SlayerwithaFC3S

ok i know a 80 shot is ok for a NA but what would it take to get bigger shots of nitrous maybe 200 or so. im just looking for info because i dont wanna turbo or supercharge it since both are gonna be in use when driving all the time. nitrous i think is better because ill have it when i need it:p

V8what?!

You'll at least need to start out with a bigger fuel pump and do a wet shot if you're going up to a 200 shot.

Roy James

Talk to Scathart (forgive me if mis-spelled). All that man does is "nitrous nitrous nitrous" He'll design you a kit for realitivly cheap.

BrianVFR

How does one find this fellow??

No7Yet

In order to build a reliable nitrous rotary motor, the very biggest issue is exhaust port heat buildup. You'll need to port your exhaust ports and tune very carefully. If boinger nitrous setup tips apply, you'll also want the strongest apex seals that you can run, with lower compression than the stock 9.4:1 or 9.7:1. Wet shots are for n00bs - real nitrous racers use dry shots with aftermarket fuel control. Wet shots as they're usually implemented put too much strain on the stock fuel system, either dropping rail pressures too much or not jetting enough fuel at high RPM.

Brandon

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

This should prove useful.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=nitrous

scathcart

I find that for under 125 hp, the stock compression will handle it.
For shots that big, you start to have to worry about playing with the timing. A retard unit should be run on the leading and the trailings.

Wet nitrous for n00bs.... Real racers actually run wet systems, implemented using dual stage direct port and progressive control.

Dry nitrous puts more strain on the stock fuel system than wet, since it adds fuel through the stock injectors, which are already pretty over-worked.
Whether the fuel gets added via a fogger nozzle, or the injectors, the strain on the fuel system is the same. Whether you take you fuel cc's out of the rails via a hardline, or out via the injectors, the fuel volume requirement is still the same.
Fact: you can drop rail pressures with a dry system.

The only real benefit to dry is that you can tune the fuel side electronically. However, I never recommend it on an FC... our fueling system sucks!

Honestly brandon.... what is your source for these fallacies on wet vs. dry?

FC3SPORT

I have a Street Ported 88 Na. Where is it safe, in terms of hp, to go with the stock drivetrain? How much would say a 100 shot system cost? Not including a fuel pump. I'm assuming the T2 pump will work fine?

poor college student

i was gonna say do a search for scathcart's nitrous thread, but he's already replied... good stuff scath

No7Yet

Reread the original post - he's talking about a 200 shot. At that level, 9.4:1 compression will not cut it, and 9.7:1 will be even worse when that mixture is being compressed at 7500 RPM. Timing is most certainly an issue, I agree.

Quote:

Wet nitrous for n00bs.... Real racers actually run wet systems, implemented using dual stage direct port and progressive control.

Dry nitrous puts more strain on the stock fuel system than wet, since it adds fuel through the stock injectors, which are already pretty over-worked.
Whether the fuel gets added via a fogger nozzle, or the injectors, the strain on the fuel system is the same. Whether you take you fuel cc's out of the rails via a hardline, or out via the injectors, the fuel volume requirement is still the same.
Fact: you can drop rail pressures with a dry system.

The only real benefit to dry is that you can tune the fuel side electronically. However, I never recommend it on an FC... our fueling system sucks!

Again, reread what was said. "Real nitrous racers use dry shots with aftermarket fuel control". The stock fueling system is ****-poor. The stock FPR is way too small, and does/can not compensate for any additional draws. Yes, you can drop rail pressures with a dry system, but "aftermarket fuel control" tends to include things like FPRs. The fact is, fuel jets are a very crude method of adding fuel, and their tuning is very much guesswork. They can't compensate for load or engine speed or VE like just about any other method can.

Quote:

Honestly brandon.... what is your source for these fallacies on wet vs. dry?

I've come to these conclusions after speaking at length with V8 tuners (Mustangs, mostly) and reading what I can on the subject, and I stand by everything I've said.

Brandon