Sealing an oil pan w/ a baffle plate?
 

Could this be done with only sealant, and no gaskets? I've searched and found that most people use two gaskets, one on each side of the baffle plate.

Right now my oil pan has only sealant, no gasket.(Hondabond I think?) It's leaking so I want to reseal it and toss a baffle plate on while it's apart.

Should be fine. I'm selling a baffle and the banzai oil pan brace if you're interested? i installed it but found out i had a warpped oil pan.

some use two gaskets and sealant some use just gaskets with no sealant and some just use sealant. all of the above will work. i use gasket + dressing combo and havent had one thing leak on me

FYI. oem doesnt use sealant... and this is why brand new cars have leaky oil pans after 40k miles...

Last time I had my pan off (welding in sensor bung) I sealed it back up with just RTV, works fine without gaskets even with the baffle plate. Just make sure that the surfaces are all clean and smooth.

A word of warning...DON'T reuse the stock bolts.
You'll need longer bolts (or studs) if you're going to try this double gasket + baffle.
The stock bolts are just too short for the increased thickness.

Personally, I've had bad luck with the Mazda gaskets.


-Ted

When I first installed the baffle I used two gaskets and stock bolts, worked fine. Probably not ideal, but it worked for me.

I used copper silicone, and mine's is fine. I forgot if I had longer bolts or not

The bolts are probably M6 or M8 right? I can get a variety of those sizes. Thanks for the replies!

The two-gasket method sounds like a motherf-cker to handle. I'll just try to use some sealant with slightly longer bolts. Does anyone know the stock bolt length?

I have used Hondabond and no gasket w/ my baffle and sometimes it seals and sometimes it leaks :( Going to a new powdercoated (stiff) comp. pan with flat surface worked last time.

I am going to try Right Stuff sealant next and also have my eye on that Banzai pan brace.

The bolts are M6.

Replace them with longer bolts, and use large flat washers on the heads to spread the clamping force.

Personally I always use a gasket on each side of the baffle with a light coat of sealant. None have leaked yet.

The oil pan is notoriously difficult to seal so I always use a gasket.

We do not ever use oil pan gaskets. They are far too failure prone, a metal on metal mating with a high grade sealant, such as Permatex Ultra Grey, is best.

Permatex Ultra Grey is probably very similar to Hondabond, right?

Last spring I went to the local Honda dealer and tried to buy some Hondabond, they told me they use Permatex Ultra Grey now and the Hondabond is no longer available. I don't know how true it is about the Hondabond not being available, but that's what I was told.

Nice, I like using the copper high temp super sticky silicone. What's the deal with Hondabond? Some people swear by it like its better than the silicones offered at the store

just use any kind of rtv or the like with no gaskets. did this on my turbo FB and my TII and both worked flawlessly

Hondabond is great for very small gap fit ups like you will find in a Honda (or other precision parts).

Not as good for big gaps.

The right stuff gasket maker is great. Its all we use at work.

Pretty much any gasket goo will suck at sealing largeish gaps though.

I've used Permatex ultra-grey every time I put on my oil pan, and never had problems. The guy who built my engine did the same, and it lasted 30k miles (until the engine died....) with no problems at all.

Me to. Here in PR we dont use oil pan gaskets, only grey silicone. Be sure to spread silicione around the bolts hole on the oil pan and on the baffle to avoid leaks.

Well I broke an oil pan bolt taking it off. Fortunately it's one that is easy to get to.

It's on the driver's side of the center iron. My question, how much room do I have above the bolt before the water jacket?

I tried extracting it with no luck, so I am going to have to just drill the bolt completely out and use a heli-coil or other type of insert.

hondabond works fine to seal the oil pan

+1 for The Right Stuff.

RTV is too easy to mess up with (involving torquing, curing, etc). The Right Stuff can be torqued immediately and in theory you can drive again right after installation.

Just don't use liquid gaskets for high-pressure applications like water pumps... Even The Right Stuff won't stop one from leaking, and you can contaminate you cooling system with bits of rubber...