She Followed Me Home, Honest
Naturally, the search was more difficult than it might appear- most vents are fastened from the underside and require significant dash disassembly to get to...and I wasn't in the mood.
So, I was limited to vents that would pop out and the search finally turned up a '97 BMW 3 series that looked very promising.
They look like this:
For only $4 it looked like a reasonable risk and they turn out to be very close...I think they can be made to work. The arc is almost perfect but the BMW pieces are longer and will need some Dremel work to fit...we'll see how it goes.
First though I'm going to use the Hobby Lobby foam to pad the underside of the metal defrost garnish/bezel and install it without the vents. This will confirm that it's not this piece rattling, just the vents themselves.
I hope.
never even looked at my BMW to notice the similarity.. but then again it is the next generation anyways, a little tougher to find than the E36 series which tend to litter the yards.
The BMW vents aren't going to work.
They fit, but poorly- the arc is off and the plastic is too stiff to easily reshape, so it leaves unsightly gaps that I'd have to deal with.
Ah well, it happens.
I applied foam sheet to the likely contact points on the underside of the garnish (even made foam "washers" for the six pop pins...jeez, I hate those things) and put the garnish back in sans vents.
Had some errands to run and was able to see (or hear, actually) an improvement but still, there are creaks/groans. On the return trip I removed the garnish altogether and now know that the entire damn dash makes noise.
Not a lot mind you, this car is decidedly quieter than the '91 and quite a pleasant environment but I now realize that focusing on the vents alone isn't really going to solve the "problem".
I had the dash completely apart and am confident that the reassembly was correct, there's just too much plastic on metal contact...too much plastic in general, I suppose.
Anyway, the garnish is back in place (still without vents) as I ponder the next move.
It's snowing today and I don't anticipate having to move...going to reconsider the intake yet again.
Although the current "shorty" intake seems to work well (or at least, not worse), other than being somewhat different I see no real advantage to it and the filter location right above the exhaust manifold can't be a good thing.
Going to refit the stock airbox methinks, assuming it'll fit around the mounting flange for the sidepanel.
Could be tight.
They fit, but poorly- the arc is off and the plastic is too stiff to easily reshape, so it leaves unsightly gaps that I'd have to deal with.
Ah well, it happens.
I applied foam sheet to the likely contact points on the underside of the garnish (even made foam "washers" for the six pop pins...jeez, I hate those things) and put the garnish back in sans vents.
Had some errands to run and was able to see (or hear, actually) an improvement but still, there are creaks/groans. On the return trip I removed the garnish altogether and now know that the entire damn dash makes noise.
Not a lot mind you, this car is decidedly quieter than the '91 and quite a pleasant environment but I now realize that focusing on the vents alone isn't really going to solve the "problem".
I had the dash completely apart and am confident that the reassembly was correct, there's just too much plastic on metal contact...too much plastic in general, I suppose.
Anyway, the garnish is back in place (still without vents) as I ponder the next move.
It's snowing today and I don't anticipate having to move...going to reconsider the intake yet again.
Although the current "shorty" intake seems to work well (or at least, not worse), other than being somewhat different I see no real advantage to it and the filter location right above the exhaust manifold can't be a good thing.
Going to refit the stock airbox methinks, assuming it'll fit around the mounting flange for the sidepanel.
Could be tight.
Another version of the intake (what, # 20, maybe?):
The front panel trailing edge (along the rad) has been propped up with foam (opening in front of the snorkel), so she's pulling air from above the rad now. Sweet, cold air.
Mmmmmm.
If this arrangement stays (and history would suggest that it won't), the panel side by the airbox will need some trimming. I'm leery of doing anything irrevocable until it's been proven to work, so it'll stay in this state for a while (i.e., at least a day).
The front panel trailing edge (along the rad) has been propped up with foam (opening in front of the snorkel), so she's pulling air from above the rad now. Sweet, cold air.
Mmmmmm.
If this arrangement stays (and history would suggest that it won't), the panel side by the airbox will need some trimming. I'm leery of doing anything irrevocable until it's been proven to work, so it'll stay in this state for a while (i.e., at least a day).
I have a hypothetical question...
Was just looking at a NA waterpump housing and noticed it had the boss cast into it for the turbo water return, undrilled/tapped in NA application.
