and replace the OMP altogether.
Are there any online pics/diagrams/instructions for this procedure?
#3
Lives on the Forum
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
I'm not fully up on the procedure as I had Rick's Rotary replace mine, but it is a bitch of a job and will take you at least 8 hours of solid work. I take it you don't have a service manual? Download one for free from www.iluvmyrx7.com.
hit the link and scroll down a little ways and you can see a pic of the oil metering pump and get an idea of what's involved (also a nice lesson of why NOT to buy the Unorthodox pulley)
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/unxhoror.htm
hit the link and scroll down a little ways and you can see a pic of the oil metering pump and get an idea of what's involved (also a nice lesson of why NOT to buy the Unorthodox pulley)
http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/unxhoror.htm
#4
Do it right, do it once
iTrader: (30)
Assuming the car is stock....
Remove airbox and airpump, access to the OMP will be easy through the hole. If you need a little more room remove upper radiator hose and heater hose that are in the way.
To remove wiring/ unplug I think you'll need to remove the alternator and vacuum tank down by the PS and a/c pumps. The wiring wraps around the water pump becareful removing it. It is a big job to remove the oil injectors, you must remove the injectors which involves removing the upper intake manifold, coils and then the solenoid rack. You might consider just cutting the lines and capping them off.
Good enough?
Jeff
Remove airbox and airpump, access to the OMP will be easy through the hole. If you need a little more room remove upper radiator hose and heater hose that are in the way.
To remove wiring/ unplug I think you'll need to remove the alternator and vacuum tank down by the PS and a/c pumps. The wiring wraps around the water pump becareful removing it. It is a big job to remove the oil injectors, you must remove the injectors which involves removing the upper intake manifold, coils and then the solenoid rack. You might consider just cutting the lines and capping them off.
Good enough?
Jeff
#5
Rotary Optimist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by rynberg
hit the link and scroll down a little ways and you can see a pic of the oil metering pump and get an idea of what's involved (also a nice lesson of why NOT to buy the Unorthodox pulley)
hit the link and scroll down a little ways and you can see a pic of the oil metering pump and get an idea of what's involved (also a nice lesson of why NOT to buy the Unorthodox pulley)
I have been looking at the FSM, but I've found NO pics or diagrams of the OMP or the area around it.
I did find a helpful troubleshooting section for the OMP - but I need to get to the harness to test. Where is it? What's it under/behind?
#6
Rotary Optimist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by turbojeff
Assuming the car is stock....
Remove airbox and airpump, access to the OMP will be easy through the hole. If you need a little more room remove upper radiator hose and heater hose that are in the way.
Assuming the car is stock....
Remove airbox and airpump, access to the OMP will be easy through the hole. If you need a little more room remove upper radiator hose and heater hose that are in the way.
#7
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (126)
omp
it helps to loosen the airpump and remove the belts. the bolts are the trickiest part. i bought a craftsman 10mm socket flat wrench for the job. there is enough room for one click of the wrench so it will take a while. the worst bolt is the bolt toward the back underneath the heat shield. make sure you put the small rubber gasket thing back on because i forgot and had to do the damn thing over again. to make it easier to put back on, i removed the heat shield. hope this helped some.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Optimist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Starting removing stuff!
I began the process of getting to the OMP today. I will be going slowly since I don't have a big chunk ot time to dedicate to this. So far, I have only removed the air box and its hoses. I thought I would document the entire process since I couldn't find anything good with pics. I guess someone else can learn from my mistakes (which I am sure to make). This will also help me see how to put everything back together. Here's a link to pics of the process.
http://www.cerebralmedia.com/rx7/omp_removal
If anyone has anything to add, please do - I'm just fumbling my way down there.
Will I have to jack up the car and access stuff from beneath?
http://www.cerebralmedia.com/rx7/omp_removal
If anyone has anything to add, please do - I'm just fumbling my way down there.
Will I have to jack up the car and access stuff from beneath?
#9
Rotary Optimist
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just realized I was looking for the MOP wiring harness in the wrong place because of the bad reproduction quality of the online FSM. (I still appreciate it though). Anyway, I found the harness under the elbow - next to the alternator. I wish someone had told me.
I tested on the harness using an ohm meter and the FSM metering oil pump troubleshooting section. Unfortunately, I believe I have confirmed that the MOP is bad and must be replaced. I guess I'm not surprised.
Next, I need to know if removing the air pump will be enough to give me access to the MOP - or will I have to remove some turbo stuff??
I tested on the harness using an ohm meter and the FSM metering oil pump troubleshooting section. Unfortunately, I believe I have confirmed that the MOP is bad and must be replaced. I guess I'm not surprised.
Next, I need to know if removing the air pump will be enough to give me access to the MOP - or will I have to remove some turbo stuff??
Last edited by FD Seeker; 04-11-02 at 10:52 PM.
#10
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey,
FD Seeker,
Was reading through your link on how to replace the OMP and then it just ended abruptly as you were trying to take out the pressure tank/vacuum chamber!(I was learning lots to this point) Any chace of a step by step guide on the remaining steps in this proceedure?
Did you get it out and how?
Did you have to remove the turbos?
I have to do the same job as my wiring harness got chewed up!
Thanks,
George.
FD Seeker,
Was reading through your link on how to replace the OMP and then it just ended abruptly as you were trying to take out the pressure tank/vacuum chamber!(I was learning lots to this point) Any chace of a step by step guide on the remaining steps in this proceedure?
Did you get it out and how?
Did you have to remove the turbos?
I have to do the same job as my wiring harness got chewed up!
Thanks,
George.
#11
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I replaced mine a last year. It was a pain, but do-able if you have nimble hands. No, the turbos do not have to come out. However, I did have to remove the intercooler, that box your're referring to, the oil filler neck, the air box (obviously) and the air pump. You can maneuver around by loosening the alternator. Some people say they had to remove the water pump, but I did not find that necessary. Hope this helps.
#13
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Not sure why, but some of the pictures don't want to load. If you have any questions or need pictures, let me know. I also recommend ordering up new copper washers for the OMP lines and a new OMP 'O' ring/seal. Neither should be very expensive and you DO NOT want to risk a leak and have to do it again.
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
I just did the job on a friends car follow Jim's instructions. The only thing we did to improve things was drain the radiator/water pump housing so that we could detach the upper radiator hose. This improved access from the front.
Jim, if you could attach the pics in another post at the bottom of your thread I will rework the first post to use the attached photos instead of the photobucket ones.
There is one of the 3 mounting bolts on the pump that is toward the top and back of the OMP that is just plain difficult. We used two people - one person to insert the wrench and torque the bolt, and one person to hold the OMP and guide the wrench socket onto the bolt. From there it's not too bad.
I agree with replacing the crush washers. It's also the perfect time to change the coolant hoses on the stock turbos.
Dave
Jim, if you could attach the pics in another post at the bottom of your thread I will rework the first post to use the attached photos instead of the photobucket ones.
There is one of the 3 mounting bolts on the pump that is toward the top and back of the OMP that is just plain difficult. We used two people - one person to insert the wrench and torque the bolt, and one person to hold the OMP and guide the wrench socket onto the bolt. From there it's not too bad.
I agree with replacing the crush washers. It's also the perfect time to change the coolant hoses on the stock turbos.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 03-05-09 at 06:55 PM.
#16
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Now that you mention it, I remember having the same trouble. That one you absolutely can't see because of the shielding on the OMP.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
[For Sale] Scratch & Dent, Used, and Open-Box Sale!
SakeBomb Garage
Vendor Classifieds
5
08-09-18 05:54 PM