Sealing an oil pan w/ a baffle plate?
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Sealing an oil pan w/ a baffle plate?
Could this be done with only sealant, and no gaskets? I've searched and found that most people use two gaskets, one on each side of the baffle plate.
Right now my oil pan has only sealant, no gasket.(Hondabond I think?) It's leaking so I want to reseal it and toss a baffle plate on while it's apart.
Right now my oil pan has only sealant, no gasket.(Hondabond I think?) It's leaking so I want to reseal it and toss a baffle plate on while it's apart.
#3
some use two gaskets and sealant some use just gaskets with no sealant and some just use sealant. all of the above will work. i use gasket + dressing combo and havent had one thing leak on me
FYI. oem doesnt use sealant... and this is why brand new cars have leaky oil pans after 40k miles...
FYI. oem doesnt use sealant... and this is why brand new cars have leaky oil pans after 40k miles...
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 04-20-08 at 09:26 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
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Last time I had my pan off (welding in sensor bung) I sealed it back up with just RTV, works fine without gaskets even with the baffle plate. Just make sure that the surfaces are all clean and smooth.
#5
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A word of warning...DON'T reuse the stock bolts.
You'll need longer bolts (or studs) if you're going to try this double gasket + baffle.
The stock bolts are just too short for the increased thickness.
Personally, I've had bad luck with the Mazda gaskets.
-Ted
You'll need longer bolts (or studs) if you're going to try this double gasket + baffle.
The stock bolts are just too short for the increased thickness.
Personally, I've had bad luck with the Mazda gaskets.
-Ted
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The bolts are probably M6 or M8 right? I can get a variety of those sizes. Thanks for the replies!
The two-gasket method sounds like a motherf-cker to handle. I'll just try to use some sealant with slightly longer bolts. Does anyone know the stock bolt length?
The two-gasket method sounds like a motherf-cker to handle. I'll just try to use some sealant with slightly longer bolts. Does anyone know the stock bolt length?
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The bolts are M6.
Replace them with longer bolts, and use large flat washers on the heads to spread the clamping force.
Personally I always use a gasket on each side of the baffle with a light coat of sealant. None have leaked yet.
The oil pan is notoriously difficult to seal so I always use a gasket.
Replace them with longer bolts, and use large flat washers on the heads to spread the clamping force.
Personally I always use a gasket on each side of the baffle with a light coat of sealant. None have leaked yet.
The oil pan is notoriously difficult to seal so I always use a gasket.
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Last spring I went to the local Honda dealer and tried to buy some Hondabond, they told me they use Permatex Ultra Grey now and the Hondabond is no longer available. I don't know how true it is about the Hondabond not being available, but that's what I was told.
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Nice, I like using the copper high temp super sticky silicone. What's the deal with Hondabond? Some people swear by it like its better than the silicones offered at the store
#20
Do you feel lucky punk!!!
Me to. Here in PR we dont use oil pan gaskets, only grey silicone. Be sure to spread silicione around the bolts hole on the oil pan and on the baffle to avoid leaks.
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Well I broke an oil pan bolt taking it off. Fortunately it's one that is easy to get to.
It's on the driver's side of the center iron. My question, how much room do I have above the bolt before the water jacket?
I tried extracting it with no luck, so I am going to have to just drill the bolt completely out and use a heli-coil or other type of insert.
It's on the driver's side of the center iron. My question, how much room do I have above the bolt before the water jacket?
I tried extracting it with no luck, so I am going to have to just drill the bolt completely out and use a heli-coil or other type of insert.
#23
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+1 for The Right Stuff.
RTV is too easy to mess up with (involving torquing, curing, etc). The Right Stuff can be torqued immediately and in theory you can drive again right after installation.
Just don't use liquid gaskets for high-pressure applications like water pumps... Even The Right Stuff won't stop one from leaking, and you can contaminate you cooling system with bits of rubber...
RTV is too easy to mess up with (involving torquing, curing, etc). The Right Stuff can be torqued immediately and in theory you can drive again right after installation.
Just don't use liquid gaskets for high-pressure applications like water pumps... Even The Right Stuff won't stop one from leaking, and you can contaminate you cooling system with bits of rubber...
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