Suitably drilled, tapped and benippled wouldn't this port make a workable heater return location?
I'm interested because radiator selection would expand greatly if the lower bung didn't require the second nipple for the heater return line, it makes the FC rad very unique.
Some of my interest is aesthetic...ever since converting to efan and non-stock intake(s), the shape of the stock upper rad hose has irritated me. It is quite convoluted to clear components that are no longer present (the intake snorkel, in particular) and looks silly in free space. A standard radiator with straight bungs would allow for a generic hose to be used instead of the twisty/turny OEM part. It would be relatively trivial to reconfigure the thermostat cover/upper hose outlet to point straight at the rad instead of first turning sideways.
Now I'm just winging it...
A secondary mod the new return port would enable might be completely deleting the stock metal tube that runs down the frame rail to the radiator, replacing it with a much shorter and direct tube bolted to the engine/intake.
And what's the point of all this?
With a suitably sized/configured radiator I could do this:
That's a flat panel intake from a Camaro (IROC Z, maybe?), another strong (and more likely) contender is the Corvette "airbridge" intake:
Either of these could be configured to work with the rotary but more importantly, are exactly perfect for the (inevitable) piston engine conversion.
And they look bitchin.
Alright, so there's a lot of blue skying here but the heater line mod could be done with the current setup (just cap the bung on the rad) and the line relocation (if that turns out to be possible/desirable) could be integrated into the already planned renovation of the engine harness (which I was unable to do last fall because the engine was not in place).
I've learned that even the most trivial seeming alterations can cascade into unintended complexity, so I try to anticipate and correct the secondary issues before the fun stuff begins.
So, any reason rerouting the heater line wouldn't be OK?
Was just looking at a NA waterpump housing and noticed it had the boss cast into it for the turbo water return, undrilled/tapped in NA application.
Suitably drilled, tapped and benippled wouldn't this port make a workable heater return location?
I'm interested because radiator selection would expand greatly if the lower bung didn't require the second nipple for the heater return line, it makes the FC rad very unique.
Some of my interest is aesthetic...ever since converting to efan and non-stock intake(s), the shape of the stock upper rad hose has irritated me. It is quite convoluted to clear components that are no longer present (the intake snorkel, in particular) and looks silly in free space. A standard radiator with straight bungs would allow for a generic hose to be used instead of the twisty/turny OEM part. It would be relatively trivial to reconfigure the thermostat cover/upper hose outlet to point straight at the rad instead of first turning sideways.
Now I'm just winging it...
A secondary mod the new return port would enable might be completely deleting the stock metal tube that runs down the frame rail to the radiator, replacing it with a much shorter and direct tube bolted to the engine/intake.
And what's the point of all this?
With a suitably sized/configured radiator I could do this:
That's a flat panel intake from a Camaro (IROC Z, maybe?), another strong (and more likely) contender is the Corvette "airbridge" intake:
Either of these could be configured to work with the rotary but more importantly, are exactly perfect for the (inevitable) piston engine conversion.
And they look bitchin.
Alright, so there's a lot of blue skying here but the heater line mod could be done with the current setup (just cap the bung on the rad) and the line relocation (if that turns out to be possible/desirable) could be integrated into the already planned renovation of the engine harness (which I was unable to do last fall because the engine was not in place).
I've learned that even the most trivial seeming alterations can cascade into unintended complexity, so I try to anticipate and correct the secondary issues before the fun stuff begins.
So, any reason rerouting the heater line wouldn't be OK?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,816
Likes: 3,219
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the FD has the heater hose nipple in the water pump housing, so yes?
actually on my 3 rotor, i used a piece of pipe in the lower radiator hose, and i put the heater nipple in that pipe
actually on my 3 rotor, i used a piece of pipe in the lower radiator hose, and i put the heater nipple in that pipe
it would work but you would probably have to TIG a nipple onto the housing, threading a fitting onto such a thin bit of aluminum it would likely leak since it wouldn't clamp evenly on the uneven radius when threaded in.
a T junction like j9fd3s mentioned would be the best alternative.
a T junction like j9fd3s mentioned would be the best alternative.
