starting problems
#79
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Early on you stated power was being cut w/key to start. Did you get that rectified?
You need to see if the ECU has power w/key to start or not as that would explain a whole bunch. Pin 1B, B/W wire, should have power not just w/key to on, but also w/key to start.
You need to see if the ECU has power w/key to start or not as that would explain a whole bunch. Pin 1B, B/W wire, should have power not just w/key to on, but also w/key to start.
Last edited by satch; 10-13-15 at 07:24 PM.
#81
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So pin 1B has 12 volts w/key to start? (I ask because w/the starter turning over the voltage usually drops some). You might also want to jumper the fuel check connector and unplug the AFM to see if the sensor is interfering or not. And if you placed one end of an LED light in pin 3W (Light Green wire) and the other pin to 1B, the light should flash w/key to start indicating the ECU was trying to fire the primary injector (plug connected to the ECU here).
Last edited by satch; 10-14-15 at 07:58 AM.
#82
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Sorry 12v in the on pos, and it did drop when trying to start. Jumped the fuel check connector and unpluged the amf. Pluged the ecu up and put a test light on the b1 and w3 pins and did not get any flashing or any thing
#83
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Either the CAS, ECU or perhaps the ECU engine grounding is suspect. Pins 3A and 3B are two of the ECU grounds, thus w/key to on they should both read 0 volts. And there is a Black ground wire to the right of the ECU which is bolted to the body which grounds the metal sheathing around the CAS wires. Most will say this sheathing does not have to be grounded but I distinctly remember one member in particular who could not get the car started (was not getting spark) and he noted the sheathing was not grounded and after grounding the car started up. I'm just throwing some things out there to remove them from possibly being your issue. And you can also open up the ECU and see if there is some obvious internal damage.
#84
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Tested the ground wires and no voltage to them and checked to make sure they were grounded and they were checked the geound to the right of the esm and it was good also. Opened up the esm and everything looked good nother was broke or burned looking. Put it all together and still not starting
#87
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Pulled the lid to the cas and it does spin. Quick question is their a fuel cut of swith for of it was in an accident that woild cut fuel and spark? Their is no sigh of this car being in one but maybe it went bad. Could not find anything about one in the manual.
#94
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K, this is dumb.
You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.
You also never came back with the results from the compression check.
Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.
Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.
Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.
Am i missing anything?
Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.
You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.
You also never came back with the results from the compression check.
Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.
Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.
Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.
Am i missing anything?
Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.
Last edited by FührerTüner; 10-20-15 at 08:59 AM.
#95
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K, this is dumb.
You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.
You also never came back with the results from the compression check.
Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.
Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.
Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.
Am i missing anything?
Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.
You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.
You also never came back with the results from the compression check.
Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.
Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.
Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.
Am i missing anything?
Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.
#96
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Did not do the compression test because I had no spark or fuel. Check the cas conection at the ecm I am getting ohms at the ecm plug but its alot lower then at the csa itself.