ok finished up my turbo swap today, went to start it, got spark,got air,got timing, NO Fuel, no injector pulse, no ticking nothin, tried 2 ecus (popped my1st one ( rtek )over a stupid battery terminal mislablel) , check ohms on CAS checked out, did the fule pressure jumper and it builds pressure, cranks great, just no pulse, im going to try to swap my injectors wed when i have time, just seeing if im missing anything

 

Where did you get your motor? Did you get it complete?

 

So the battery cables were hooked up backwards? That can pop fuses and fry circuit boards all over the car.

 

When I had injector pulse problems it ended up being the injector wires. They are old and get real stiff then start to crack. Check continuity between injectors and ecu look for inconsistencies.

 

motor was picked up from kahren, so its good, and i tested circuits all over the car . nothing that could affect starting is affected , just misc thing like rear def light is always on and my gauge cluster instruments dont work, and ill check out the wires wed, and the positive note is my rtek only was damaged on 2 capacitors so with some creative soldering and a spare ecu thats should be good, maybe i just have a set of bad primaries, just trying to see what ppl think caus ive been up wayy too long and have been doing problem trees from the fsm all day.

 

Yeah sounds like you fried some electrolytic capacitors, but it looks like you have that under control.

Knowing that the ecu supplies a ground to actuate the injectors, I would get a multimeter and connect the ground to the injector pin going to the ecu and then connect the positive to battery source voltage and crank the car and see what you get. Then check to see that you have voltage at the injector plug while cranking. Also in case you don't know only the primary injectors should have voltage when cranking.

 

well its sad i fried that nice rtek, but its only 3 capacitors on positive and negative side so its not a total loss (i hope) with a steady soldering hand that is lol

 

well 2 updates

1.) just realized my post title says trubo instead of turbo hahahaa
2.) Injectors wont click if u dont have a resistor pack plugged in to complete the circuit :/

so going to get a resistor pack today and hope for the best !

 

damn reed dont worry well getter done.. mr foster is a genious and we have all the other **** in school like i told you.. good luck on your road trip dude..

 

UPDATE :

so i got the resistor pack in and got it to start.....once

now it will crank and crank and flood, got fuel and spark

it just does not want to start, i have reset the timing 3x, im really not sure why it wont start at all.... i had it started, as long as i kept it at 1/4 throttle it would stay started... not really sure wtf could have changed, before i had air, spark, and timing was set, no fuel.... and it reallly wanted to start..... any help is appreciated

if by chance the AIT decided to take a **** would the car not start ?

 

Subscribed. EXACT same problem with mine.
I know that my injectors are good, 2 ECUs, 2 distributors, 2 fuel pumps...

Loosing paintence...

 

try a differant air flow meter

 

YES im also starting to lose patience.... i also tried 2 ecu, 2 Cas, and i know i got good fuel pump, im going to try and get a diff afm,

i was thinkin FPR but then i wouldnt have a flooded engine :/

well next step is check afm , deflood and try again

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...67&postcount=3
ima try this see what happens

 

ok had a little time to work on the 7 and heres what i got so far :

Grounding : any given ground point anywhere is > 0.50Ω (highest was around 0.43Ω) - Seems decent to me

AIT - Air intake temp sensor now the FSM has testing this with a resistor starting it etc... (ecu is getting repaired ) , so i was testing Ω's and at the sensor is 16.1Ω and raised by .10Ω increments went 16.1Ω - 16.2Ω - 16.3Ω.....etc all the way to 19.70Ω when i stopped...
(maybe the issue)

Next on Agenda :

Water Thermo Sensor :
MAF :

I'll keep ppl posted on the progress


i should add a list of mods :
0 emissions
TB Mod
No BAC
FMIC
rtek 1.7
s5 turbo
FD Fuel Pump

 

What I do is take the black cover off the CAS and line up the dots and then watch the top part of the CAS to make sure it doesn't move when I try and set it in and if it does I can reset it and try again making sure the gear doesn't move and then once its in adjust the CAS to where the two dots lined up. Some engines its full CAS adjustment left or right. Usually never will the dots and everything line up and the CAS will be between its rotation adjustment. Works every time.

No vac leaks right?

You can unplug the AIT sensor completely and you wouldn't notice a difference in starting and idle.

Wait... no BAC on a turbo engine? What about the idle screw? Yes you can remove the BAC... sort of. Unplug it and remove and cap the coolant lines going to it, but you need its idle set screw to set the idle unless you have a JDM upper intake manifold meaning you have an idle set screw on the top right about where the throttle cable bracket is. Or you might be able to adjust one of the intake valve stop screws, but sometimes they're a pain in the *** to get to. Not really sure why people like removing the BAC. It weighs one pound, allows the ECU to maintain the idle if there is a load on the engine at idle, and not many people know this, if you take the BAC off and plug it in and watch the little valve it has; it opens up completely when you start cranking. It adds that little extra amount of air to help fire the engine while not adding extra fuel like using your right foot would. I personally use them because they serve a good purpose or Mazda wouldn't have put them on the engine anyways. My 87' TII has manual steering and no AC, from factory, but it still has the BAC. Anyways, the BAC isn't your starting problem, but it is useful and in turbo engines, it sets the idle with its little screw on the side.

Whats your TPS set at? (this too won't keep it from firing but helps). Get it close to 1 volt at idle. You'll need to lift up on the little arm and screw above the thermo wax which is in front of the throttle cable connector arms because the thermo wax raises the idle when the engine is cold and by doing so it moves the throttle open a little. Lifting up on the little arm and screw simulates the the engine being warm and then you can set the tps closer to 1 volt.

Are the trailing wires on right? Leading wires don't matter. ... but that wouldn't keep it from firing.

I'm running out of ideas. Check timing again with my little idea just to make sure and try using a different AFM. NA AFM's on turbo engines make the engine run rich. Not sure if it keeps them from starting but I imagine it wouldn't help. Make sure you have a good turbo AFM.

 

reed remember the timing kept changing..well the cas kept changin.. if i remember correctly it would stop opposite of where it should be.
the car has no vaccum leaks... and i think he has the jdm upper intake.

i personally believe its a sensor.. leaning towards the air intake temp or the afm.. since we replaced the cas with a almost known working one.

reed like i said bud my cars in the garage your more then welcome to use my sensors to test or wat ever.
-buddah

 

WOOOOOO ! .. .so my problem was.... the crank pulley can be mounted 4 different ways so ill use 0° - 90° - 180° - 270° (using 0 as the timing marks) so if u set the timing marks to the peg and rotate the pulley so the timing marks are 90° from the peg and try to start the car, if not then 180°. and finally 270° . hope this helps someone caus it only took me like 10 weeks to figure this out :/

 

The 4 holes on the main pulleys are asymmetric so you should not be able to install it any way but the correct one. Stock pulleys, right? Maybe someone took a file to the holes on yours

 

no idea... all i know is that i though there was only one way to mount the pulley , but when i turned the pulley about 90 degrees and reset the CAS it fired right up :/