Another version of the intake (what, # 20, maybe?):
The front panel trailing edge (along the rad) has been propped up with foam (opening in front of the snorkel), so she's pulling air from above the rad now. Sweet, cold air.
Mmmmmm.
If this arrangement stays (and history would suggest that it won't), the panel side by the airbox will need some trimming. I'm leery of doing anything irrevocable until it's been proven to work, so it'll stay in this state for a while (i.e., at least a day).
The front panel trailing edge (along the rad) has been propped up with foam (opening in front of the snorkel), so she's pulling air from above the rad now. Sweet, cold air.
Mmmmmm.
If this arrangement stays (and history would suggest that it won't), the panel side by the airbox will need some trimming. I'm leery of doing anything irrevocable until it's been proven to work, so it'll stay in this state for a while (i.e., at least a day).
Of course, the car hasn't moved since Saturday, but still.
While I was fiddling with the airbox, it became necessary to remove the front airbox bracket and I dropped it...naturally.
It disappeared onto the bellypan somewhere but I can't find it, so the pan must come off. This will actually assist in removing the final pieces of an earlier intake, pieces that were wedged between the rad and the framerail and are only accessible from the bottom.
This is why I hate working in the cold.
I wouldn't have dropped it in the first place, had I been able to feel my fingers.
Having dropped it however, jacking up and crawling under the car wouldn't be such a big deal if the concrete floor wasn't -100°, intent on sucking the life from every point of contact.
Oh woe, woes is me and my first world problems!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,816
Likes: 3,219
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
It's already at Day 3, nearing a record.
Of course, the car hasn't moved since Saturday, but still.
While I was fiddling with the airbox, it became necessary to remove the front airbox bracket and I dropped it...naturally.
It disappeared onto the bellypan somewhere but I can't find it, so the pan must come off. This will actually assist in removing the final pieces of an earlier intake, pieces that were wedged between the rad and the framerail and are only accessible from the bottom.
This is why I hate working in the cold.
I wouldn't have dropped it in the first place, had I been able to feel my fingers.
Having dropped it however, jacking up and crawling under the car wouldn't be such a big deal if the concrete floor wasn't -100°, intent on sucking the life from every point of contact.
Oh woe, woes is me and my first world problems!
Of course, the car hasn't moved since Saturday, but still.
While I was fiddling with the airbox, it became necessary to remove the front airbox bracket and I dropped it...naturally.
It disappeared onto the bellypan somewhere but I can't find it, so the pan must come off. This will actually assist in removing the final pieces of an earlier intake, pieces that were wedged between the rad and the framerail and are only accessible from the bottom.
This is why I hate working in the cold.
I wouldn't have dropped it in the first place, had I been able to feel my fingers.
Having dropped it however, jacking up and crawling under the car wouldn't be such a big deal if the concrete floor wasn't -100°, intent on sucking the life from every point of contact.
Oh woe, woes is me and my first world problems!
i feel your pain :clinton:
Retrieval of the errant bracket and removal of the vestigial air duct was quick and easy.
Today I get to replace the garage door opener. I dimly recall installing this one about 15 years ago, so it's done a good job but needs to go.
Not really a fan of home repair/maintenance work, much prefer metal to wood.
Today I get to replace the garage door opener. I dimly recall installing this one about 15 years ago, so it's done a good job but needs to go.
Not really a fan of home repair/maintenance work, much prefer metal to wood.
It's already at Day 3, nearing a record.
Of course, the car hasn't moved since Saturday, but still.
While I was fiddling with the airbox, it became necessary to remove the front airbox bracket and I dropped it...naturally.
It disappeared onto the bellypan somewhere but I can't find it, so the pan must come off. This will actually assist in removing the final pieces of an earlier intake, pieces that were wedged between the rad and the framerail and are only accessible from the bottom.
This is why I hate working in the cold.
I wouldn't have dropped it in the first place, had I been able to feel my fingers.
Having dropped it however, jacking up and crawling under the car wouldn't be such a big deal if the concrete floor wasn't -100°, intent on sucking the life from every point of contact.
Oh woe, woes is me and my first world problems!
Of course, the car hasn't moved since Saturday, but still.
While I was fiddling with the airbox, it became necessary to remove the front airbox bracket and I dropped it...naturally.
