cbrock

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I made a loop but I think I might have looped the wrong ones. First I've heard of people looping the small lines that go towards the middle and end of the rack. Then I've heard of people looping the pressure lines on the gear. I did the last one. I used some of my left over an lines and got the correct adapter fitting 10x1.25 to -6. This is what looped what used to be the old banjo fittings on the steering gear.

So we check for leaks but the steering is still fairly hard and it was harder in one direction than the other. I was like, ok whatever. I back the car out and let it warm up. I go to pull it back into the garage and when I turned the wheel I heard a pop and the steering got really easy to turn...almost like it had assist. So I pop the hood and there is oil all over the housing. It appears as if I blew out the dust cover and oil seal on the rear of the housing where the steering input is.

My question is.
A) Is the rack FUBAR or can I pound the seal back in? I'd still like to be able to have it hold oil B)What should I loop. It appears by looping the banjo fittings it creates a little too much pressure in the housing Like, can I loop one of the banjo fittings to the oil cooler line (which is plugged with a brass fitting right now).

Thanks.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

after sitting down and thinking about it, I've come up with this hypothesis. The loop worked. The problem was that I did not release any of the fluid from the rack. So the rack was totally full. Thus when I turned the wheel, it was basicly trying to stuff more fluid into one of the sides....POW oil seal blows out. I'm thinking now once I replace the oil seal on the housing and release a little more fluid, I'll be golden. Let me know what you think.

BlackRx7

cool thanks for the anticdote, I've been thinks of doing this but I am worried about the consequnces

akageals

I looped the small lines that are on the rack itself and blocked all the other holes. I have no problems and the steering is just a little harder than it was when I had a manual rack in the car.

GLHS

I doubt it.. When you cut the smaller lines by the oil pan, none leaked out?

How about when you pulled the other lines? None leaked out there also?

If any fluid leaked out, it will work fine and that is not the cause of your leak..

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

I never cut the lines by the oil pan. I still have my motor in and doing anything to those lines is damn near impossible. The only fluid that leaked out was what was in the pump, the cooler and the high pressure lines. So as far as I know the rack was still full.

GLHS

Its super easy to cut those lines under the pan, just use a hacksaw blade and wrap one end with duct tape, so you don't cut your hand and cut away.. takes about 10 minutes.

So you looped the lines closer to the steering box?

Please explain...

wpgrexx

you need to loop the lines that are on the rack so the fluid can flow through the rack. the three fittings on the gear can just be plugged. there may not be a lot of room, but i got my big hands in there just fine to do it, make sure you use good hoses to loop the lines, they get hot and pressurized and could rupture.

GLHS

also you want to make sure the gear box is full of fluid.

You may get locked steering, if those gears overheat and lock up.


When you cut those smaller lines, the fluid that comes out is enough.. don't try to get more out..

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so by the smaller lines, you are refering to the lines that hug the oil pan and go to the rack from the gear box? I was under the impression that you could loop either those small lines or the two banjo lines.

I'll probably try to remove those lines and insert the proper pipe thread to -AN adapter and use my line that is currently looping the pressure banjos.

Any ideas on how hard it is to service that rear oil seal and cover. I'm thinking push it all back in and tap the dust cover on with a hammer.

GLHS

No that is incorrect.. You have to connect the smaller lines..

Do not connect the larger lines, you don't need to.


Remove your fan shroud and that makes the cutting of the lines much easier.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

I was actually refering to the smaller lines. Before, I had looped the larger lines that run up to the pump. However, I only get to work on the car every other weekend or so. That being said, the lines are currently looped on the high pressure (banjo fittings) lines and that will soon be changed along with the rear oil seal and dust cover.

What I want to do, instead of trashing my lines is remove them completely from the car and insert -AN adapters into the rack and run my braided hose to the adapters.

When that is done the cooling loop will be plugged with the 3/8" NPT brass plug. The banjo lines will be plugged with short 12x1.25 mm bolts and the lines that ran the the rack will be removed and the holes on the steering gearbox will be plugged with the correct plug...once I figure out what size that is. Then all that will be looped is the middle of the rack to the fitting more towards the gear housing. It will all be an fittings and braided line and should be more than enough to hold the pressure from turning the wheel.

BlackRx7

damn someone needs to make a write up a the correct p/s to manual conversion

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

No ****. I've heard soooo many different ways to do this mod. Without proper documentation on how this rack works it's fairly hard to guess how to do it. So from what I've found

DO NOT LOOP THE BANJO FITTINGS

Once I get the correct fittings I'll provide a write up that uses -AN fittings and braided hose. Pictures will be supplied as well.

GLHS

You have a total of 5 hoses/lines. Plug the 3 large ones on the gear box, with quick steel and the old bolts. cut the smaller lines on the rack and connect them together. remove the smaller lines form the steering box and cut them about 1" long and plug the line with quick steel.

Done.


Oh and remove the pump and bracket and disconnect the silver box under the steering wheel.