starting problems
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starting problems
I have a 89 that will not start. Thought it was the battery and bought a new one. When I go to start it, it clicks and kills all power to every thing then I have to unhook that battery and hook it back up to get power. Thinking its the starter but never had a starter do that before. And when I turn the key forward the fuel pumps is not turning on
#2
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I have a 89 that will not start. Thought it was the battery and bought a new one. When I go to start it, it clicks and kills all power to every thing then I have to unhook that battery and hook it back up to get power. Thinking its the starter but never had a starter do that before. And when I turn the key forward the fuel pumps is not turning on
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#8
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There are two types of ignition fuses, those that retain power w/key to start and those which lose power w/key to start. The lights, radio, wipers etc would lose power w/key to start while the 15 amp engine fuse keeps power w/key to start so the necessary items to start the car allow the car to start. Does this sound like what is happening to your car?
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#9
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Yea I pressed in the clutch, and no have not tried to jump it because of the new battery, everything works fine as it should till I try to start it press in the clutch turn the key to start there's a click then nothing I lose all power. Even after I turn the key off then back to the acc or run nothing until I un hook and reconnect that battery
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Is the starter solenoid part of the starter or is it separate and if so where is it located. I'm going to pull the starter tomorrow and have it tested. Never had a car just lose all power until I undo the battery
#13
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When I had this same problem on my car I found that the positive battery wire on the starter and the single starter activating wire on the starter solenoid were both melted so you could check those connections if the other suggestions weren't the problem.
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Thanks for the help all the thermal connectors to the battery was corroded and the wire it self cut 2 in of wire to get to good wire and that fixed that problem thanks again. Now to get it running this weekend lol
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Ohhhh k. So cars turning over but no spark and fuel pumps not turning on checked the resistance in the coils and the angle Sensor and both are good but no spark how do I check to see if their getting power
Last edited by DaJedicc27; 09-21-15 at 12:24 PM.
#17
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No spark could be caused by the following:
Coils need to bolted to the fender for grounding purposes or they won't work.
The coils are powered by the Black/Yellow wire and thus should have 12 volts w/key to on.
The 15 amp engine fuse (interior fuse box) is blown.
EGI fuse in the engine bay is blown.
And the fuel pump will not power up w/just key to on but w/key to start or key to on w/the fuel check connector jumpered or key to on and the AFM cone pressed upon.
Coils need to bolted to the fender for grounding purposes or they won't work.
The coils are powered by the Black/Yellow wire and thus should have 12 volts w/key to on.
The 15 amp engine fuse (interior fuse box) is blown.
EGI fuse in the engine bay is blown.
And the fuel pump will not power up w/just key to on but w/key to start or key to on w/the fuel check connector jumpered or key to on and the AFM cone pressed upon.
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Engine 15 amp fuse was blown replaced it fuel pump kicked on but still no spark. I have 3 plugs unplugged under the fwd coils all female ends and no male ends around am I missing some thing or is that normal
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Getting 12 volts to the fwd coils and 0 volts to the aft coils now I have an s5 n350 on the fwd coils its an n327 and the aft is an n326 dose that mean anything at all
#25
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How are you checking for spark? A good way is to remove the plug wires from the coil's bore and rest the plugs wires just against the coil bores and w/key to start there should be flashes of spark going on. As far as measuring the voltage w/key to start it would be somewhat difficult I would think when using a digital meter as the meter might not be sensitive enough to get an accurate reading.