It disappeared onto the bellypan somewhere but I can't find it, so the pan must come off. This will actually assist in removing the final pieces of an earlier intake, pieces that were wedged between the rad and the framerail and are only accessible from the bottom.
This is why I hate working in the cold.
I wouldn't have dropped it in the first place, had I been able to feel my fingers.
Having dropped it however, jacking up and crawling under the car wouldn't be such a big deal if the concrete floor wasn't -100°, intent on sucking the life from every point of contact.
Oh woe, woes is me and my first world problems!
The garage door opener installation went well, thanks for asking.
Then something happened, unprecedented in my experience...my RX-7 wouldn't start.
Judging by this forum, I've been extraordinarily fortunate with my two rotary cars (actually, one and a half cars since I carried the engine/tranny over from one chassis to the other), never suffering from the more common maladies we read about daily.
Part of this is no doubt due to hyper vigilance and proactive maintenance but I also think I've been very damn lucky as well.
I was almost amused as she tried to chug into life...I'd last been messing with the intake, surely I'd left the AFM unplugged.
No.
OK then, how about the two metered air feeds, not connected, maybe?
No.
Is the intake snorkel blocked?
No.
It was dusk in the driveway, so not the best lighting, but everything looked kosher.
Which was why it took ten minutes to discover the problem instead of two...the broken pressure sensor nipple/hose looked intact.
When I refurbed the intake I was able to use the vacuum spider that had already been gone through (all vacuum and fuel hoses), the only hose that was not personally vetted by me was the pressure sensor...I pulled it complete from the '90 and reinstalled it untouched a few months later.
I remember thinking I should get some vac line for it but never did...it worked.
Clearly, at some point as I bolted the stock airbox back in, I stressed this hose (already somewhat dry and crispy) and it snapped the nipple off the sensor. Because the hose had taken a set shape however, it was still sitting more or less where it had been for the last 23 years (?), not dangling in convenient sight (also note that the pressure sensor was not mounted in the stock location, I had it tucked away for looks).
Even as I began the search for the backup part I wondered if it was the intake leak or the weird signal to the ECU that was the main problem. I briefly considered just plugging the hose and seeing what would happen (basically, how important is the pressure sensor, especially at my altitude?) but I was on a mission for some Ben & Jerry's ( Justified was coming up later and that requires ice cream...) so the experimentation was delayed in favor of a repair.
As it happens, I now recall this very thing happening when I rehosed the vac spider the first time...I broke the nipple on the pressure sensor.
I took the time to fix it properly back then, made a metal nipple with a built in restrictor orifice (no longer need the pill in the hose) and significantly reinforced it.
Fortunately, I'm more organized than it appears and I was able to find and install the backup sensor in no time.
And Sweetheart fired right up, ice cream was procured and Justified was viewed...all is right in my world.
Today I'd like to do a final relocate of the sensor and get new hose for it, solve this problem once and for all.
Actually, "once and for all" means "until I redo the engine harness".
Right now my options for location are restricted by the length of the electrical harness but that will change dramatically with the harness makeover.
Then something happened, unprecedented in my experience...my RX-7 wouldn't start.
Judging by this forum, I've been extraordinarily fortunate with my two rotary cars (actually, one and a half cars since I carried the engine/tranny over from one chassis to the other), never suffering from the more common maladies we read about daily.
Part of this is no doubt due to hyper vigilance and proactive maintenance but I also think I've been very damn lucky as well.
I was almost amused as she tried to chug into life...I'd last been messing with the intake, surely I'd left the AFM unplugged.
No.
OK then, how about the two metered air feeds, not connected, maybe?
No.
Is the intake snorkel blocked?
No.
It was dusk in the driveway, so not the best lighting, but everything looked kosher.
Which was why it took ten minutes to discover the problem instead of two...the broken pressure sensor nipple/hose looked intact.
When I refurbed the intake I was able to use the vacuum spider that had already been gone through (all vacuum and fuel hoses), the only hose that was not personally vetted by me was the pressure sensor...I pulled it complete from the '90 and reinstalled it untouched a few months later.
I remember thinking I should get some vac line for it but never did...it worked.
