Tranny rebuild thread attempt #2
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tranny rebuild thread attempt #2
ok sorry to the 11 guys that checked this out i messed somthing up or yeah, didn't put down what i had to say, sure thought i did though but here it is again, or for the first time who knows. I am rebuilding my tranny (N/A S5) at home by using hand tools of assorted variety in place for the speclity tools. I have manged to take care of the pressed on bearings with out even nicking the shaft now i am at the final snag from what it looks like for me to get the the heart of all the syncros. There is a nut there, not sure what size it is all i know is it is bigger then 1 1/2inch and smaller then 2 inch. Any tricks to getting this off and then getting it back on a tourqeing it down to the 100+ ft lb spec with out damageing the shaft?
#2
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
Buy a socket that fits the nut. Take it to a machine shop and have them bore the center to fit over the shaft and weld on a long piece of bar stock for a handle. You now have a long wrench that slides over the shaft. Place the trans in a vice and engage 4th and 1st. Selecting two gears at once will lock the trans and keep the output shaft from rotating. Remove the nut. Install the same way.
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Buy a socket that fits the nut. Take it to a machine shop and have them bore the center to fit over the shaft and weld on a long piece of bar stock for a handle. You now have a long wrench that slides over the shaft. Place the trans in a vice and engage 4th and 1st. Selecting two gears at once will lock the trans and keep the output shaft from rotating. Remove the nut. Install the same way.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well thanks for the ideas guys found my own. I bought a 6 point 42mm 3/4inch drive (prolly better off with a 41mm but was a 6 point so it didn't matter to much) cut the socket in half so the nut side was seprate from the driveside. Then took 17inches of pipe and welded the ends of the socket to the ends of the pipe, let it cool, ground down the top of the nut end to fit in the ring around the nut. Then used a 3/4-1/2 reducer and a impact gun. Two quick taps of the gun and it broke free. Unlike your methods i will still be able to torque the nut back down to the 100-140ftlbs to ensure proper loading and quality of the transmisson. Thaks for your imput guys. ;-)
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Take a pic of this 'contraption' you made. I would like to see it to get a better idea of what you are talking about.
From what I gather...you cut the socket in half and welded each half to opposite ends of the pipe? Is this right?
From what I gather...you cut the socket in half and welded each half to opposite ends of the pipe? Is this right?
#6
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Toronto ON
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sorry to be chiming in late here, not sure if this has been covered, but -
ska - there is some good DIY tranny advice on miata.net. Same tranny, only detail differences to the case. Also, if you can find or borrow - the Ron Gardner book about Miata maintenance (title is something like the Mazda Miata Enthusiasts Manual) has a fully illustrated teardown & rebuild.
ska - there is some good DIY tranny advice on miata.net. Same tranny, only detail differences to the case. Also, if you can find or borrow - the Ron Gardner book about Miata maintenance (title is something like the Mazda Miata Enthusiasts Manual) has a fully illustrated teardown & rebuild.
#7
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
Take a pic of this 'contraption' you made. I would like to see it to get a better idea of what you are talking about.
From what I gather...you cut the socket in half and welded each half to opposite ends of the pipe? Is this right?
From what I gather...you cut the socket in half and welded each half to opposite ends of the pipe? Is this right?
No. I'll take a pic.
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by slvr7
sorry to be chiming in late here, not sure if this has been covered, but -
ska - there is some good DIY tranny advice on miata.net. Same tranny, only detail differences to the case. Also, if you can find or borrow - the Ron Gardner book about Miata maintenance (title is something like the Mazda Miata Enthusiasts Manual) has a fully illustrated teardown & rebuild.
ska - there is some good DIY tranny advice on miata.net. Same tranny, only detail differences to the case. Also, if you can find or borrow - the Ron Gardner book about Miata maintenance (title is something like the Mazda Miata Enthusiasts Manual) has a fully illustrated teardown & rebuild.
I already have the complete guide i just didn't want to pay out my *** for the specailty tools.
#10
www.lms-efi.com
iTrader: (27)
Originally Posted by ska3260
Well thanks for the ideas guys found my own. I bought a 6 point 42mm 3/4inch drive (prolly better off with a 41mm but was a 6 point so it didn't matter to much) cut the socket in half so the nut side was seprate from the driveside. Then took 17inches of pipe and welded the ends of the socket to the ends of the pipe, let it cool, ground down the top of the nut end to fit in the ring around the nut. Then used a 3/4-1/2 reducer and a impact gun. Two quick taps of the gun and it broke free. Unlike your methods i will still be able to torque the nut back down to the 100-140ftlbs to ensure proper loading and quality of the transmisson. Thaks for your imput guys. ;-)
That's better way to do it and the thought occured to me after I put this one together. This works well though and will work for those who don't have air tools.
http://www.kyrotary.com/rrxp689/P3160040.JPG
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bossier City, LA
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ska3260
Well thanks for the ideas guys found my own. I bought a 6 point 42mm 3/4inch drive (prolly better off with a 41mm but was a 6 point so it didn't matter to much) cut the socket in half so the nut side was seprate from the driveside. Then took 17inches of pipe and welded the ends of the socket to the ends of the pipe, let it cool, ground down the top of the nut end to fit in the ring around the nut. Then used a 3/4-1/2 reducer and a impact gun. Two quick taps of the gun and it broke free. Unlike your methods i will still be able to torque the nut back down to the 100-140ftlbs to ensure proper loading and quality of the transmisson. Thaks for your imput guys. ;-)
Can you take a picture of this so we can see?
#16
Lava Surfer
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Kailua, HI
Posts: 2,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
one of the FD guys did a tranny rebuild writeup complete with a ton of pics, and while it is not the same tranny it is at least similar. he has it in large .pdf files hosted on a site. i'm sure you can find it if you search for it, he even has pictures of the 14" long 41mm socket he made and is willing to rent out his "specialty" tools.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
driftfcbuckey
The Bad & Fugly Members
10
12-02-15 05:48 PM
FD3S_wanted
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes
4
09-22-15 06:18 PM