DaJedicc27

Retested the cas at ecu harness using shorter jumper wires and they were good cleaned the grounds again and still no go

DaJedicc27

Rechecked the cas at the ecm with shorter jumpers and it tested good cleaned the ground under the trailing coil and still no spark

satch

iTrader: (1)

The engine ground?

DaJedicc27

Yea

DaJedicc27

I even hooked a jumper cable from the battery to the engine im talking to some one to get an esm so I can check that off the list.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There's no need for jumpers of any kind to ohm test the CAS at the ECU. One meter lead goes to pin 3G (White wire) and the other meter lead to pin 3H (Red wire). Reading is then taken. Then the meter lead from the White wire is shifted to the Blue wire at pin 3E and the second reading is taken. Plug is removed from the ECU for this type of test.

DaJedicc27

I know my meter leads were to big so I just put a wire in each pin and just touched the wire ends with the meter

DaJedicc27

I added a ground straight from the battery to the engine jusing an inch diameter copper wire and replaced the ecm still so start but sounded different. Don't know if it's because of the cold or weak battery so going to charge the battery and retest the trigger at the coils to see if I'm getting any spark

satch

iTrader: (1)

Can't remember, but did you ever try starting fluid?

DaJedicc27

New fuel,fuel filter, new plugs, new computer green yellow wire is going from 0v to 4.96v. Fully charged battery new plug wires, primed the fuel system by jumping the wire on the right finder fuel pump kicks on. Engine 15 amp fuse is good, egr dues is good, will not start. Even used starter spray still will not start.

DaJedicc27

Cas was good when I spun the engine over by hand could hear the clicking from the injectors and was trigger the coils

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to verify spark at the lead coil. It's good that the G/Y wire is now doing what it's supposed to be but you still need to see if you have spark at the lead coil. And could you remind us if you ever tested compression of the engine.

Also, when using starter spray (1 to 2 seconds at most) it is good to use to deflood an engine but if the engine is flooded then you would want to deactivate the fuel pump as opposed to having it running. To kill the pump all you have to do is pull the circuit opening relay.

DaJedicc27

I'm getting spark to all the plugs. Going to do a compressions test now. Should I pull the both plugs or just the leading

satch

iTrader: (1)

One plug on each housing at a time. And you might try deflooding the engine as previously mentioned (relay pulled). And make sure the plugs are dry.

DaJedicc27

Checked t1 and t2 for compresion, needle barley bounced and i took out the check valve out.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

If youre not getting any compression on any face, youre probably doing something wrong.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Or there is something VERY wrong

DaJedicc27

Thinking still had bad gas at the injectors when I pulled the plugs they were wet and smelled like varnish. So going to turn it over till I smell good gas then put the plugs in and see if she start in the morning.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Try starter fluid.

satch

iTrader: (1)

He tried starter fluid and it would not start which might mean the engine is severely flooded, the plugs are too wet to fire or the compression is just too low. He was advised to pull the circuit relay to prevent additional fuel from interfering with the deflooding procedure when using starter fluid.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

take the valve out of the hose, not the tester itself.

DaJedicc27

Plugs are good deflooded it with plugs out used A.t.f spoon the engine over to lube everything. Checked spark again shocked my self so it's good un plugs the fuel relay and spray starter spray in it turned it over and nothing. Hooked up the relay and still nothing

DaJedicc27

I'm going to say compression is good because can't turn engine over with plugs in it. I tryed to test it again and doing it like a piston engine and nothing.