Clearly, at some point as I bolted the stock airbox back in, I stressed this hose (already somewhat dry and crispy) and it snapped the nipple off the sensor. Because the hose had taken a set shape however, it was still sitting more or less where it had been for the last 23 years (?), not dangling in convenient sight (also note that the pressure sensor was not mounted in the stock location, I had it tucked away for looks).
Even as I began the search for the backup part I wondered if it was the intake leak or the weird signal to the ECU that was the main problem. I briefly considered just plugging the hose and seeing what would happen (basically, how important is the pressure sensor, especially at my altitude?) but I was on a mission for some Ben & Jerry's ( Justified was coming up later and that requires ice cream...) so the experimentation was delayed in favor of a repair.
As it happens, I now recall this very thing happening when I rehosed the vac spider the first time...I broke the nipple on the pressure sensor.
I took the time to fix it properly back then, made a metal nipple with a built in restrictor orifice (no longer need the pill in the hose) and significantly reinforced it.
Fortunately, I'm more organized than it appears and I was able to find and install the backup sensor in no time.
And Sweetheart fired right up, ice cream was procured and Justified was viewed...all is right in my world.
Today I'd like to do a final relocate of the sensor and get new hose for it, solve this problem once and for all.
Actually, "once and for all" means "until I redo the engine harness".
Right now my options for location are restricted by the length of the electrical harness but that will change dramatically with the harness makeover.
When I had a broken nipple on the pressure sensor I used a drip irrigation fitting and epoxied it on. Worked great.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Even as I began the search for the backup part I wondered if it was the intake leak or the weird signal to the ECU that was the main problem. I briefly considered just plugging the hose and seeing what would happen (basically, how important is the pressure sensor, especially at my altitude?) but I was on a mission for some Ben & Jerry's ( Justified was coming up later and that requires ice cream...) so the experimentation was delayed in favor of a repair.
The S4's had an atmospheric pressure sensor somewhere. Never looked for it before.
For $10 the HF Anti-Fatigue Foam Mats are IMHO a no-brainer. They do a fantastic job of insulating you from the heat sucking concrete and they are a lot easier on the old body. I dont get down on the floor without them.
My, what a spring we've been having, eh?
The weird whipsaw weather has severely curtailed my ability to work on the car- we've had 70° mornings followed by snow that night, but it looks like a real warming trend has begun and I've ventured a few minor updates.
Sweetheart has been running flawlessly, so I have no pressing issues to deal with.
Mostly I've been concentrating on piddly little cosmetic stuff and the intake.
Went through a number of variations of the "short" intake with K&N cone filters (I have three different filters of various sizes). I've known all along that this would never work well in warm weather (open filter in engine bay= high IATs) but I wanted to see if there was any noticeable change in driving characteristics (particularly torque) after eliminating the long accordian intake tube. I've had an idea for an intake for quite a while and this was just a data gathering opportunity.
However, with summer nearly here, it was time to get real again and so the stock airbox came out of retirement.
After reading a bit of recent discussion about "debaffling" the airbox, I decided to look into it.
Here are two shots of the inside of the stock S5 box:
My drop-in K&N panel filter did not have the distinct "half clean/half dirty" look that others have reported but I decided to remove the extra baffle in the box lid anyway, just to see:
I really don't see how this will make much (any?) difference but also didn't see how it could hurt, so what the hell. I can put the baffle back in if I want.
With the stock box back in place, my problem still wasn't solved as the snorkel needed to extend over the rad to draw ambient air from the nose of the car. I tried to accomplish this with a simple extension of the ABS block off panel made several weeks ago:
It's a little crude but seems effective, if it proves out I may remake the whole panel to incorporate it. Operative word there is "may".
While the panel was off I did some trimming- mostly rounding corners- in anticipation of the edge trim I'd like to use (which needs a radius to make a corner turn).
Also found a different recovery tank and am trying that out:
Like I said- piddly ****.
The only real "fix" I've made recently was swapping the kinda loose driver door lock cylinder with the one from the hatch, which has probably seen very little use. It's much more positive now.
Soon as the weather becomes reliably warm there are exterior cosmetics I'm considering...possibly going full panda with Plastidip, but that's still in the formative stages.
Later this week I'm going to talk it over with a professional dip garage with whom I have an inside connection. We'll see how that goes.
I was back under the chassis the other day, checking my work from last fall and was pleased to see that nothing loosened up or fell off and there isn't a single leak anywhere.
