RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

here is what i would do if i were you.

1)check the coils by laying the wires near a ground on the chassis and check for arcing- ignition verified

2) remove the plugs after attempting to start the car and see if they are wet with fuel or smell of fuel- fuel verified

3) run a compression tester with the schraeder valve removed from the hose length(you should be able to blow through it both ways) and see what each pulse on the gauge reads from each rotor. they should be at the very least 75psi at the lowest peaks in order for the engine to want to start with any ease- compression verified


those are the 3 simple basics of what an engine needs to run. if your tach is bouncing during cranking, that usually will rule out #1.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Another thing to check is the Green/Yellow wire at the lead coil. This wire is the trigger for the coil and w/o the trigger from the ECU the coil will not fire. W/key to on the G/Y wire should read one value and as the engine is rotated by hand via rotating the alternator pulley the value on the meter used to measure voltage will quickly flash a different voltage and then back to the reading initially read. As the engine is rotated slowly this change will occur repeatedly. The voltage goes from 0 volts to 5 volts or 5 volts to 0 volts.

DaJedicc27

So spinning the engine by hand 0 volts, when I crank it over .72 volts

DaJedicc27

On the G/Y wire. Still 12 volts on the b/y

DaJedicc27

Did the spark plug test no spark at the plugs when grounding it. Cleans the coils to make sure theirs a good ground. According to the wire chart I have the right volts, ohms to every thing so think coils are bad they are a Mich match set a n326 and a n327 and I think its support to be n350

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Do this. If your coils are good, swap out your ECU.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The voltage on the G/Y wire stays at 0 volts after spinning the main pulley? If by cranking you mean w/key to start then that will tell you nothing. If the 1st statement is true then either the ECU is not sending the proper signal to the G/Y wire or you're not testing the wire properly. Again, the G/Y wire is the trigger for the coil. If it doesn't read properly then the coil could not possibly work even if the coil was proven to be in working order. It's possible that the CAS is not sending the proper signal to the ECU which in turn then gives the ECU the proper info to send the correct signal to the coil so the coil can fire the leading plugs. I would retest the G/Y wire, and remember, the voltage only shifts from one value to another for a very, very brief time and it is easy to not see the transition.

DaJedicc27

Retested everything we talked about. Still tach. Not bouncing and g/y wire not getting voltage to at all and I spon the engine slow. Now other then the ohms test on the CAS is there a way to see if its sending a signal to the ecm so I could replace just that and not wast money replacing the ecm then the cas

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

cancel

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you pull the CAS and keep it plugged in and spin it with the key to on then you should hear some clicking. If everything was good you would hear clicks from the coils and the primary injectors. Since your coils apparently are not getting the proper signal you should at least hear sounds/clicks from the primary injectors. If you hear nothing then there is either a connection problem, a CAS problem or even possibly an ECU problem (which is least likely of the three possibilities). If you pull the CAS you will have to reset it once you place it back in.

DaJedicc27

No clicking of the injectors when spinning the cas used a s4 cas and still the same nothing so going ro clean and check all connections

satch

iTrader: (1)

If it appears that the connections are all is well it could be that the metal sheathing around each wire is coming in contact with the inner part of the wire, in this case the copper wire, and since the metal sheathing, used to limit electrical interference which is grounded to the body might be coming in contact with each other and shorting out a CAS wire, which would interfere with the signal being sent to the ECU.

If this were the case then you could test each wire to see if there is a short. To do so the CAS needs to be unplugged followed by unplugging the smallest plug from the ECU containing the CAS wires and performing a continuity to ground test. You take a multimeter set to continuity and you place one meter lead to the CAS wire (the wire coming from the ECU and not the wire coming from the CAS itself because when unplugged it's connected to nothing) and the other meter lead to a sufficient ground and if the meter rings out then the wire being tested is shorted (not good).

jaseraserx7

I just came across this thread and had a flashback to my GXL. A rat had gotten to it and I had to rewire a lot of things. When I finally went to go start it up it had the same reaction. It would kill the power instantly. I ended up finding a short underneath the main relay by the trailing coil. fixed that and got my fire back.

jaseraserx7

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DaJedicc27

Thanks I will try it after work tomorrow or sun at the latest. Found a wire thats not broke off ill try to up load a pic wed or thur. But thanks again for all the help.

DaJedicc27

Unhooked the harness from the ecu and nothing is grounded out. Before I did that I unhooked the csa and turned the key to on. tested the power and on the n2 and g2 I get like .03 volts and nothing on n1 and g1. if I do a continuity test n2 and g2 has continuity and n1 and g1 has nothing. Can I take the ecu to a shop and get it tested? Would that be expensive. Also tested the main relay and it worked as it should but was not bolted down just laying their.

DaJedicc27

How much of a pain would it be to just put an msd ignition in it or sence I can't get a trigger to my coils it's not going to send it to the msd ignition

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ECU could not receive power on the CAS wires when unhooked as the CAS being spun sends the signal to the ECU. Did you ever test the CAS using the ohm method. And you could always unplug the AFM and try the test of the Green/Yellow wire at the lead coil (and doing the G/Y wire test with everything hooked up at the ECU might be a good idea as well). And testing the main engine ground might also be a good idea. There 4 ground wires at the ECU and they all should read 0 volts w/key to on.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

an MSD won't fix jack. your injectors aren't firing, nor is the fuel pump. you sure your engine fuse is good?

no power to/from the ECU is generally one of the following:

blown EGI fuse
blown engine fuse(inside cabin)
faulty main relay
faulty ignition switch

DaJedicc27

The cas passed the ohms test tested every wire from the cas to the ecu and their all good. Checked to make sure g/Y wire was good and not shorted from the ecu to coil.

DaJedicc27

They have an 88 at the junk yard could I use the csa out of it on my 89

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

all CAS and coils are the same from 1986 through 1991.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Do you remember what the ohm reading for the CAS was? Forgot if it was mentioned, but did you pull error codes?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

I see you got your name back.

DaJedicc27

158.1 and 157.6 ohms