I got my S5 TII box now, but the syncro rings are pretty screwed in 2nd and 3rd, so the fast shifts are non existant for me.

When I get the money for a gearbox, it will be bought.

I guess my choices are:
FC TII gearbox
FD gearbox
FE gearbox (<- too much work for me with the mounts and shaft)

What is the best choice here?

Now I got a MazdaTrix TII box <-> NA diff shaft, but if I swap box I also swap diff, so I would need a regular TII LSD or Kaaz one, so that is pretty okay for me. Anyone knows if the stubs from the S4 TII LSD fits the S4 NA ones I got? Just saving some cash heree :P

But back to the gearbox, the gear ratios, are there any benefitial ones on either of the gearboxes from the FC or FD? I wouldn't mind a FE box with custom 6th gear, but that is way out of my league in money and skills (and anyone in a radius of 1000 miles I think).

All gearbox and diff input appreciated, thanks

EDIT: Dang, can't edit the title. Well, the oil injectors that gets the oil into the combustion chamber and engine, can these leak? Are they more prone to leaking than a gasket?

 

TII stubs wont work in a NA diff and vise versa.

Id just get a replacement tII diff, then you can play with different diffs.. I personally went wiht a S4 TII diff since it has alot more potential to be rebuild or modded and beefier stub axles.

 

Also the S5 is the crappy viscous, don't want that.

But the Kaaz diffs gotta be rebuildable? If not, i'd rather get a S4 TII and get it to lock a bit firmer for some casual sideways.

 

mazda has 4 different RWD rotary transmissions.

the M type is the NA one

the R type is the T2/FD transmission. these are all basically the same except for little detail changes. so the gearing is all the same, IE not so hot. the FD trans requires a new rear mount and a different pressure plate.

the Y type, is the 2004-2008 rx8 transmission. its made by aisin. the gearing is really good, but it is not the 5 speed with a super tall overdrive, its the competition gearing with a granny 1st. IE its a close ratio. overdrive is SHORTER than the 5 speeds, so highway rpm goes UP.

these have a reputation for being fragile, but its not really based in reality. the internals are BEEFY. they DO have problems with the shift linkage, but there are fixes.

putting it in; the clutch on the rx8 is the same as a t2, but you need to fab up a mount, plus the shifter is further forward, AND there is no speedo drive

the P type. 2009+ rx8. this is another 6 speed, this one is mazda built, and shares its roots with the 5 speed ford ranger transmission. gearing is similar to the P type. the early versions had problems with the shift forks breaking, and they like to pop out of gear.

mounting it is just like the Y type.

IMO just rebuild the T2 trans, the parts are inexpensive, even from mazda.

 

Well, I gotta find someone who can do that then. One thing, if I EVER use this car for anything else than fun, roadtrips and casual sideways action in the streets (a), I will never get use for the 5th gear as a racecar would, is it possible to change the gears in the 5th to get a better ratio for cruising?

As I said, it is used for lots of stuff, the 5th gear is only used on cruising/roadtrips, where I want my mileage to be as good as possible. Ofc, when I get my Haltech, it will be better than now (23mpg atm).

But my heavy oil usage, anyone got a clue to this? Might use half a litre per 500km-1000km (I got miles, not kms on my trip, so I don't know)

 

It would be very rare for the oil injector to leak itself, but the brittle lines that go to them are prone to cracking and therefore leaking.

 

the FD has a taller 5th that works, and there might be a piston engine car that has something too.

1 liter in 2000km's is totally normal, in fact these engines are supposed to use that much.

 

I got some numbers from the workshop on oil in the exhaust gases, unburnt oil. 1300 something, normal cars had up to 350. What these numbers are? Dunno, but if you know, it could tell you and me something about my oil usage.

 

I've asked before, but do I need a SAFC or standalone to get rid of the original AFM? Swap to a hot or cold wire MAF ie.?

It doesn't restrict that much, but I guess a bit, and a wire doesn't exactly restrict so. With a better intake and exhaust, I would gain a small bit. Just figuring, until I get myself some standalone to have fun with

 

Rotary engines inject oil into the combustion chamber by design. So you can't compare its oil numbers to a normal car.

 

You can''t just get rid of the Afm Unless you go standalone.
Just because you have an SAFC,doesn't mean that you can eliminate the Part that tells you how much air is going to the engine and compensates fuel.
The Stock Afm is good for at least 400 hp..then it becomes a hinderance.Unless you plan on Going above that,then you can keep it until your finances allow you to ditch it.!!!