This bodes well for the big trip I have planned (3k+ miles in ten days) in late August.
Assuming the engine holds together, of course.
The weird whipsaw weather has severely curtailed my ability to work on the car- we've had 70° mornings followed by snow that night, but it looks like a real warming trend has begun and I've ventured a few minor updates.
Sweetheart has been running flawlessly, so I have no pressing issues to deal with.
Mostly I've been concentrating on piddly little cosmetic stuff and the intake.
Went through a number of variations of the "short" intake with K&N cone filters (I have three different filters of various sizes). I've known all along that this would never work well in warm weather (open filter in engine bay= high IATs) but I wanted to see if there was any noticeable change in driving characteristics (particularly torque) after eliminating the long accordian intake tube. I've had an idea for an intake for quite a while and this was just a data gathering opportunity.
However, with summer nearly here, it was time to get real again and so the stock airbox came out of retirement.
After reading a bit of recent discussion about "debaffling" the airbox, I decided to look into it.
Here are two shots of the inside of the stock S5 box:
My drop-in K&N panel filter did not have the distinct "half clean/half dirty" look that others have reported but I decided to remove the extra baffle in the box lid anyway, just to see:
I really don't see how this will make much (any?) difference but also didn't see how it could hurt, so what the hell. I can put the baffle back in if I want.
With the stock box back in place, my problem still wasn't solved as the snorkel needed to extend over the rad to draw ambient air from the nose of the car. I tried to accomplish this with a simple extension of the ABS block off panel made several weeks ago:
It's a little crude but seems effective, if it proves out I may remake the whole panel to incorporate it. Operative word there is "may".
While the panel was off I did some trimming- mostly rounding corners- in anticipation of the edge trim I'd like to use (which needs a radius to make a corner turn).
Also found a different recovery tank and am trying that out:
Like I said- piddly ****.
The only real "fix" I've made recently was swapping the kinda loose driver door lock cylinder with the one from the hatch, which has probably seen very little use. It's much more positive now.
Soon as the weather becomes reliably warm there are exterior cosmetics I'm considering...possibly going full panda with Plastidip, but that's still in the formative stages.
Later this week I'm going to talk it over with a professional dip garage with whom I have an inside connection. We'll see how that goes.
I was back under the chassis the other day, checking my work from last fall and was pleased to see that nothing loosened up or fell off and there isn't a single leak anywhere.
This bodes well for the big trip I have planned (3k+ miles in ten days) in late August.
Assuming the engine holds together, of course.
MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 3
From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Clokker, I've been trying to devise a way to make an "actual" cold air intake using the stock box, but havent quite got to the testing phase other than ideas in my head.
Now when you said you didn't have the dark side on the left side of the filter, I am surprised. Maybe it is the air pollution here? With all of the coal power plants here, the air is very dirty, I even get coal dust on my car.
I asked my friend, who is a chemical engineer that designs coal power plant scrubbers, what is all this black **** on my paint when I don't wash the car?
His response, "It's particulate matter from the coal power plants in the air that settles on your paint". O_o
Now when you said you didn't have the dark side on the left side of the filter, I am surprised. Maybe it is the air pollution here? With all of the coal power plants here, the air is very dirty, I even get coal dust on my car.
I asked my friend, who is a chemical engineer that designs coal power plant scrubbers, what is all this black **** on my paint when I don't wash the car?
His response, "It's particulate matter from the coal power plants in the air that settles on your paint". O_o
MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
Likes: 3
From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Let me rephrase my last post.
Devise a way to make the stock airbox a ram air type intake.
To describe briefly, use the stock airbox and snorkel gaskets, and build a box up front in the radiator/relay area, then cut a hole in the factory plastic to cram in air pressure from in front of the radiator.
Devise a way to make the stock airbox a ram air type intake.
To describe briefly, use the stock airbox and snorkel gaskets, and build a box up front in the radiator/relay area, then cut a hole in the factory plastic to cram in air pressure from in front of the radiator.
Simply put, I don't think it's worth it for a NA street motor.
Especially a tired one like mine.
A cold air- or more accurately, a "ambient air" intake- makes more sense to me.
A street car, driven sensibly, doesn't reach the sustained high(er) speeds to make the ram effect applicable.
