2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 10-13-15, 05:27 PM
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And never got any codes got the car needing a fuel pump and harness and no battery
Old 10-13-15, 05:59 PM
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Which harness was missing?
Old 10-13-15, 06:03 PM
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The section going to the fuel pump some one cut it up
Old 10-13-15, 06:05 PM
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Early on you stated power was being cut w/key to start. Did you get that rectified?

You need to see if the ECU has power w/key to start or not as that would explain a whole bunch. Pin 1B, B/W wire, should have power not just w/key to on, but also w/key to start.

Last edited by satch; 10-13-15 at 07:24 PM.
Old 10-14-15, 07:48 AM
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Yea I fixed that problem replaced the terminal ends and cut back the wire to good wire, so no lose of power, and tested the b1pin and I get 12 volts
Old 10-14-15, 07:54 AM
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So pin 1B has 12 volts w/key to start? (I ask because w/the starter turning over the voltage usually drops some). You might also want to jumper the fuel check connector and unplug the AFM to see if the sensor is interfering or not. And if you placed one end of an LED light in pin 3W (Light Green wire) and the other pin to 1B, the light should flash w/key to start indicating the ECU was trying to fire the primary injector (plug connected to the ECU here).

Last edited by satch; 10-14-15 at 07:58 AM.
Old 10-14-15, 09:29 AM
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Sorry 12v in the on pos, and it did drop when trying to start. Jumped the fuel check connector and unpluged the amf. Pluged the ecu up and put a test light on the b1 and w3 pins and did not get any flashing or any thing
Old 10-14-15, 10:08 AM
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Either the CAS, ECU or perhaps the ECU engine grounding is suspect. Pins 3A and 3B are two of the ECU grounds, thus w/key to on they should both read 0 volts. And there is a Black ground wire to the right of the ECU which is bolted to the body which grounds the metal sheathing around the CAS wires. Most will say this sheathing does not have to be grounded but I distinctly remember one member in particular who could not get the car started (was not getting spark) and he noted the sheathing was not grounded and after grounding the car started up. I'm just throwing some things out there to remove them from possibly being your issue. And you can also open up the ECU and see if there is some obvious internal damage.
Old 10-14-15, 03:19 PM
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Tested the ground wires and no voltage to them and checked to make sure they were grounded and they were checked the geound to the right of the esm and it was good also. Opened up the esm and everything looked good nother was broke or burned looking. Put it all together and still not starting
Old 10-14-15, 04:31 PM
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the most important engine ground is to the engine block.
Old 10-14-15, 07:32 PM
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If you popped off the lid of the CAS and turned the engine over be it by hand or not does the inside wheel spin?
Old 10-19-15, 05:11 PM
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Pulled the lid to the cas and it does spin. Quick question is their a fuel cut of swith for of it was in an accident that woild cut fuel and spark? Their is no sigh of this car being in one but maybe it went bad. Could not find anything about one in the manual.
Old 10-19-15, 05:24 PM
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A fuel cut switch would not prevent spark or the injectors clicking though. The ECU controls whether the pump works or not but that is after the car starts and the rpm rises above 500.

Last edited by satch; 10-19-15 at 05:27 PM.
Old 10-19-15, 05:39 PM
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Im at a lose then. Thinking about taking to a shop 2 months of messing with this car and still no progress. Little aggravating
Old 10-19-15, 05:41 PM
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If I took the ecu in could they hook something up and test it
Old 10-19-15, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DaJedicc27
If I took the ecu in could they hook something up and test it
No. When you did the ohm test of the CAS did you take it from the CAS pigtail plug or the plug connected to the ECU?

You could buy a replacement CAS (used) for probably $25 or so.

Last edited by satch; 10-19-15 at 09:19 PM.
Old 10-20-15, 12:49 AM
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From the cas pigtails
Old 10-20-15, 02:04 AM
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Try unplugging the plug at the ECU and do it from there as you might find the plug of the pigtail might not be mating well w/the harness in which it plugs into.
Old 10-20-15, 08:56 AM
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K, this is dumb.

You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.

You also never came back with the results from the compression check.

Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.

Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.

Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.

Am i missing anything?

Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.

Last edited by FührerTüner; 10-20-15 at 08:59 AM.
Old 10-20-15, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
K, this is dumb.

You never answered the question of how the new plugs looked after trying to start. This will tell you a lot. If theyre wet, you most likely have a spark problem, or a timing problem. If theyre dry, you obviously have a fuel problem.

You also never came back with the results from the compression check.

Plugs wet? Already checked all grounds and hots (coils, ecu), and no broken or corroded wires? Verify timing, replace AFM, replace ECU, Replace CAS.

Plugs dry? Check for fuel pressure. Check 12v at fuel pump and injectors.

Plugs wet and verified no spark? Check all fuses, wires, replace ecu.

Am i missing anything?

Im gonna call this problem on a fuse.
The lead coil has a Green/Yellow wire which triggers the coil to fire. If he tested it properly it shows the ECU is not sending the proper signal, so anything after the ECU is irrelevant at this part. Also, the ECU is not triggering the primary injectors w/key to start either. The problem is likely the main engine ground, CAS and or its connection or the ECU.
Old 10-20-15, 10:25 AM
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Did not do the compression test because I had no spark or fuel. Check the cas conection at the ecm I am getting ohms at the ecm plug but its alot lower then at the csa itself.
Old 10-20-15, 10:33 AM
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And is the main engine ground the one on the engine tranny bolt or the one off the left side if the intake going to the firewall
Old 10-20-15, 11:03 AM
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Cleaned the 2 grounds off the left side of the intake and aginst the firewall. Plugs are dry rechecked for spark (none)
Old 10-20-15, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DaJedicc27
Did not do the compression test because I had no spark or fuel. Check the cas conection at the ecm I am getting ohms at the ecm plug but its alot lower then at the csa itself.
The results need to quantified as in using numbers as opposed to subjective connotations.

Last edited by satch; 10-20-15 at 01:19 PM.
Old 10-20-15, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DaJedicc27
And is the main engine ground the one on the engine tranny bolt or the one off the left side if the intake going to the firewall
On an S5 it is found on top of the engine itself and towards the front left part of the engine.


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