Removing oil lines without breaking them...
04-26-09, 10:07 PM
#1
Removing oil lines without breaking them...
how can u possibly remove the lines from the engine/Cooler without damaging them i found and old thread in the 2nd gen archive:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=oil+line
but since its archived i cant post anything on it...lol.
i saw that my lines are five my cooler is fine as well but it leaks where the oil line connects to the engine as well as where it connects to the oil cooler i wanted to remove them from another s4 but i saw that it was tricky, that is if i didnt want to damage them... any suggestions?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=oil+line
but since its archived i cant post anything on it...lol.
i saw that my lines are five my cooler is fine as well but it leaks where the oil line connects to the engine as well as where it connects to the oil cooler i wanted to remove them from another s4 but i saw that it was tricky, that is if i didnt want to damage them... any suggestions?
04-27-09, 08:33 AM
#5
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Take the Oil cooler lines loose from the block, unbolt oil cooler from body,
take two peices of thick styrefoam and put on either side, put foam and cooler in a vise, DO NOT CLAMP DOWN HARD, just enough to hold it a bit...
Do yourself a favor, make a sharpie line to line the hose back up with (the angle the hose leaves the cooler makes a diffrence when you try to reinstall cuz it gets hung on crap and with time, that causes chaffing and therefore a soft spot in the hose, then POP goes the oil cooler line...
Hold the cooler with one hand, Impact wrench in the other, have the impact on lightest setting, just hit it once and get it loose, (top one.) then do the side one.
Inlet / outlet.
Inspect hoses for any damage, cracking, and judge for yourself if they are usable or not. Then if i were you i would get new crush washers to go on the banjo bolts if you are going to reuse the lines.
Install reverse of this.
Has worked for me 4 times in a row now, no fitment issues, no leaks, no broken anything (not even any bent fins on the cooler itself...)
Good Luck!
take two peices of thick styrefoam and put on either side, put foam and cooler in a vise, DO NOT CLAMP DOWN HARD, just enough to hold it a bit...
Do yourself a favor, make a sharpie line to line the hose back up with (the angle the hose leaves the cooler makes a diffrence when you try to reinstall cuz it gets hung on crap and with time, that causes chaffing and therefore a soft spot in the hose, then POP goes the oil cooler line...
Hold the cooler with one hand, Impact wrench in the other, have the impact on lightest setting, just hit it once and get it loose, (top one.) then do the side one.
Inlet / outlet.
Inspect hoses for any damage, cracking, and judge for yourself if they are usable or not. Then if i were you i would get new crush washers to go on the banjo bolts if you are going to reuse the lines.
Install reverse of this.
Has worked for me 4 times in a row now, no fitment issues, no leaks, no broken anything (not even any bent fins on the cooler itself...)
Good Luck!
04-27-09, 09:22 AM
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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A lot of penetration oil, a wire brush to clean out the rust, and then a thin wrench to hold the fitting at the front cover.
The lines only get damaged when the front cover fitting locks in place due to age, so starting a few days earlier with the wire brush and penetration oil will help greatly.
Then again, you could always just get new lines made up first and not care about damaging the old ones. A hydraulic store can make you a new set for under $100.
The lines only get damaged when the front cover fitting locks in place due to age, so starting a few days earlier with the wire brush and penetration oil will help greatly.
Then again, you could always just get new lines made up first and not care about damaging the old ones. A hydraulic store can make you a new set for under $100.
04-28-09, 01:18 AM
#7
thanks Aaron Cake, ur the best! u helped on the other tread i started! yeah imma take them off, inspected them (if not broken after removal), if they are damaged im gonna take the cooler and lines to the "hoseman" a hydraulic store two cities away!
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04-28-09, 12:06 PM
#9
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new steal braided lines are better than the cloth ones. just get new ones. there not to expensive and they give you the peace of mind of knowing they wont leak. Did the same thing last year and couldnt get them off with out breaking them. good luck man.
04-30-09, 09:32 AM
#12
Engine, Not Motor
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No, not reverse thread. They are regular, standard, everyday hudraulic fittings. 
Yeah, I think the banjo bolts are 23MM. Best thing to use is an impact so you don't stress the cooler.
Yeah, I think the banjo bolts are 23MM. Best thing to use is an impact so you don't stress the cooler.
04-30-09, 11:17 AM
#13
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ya when i did this i ate oil from the cooler. remember just because it stops leaking doesnt mean its empty. after your done youll need to add around a quart of oil... maybe more. Before you start it up take the injector fuse out and cranck it untill you see oil pressure. this will help prime the oiling system.
05-14-09, 10:58 PM
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The hardest part for me was getting the banjo's off the oil cooler, as I did it with the cooler removed from the car and had to bench to clamp it to. A tip for anyone working on their oil cooler lines is have quality tools, otherwise you'll strip something and hate yourself lol.
05-15-09, 01:11 PM
#17
Corksport SS Oil Cooler lines are one of the best investments I've ever made in my car...and inexpensive compared to other SS lines.
If you don't have an impact wrench...a suggestion when using wrenches on the lines on the engine (not the cooler). Put a piece of plywood or something against your radiator so if you slip on the wrench, you don't put a hole in your radiator.
GG
If you don't have an impact wrench...a suggestion when using wrenches on the lines on the engine (not the cooler). Put a piece of plywood or something against your radiator so if you slip on the wrench, you don't put a hole in your radiator.
GG
05-19-09, 09:07 AM
#19
Engine, Not Motor
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You can get the front cover fitting at any hydraulic store. I forget what size it is but if you check the Archives you will find a topic that lists all necessary parts to make braided stainless oil cooler lines.
05-20-09, 08:20 PM
#21
Rotary Enthusiast
Mazdatrix has instructions on their web site.
The fitting adapters go on the engine and the 90 angle connectors goes onto the oil cooler.
I tried putting the fitting in the oil cooler thinking the same thing until I called mazdatrix. Those guys there are VERY helpful.
My stock line busted while i was driving. I pulled out of the garage and notice a long streak of oil on the ground. I got LUcKy.
The fitting adapters go on the engine and the 90 angle connectors goes onto the oil cooler.
I tried putting the fitting in the oil cooler thinking the same thing until I called mazdatrix. Those guys there are VERY helpful.
My stock line busted while i was driving. I pulled out of the garage and notice a long streak of oil on the ground. I got LUcKy.
05-20-09, 08:25 PM
#22
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A lot of penetration oil, a wire brush to clean out the rust, and then a thin wrench to hold the fitting at the front cover.
The lines only get damaged when the front cover fitting locks in place due to age, so starting a few days earlier with the wire brush and penetration oil will help greatly.
Then again, you could always just get new lines made up first and not care about damaging the old ones. A hydraulic store can make you a new set for under $100.
The lines only get damaged when the front cover fitting locks in place due to age, so starting a few days earlier with the wire brush and penetration oil will help greatly.
Then again, you could always just get new lines made up first and not care about damaging the old ones. A hydraulic store can make you a new set for under $100.
I think the best thing to do is buy/make some with braided stainless and -AN fittings.
It might be a little costly, but you'll never have to worry/replace.
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