IMO, at least.
Of more benefit to a NA engine would be a shorter, less convoluted intake tract to the throttle body. I'd like to try coming straight off the throttle body directly to the AFM with the airbox situated in the area where the wiper motor, charcoal canister and cruise actuator are, vented through the hood into the high pressure area at the base of the windshield.
This was the point of my experiments with the shorter intake tube...see if there was any noticeable increase in torque.
Can't say there was really but I wonder if the 90° bend it makes to the throttle body obscured any benefits of the shorter intake length.
I'm wondering if something like this might do the trick:
Especially a tired one like mine.
A cold air- or more accurately, a "ambient air" intake- makes more sense to me.
A street car, driven sensibly, doesn't reach the sustained high(er) speeds to make the ram effect applicable.
IMO, at least.
Of more benefit to a NA engine would be a shorter, less convoluted intake tract to the throttle body. I'd like to try coming straight off the throttle body directly to the AFM with the airbox situated in the area where the wiper motor, charcoal canister and cruise actuator are, vented through the hood into the high pressure area at the base of the windshield.
This was the point of my experiments with the shorter intake tube...see if there was any noticeable increase in torque.
Can't say there was really but I wonder if the 90° bend it makes to the throttle body obscured any benefits of the shorter intake length.
I'm wondering if something like this might do the trick:
Simply put, I don't think it's worth it for a NA street motor.
Especially a tired one like mine.
A cold air- or more accurately, a "ambient air" intake- makes more sense to me.
A street car, driven sensibly, doesn't reach the sustained high(er) speeds to make the ram effect applicable.
IMO, at least.
Of more benefit to a NA engine would be a shorter, less convoluted intake tract to the throttle body. I'd like to try coming straight off the throttle body directly to the AFM with the airbox situated in the area where the wiper motor, charcoal canister and cruise actuator are, vented through the hood into the high pressure area at the base of the windshield.
This was the point of my experiments with the shorter intake tube...see if there was any noticeable increase in torque.
Can't say there was really but I wonder if the 90° bend it makes to the throttle body obscured any benefits of the shorter intake length.
I'm wondering if something like this might do the trick:
Especially a tired one like mine.
A cold air- or more accurately, a "ambient air" intake- makes more sense to me.
A street car, driven sensibly, doesn't reach the sustained high(er) speeds to make the ram effect applicable.
IMO, at least.
Of more benefit to a NA engine would be a shorter, less convoluted intake tract to the throttle body. I'd like to try coming straight off the throttle body directly to the AFM with the airbox situated in the area where the wiper motor, charcoal canister and cruise actuator are, vented through the hood into the high pressure area at the base of the windshield.
This was the point of my experiments with the shorter intake tube...see if there was any noticeable increase in torque.
Can't say there was really but I wonder if the 90° bend it makes to the throttle body obscured any benefits of the shorter intake length.
I'm wondering if something like this might do the trick:
Yeah, that's exactly how I had mine setup.
Results on the butt dyno were inconclusive.
Meanwhile, the Parade of the Petty continues on.
Replaced the windshield washer nozzles with some from a Nissan.
Lower profile and two outlets per unit. Still need to tweak the aim a bit but they're otherwise a definite upgrade.
Redid the coolant recovery yet again, hope it's done now.
This arrangement is easily viewed and accessed and the mount is finally up to snuff.
The wandering hose drives me crazy, the location of the outlet port matches the stock orientation, something that's been wrong for me for quite a while.
After (literally) years of thinking about it, I finally got off my *** and redid the port.
Much better, I think...
Next up are a few interior issues.
Results on the butt dyno were inconclusive.
Meanwhile, the Parade of the Petty continues on.
Replaced the windshield washer nozzles with some from a Nissan.
Lower profile and two outlets per unit. Still need to tweak the aim a bit but they're otherwise a definite upgrade.
Redid the coolant recovery yet again, hope it's done now.
This arrangement is easily viewed and accessed and the mount is finally up to snuff.
The wandering hose drives me crazy, the location of the outlet port matches the stock orientation, something that's been wrong for me for quite a while.
After (literally) years of thinking about it, I finally got off my *** and redid the port.
Much better, I think...
Next up are a few interior issues.
