g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know of any oil cooler lines that AREN'T banjo bolts? I've replaced the crush washers all over mine and made sure I changed everything correctly and it still bleeds like a stuck pig.

Any recommendations on what lines to use instead? Would standard ones from autozone fit?

I'm looking for something like this:
http://www.banzai-racing.com/product...oler_lines.htm

But not in the 200-250$ range...


Or is their possibly a simple fix for the oil cooler lines to stop them from leaking? Leak is coming from rear iron where the banjo bolt connects to the motor. I'm guessing this is the oil return to the cooler.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

an fittings are not cheap. I don't think you are going to be able to beat 200 bucks on the stainless oil cooler line kit.

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Racing Beat/Mazdatrix has/had the AN w/ss lines also.
-a

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Well what size are the fittings in the block? i.e. thread pitch and depth.

Couldn't I just make my own if I had all fittings and hoses from a plumbing shop?

Surely a plumbing shop would have all the sizes I would need and wouldn't cost me more than 40$ for all the fittings I need.

HAILERS

There used to be a Archieve thread on how to make your own. You buy the line from someone like SummitRacing blah, blah etc. Piece of cake.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/custom-oil-cooler-line-partlist-270545/

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

2/3 of the cost in that post is the SS lines. Are SS lines absolutely necessary?

All I can see here that would make it different from say nylon tubing is that it has a fancy look to it and the temperature it can handle... Nylon tubing can actually take more pressure.

What temperature does the oil in the motor get up to? The Nylon is rated up to 200 and the SS line is up to 300.

Ace hardware has a 100ft spool of the nylon tubing for 33$...

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Oil temps can easily pass 200F in our engines.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

http://mazdatrix.com/b6.htm

mazdatrix has all the adapters and stuff, you can get the lines made from there.


it's probably your hoses themselves that are leaking. you really should get them replaced soon, or they might burst and take your engine with them.

Black91n/a

ANY, I say again, ANY oil cooler line will still have some crush washers. Those are straight threads, not pipe threads, so a threaded adapter needs a washer under it to seal. If you do a metric to AN fitting, then AN from there on or some such arrangement, you'll be reducing the amount of crush washers, but you'll never eliminate them completely.

JxT

iTrader: (7)

Did you replace the banjo bolts too or just the crush washers? I remember my line kept leaking and I kept replacing the washers but then decided to replace the banjo bolt finally and my leaks stopped.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the crush washers are leaking. But since I'm undoing it, I'm just going to do something else with it so I don't have to replace it further down the road.

And if I go to metric to AN fittings, even if i do still have to have a washer, i don't have to use mazdas goofy application specific washers that get old and leak after 3 years.

FrankV702

iTrader: (14)

I can make you some, but they're not gonna be cheap. The parts alone are expensive. It'd be cheaper then $200 but not by to much.. :/ Try to make them yourself.. It'll probably cost you about $130-$140 in materials and about 2 hours of time.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

You can get the banjo crush washers here. For a 5 pack AN10s are about $7.50. That's less than $2 for one of the oil cooler drain plug aluminum washers from the dealer.

I've been fighting an oil cooler leak and did a lot of research. It seems pretty common for people to replace their crush washers with Earl's Stat-O-Seals. Here's a source for them.

Another option apparently popular in Europe are Dowty seals. I saw that Aaron used them on his fuel pump project.

You can (and should if you are reusing them) also anneal the copper washers before installing them. When the metal gets worked it gets hard. Annealing softens them up. To anneal you just heat them with a torch until they glow dull red then drop them in a bucket of water (I've also seen where they say to let them cool slowly). Ours came out nice and soft. I dont recommend trying to anneal aluminum ones though. Aluminum doesnt glow red, it just liquefies. Ask me how I know!

Oh, and the leak? Turns out the kid, trying to use an old, unannealed aluminum washer to stop the cooler's drain plug from leaking, applied what he'd learned in physics about leverage. The result was splitting the drain plug fitting.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I've been looking in to building my own, but the total cost keeps coming toward 150$-200$ depending on the quality of materials used...

I'll give those Earl's seals and Dowty seals a try when I have some extra bread laying around. Maybe its just these crappy mazda washers that are giving me issues. I'm going to do some research on more copper washers and see what I can come up with.

drifter_xs

upgrade to A/N fittings and steel braid lines or call BAKER in signal hill, california

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

Another tip I found repeated quite frequently is to use a sanding block with some wet/dry sandpaper and oil and clean all the mating surfaces; both sides of the washers, the banjo, cooler bung, etc.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I ordered some of the Dowty washers and I'm going to do that when I go to change them. Spray everything with degreaser and make sure its as clean as possible before re-assembly.

sim_rx3

definetly do this.



but also remember if your tighting up the bolts to the point where its distoring the washer or mating surface of the fitting from the banjo bolt, then its to tight.

there are torque values for these in the FSM that i am aware of and should be adhered too.