If either the pump or filter was bad it wouldn't be flooding, would it?
Sure, compression can "just drop out" but that wouldn't cause a voltage spike.

Look, there are a million things that can prevent a car from starting but only a few that include the tach behaviour you initially described (just to be clear...the tach needle jumped to 6k but the motor didn't actually rev, right?), so you can ignore everything that is not directly electrical/electronic (i.e., wiring or electronic components).

That means that the T-rex sitting on the roof is NOT the reason the car won't start...you can deal with him later.

 

Thats a good comparison. guess i have to wait till my next pay check on friday. could im proper grounding cause a voltage spike?

 

WOAH MAN!!! 30 sec MAX on a starter... Let her cool down for a few minutes... Then give her another 30 sec... That's thirty seconds MAXIMUM... Try for less.

I notice your tach doesn't bounce when you crank.
You sure you got decent spark?

Observe:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9pAA5PiGEU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyc7C-stHl8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuGsk3lmMEQ

Notice how all the tach needles bounce on cranking.

 

I recommended he disconnect the trailing coil since it's not necessary to get the car started especially since he's having problems getting the car to start in addition to having possible electrical problems. By disconnecting the trailing it just helps to reduce the number of components by one.

 

Yeah when I reconnected the trailing the tach responded

 

^

Do you have access to a spare ECU?
Are there cheap junkyards in your area that you can scavenge an ECU from?

Anyone live close by that can help a brother out?

Also, have you had your alternator tested regarding the voltage spike that clokker mentioned?

Once you've had your alternator tested, check your PM box.

 

No I haven't tested my alternator because no one had suggested it

 

I suggest you check the alternator.
Most chain auto parts stores will do it for free.
Just unbolt it and bring it to 'em.

There, now you've been told.

It's possible the alt was responsible for the initial spike but I don't believe that's your main problem now.
A car will run for quite a while with no alternator and should at least start and run for longer than yours will...

 

Did anyone ever get you a spare AFM?

 

I will get the alternator checked on Friday. Also yes I got another afm

 

well what else is there i can check in the mean time till friday?

 

Did you use the ohm meter to check the newer AFM like you did the previous one? If not, that would be a judicious use of your time.

 

I did but I can't seem to get a reading off the first pin. The other ones I get normal readings though

 

Are you referring to "Fc" ? If you have the jumper wire in the Circuit Opening relay then pull that and try the reading once more.

 

No one mentioned anything about bad grounding. Could bad grounding be a cause of the car not running?

 

Typically, bad grounding causes the 3800 RPM stumble... But now that you mention it, I worked on a White 1988 GTU that had an intermittent No-Start along with random hesitation...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/need-some-help-n-engine-bogs-down-cuts-out-832666/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/questions-re-3800-rpm-stumble-hesitation-grounding-problems-844960/

Though it only had the fail to start once or twice, I suppose a severe enough case of improper grounding would cause drivability problems enough that it wouldn't start.

It ended up being the same ground that causes the 3800 RPM stumble.
Soldered the crimped on connector, cleaned the engine block ground, and used dielectric grease, problem disappeared.

Perhaps look into the instructions for solving the 3800 RPM stumble.

 

another thing while im removing the alternator to get it checked tomorrow, could the injectors be bad? I know im kinda just throwing things out there, but it's been too long and i need my car

 

alternators out

 

quick question, can i use this to test the compression in the car?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=487835_0_0_

 

Yes, just hold the button down so it releases pressure as you spin it over. Bumps around 100psi are good, anything less than 85 is in need of a rebuild. 1 solid 100 psi and 2 lower bumps indicate a wiped or stuck apex seal (or 3 low bumps ) and 2 solid bumps and 1 low bump indicates a bad side seal.

I think the one I bought from harbor freight was cheaper than that, and works great.

 

When you were checking the voltage of the Water thermosensor as an example, if you were to turn on the headlights and it increases the voltage reading of the sensor then that would be indicative of a grounding issue within the wiring system.

 

okay so say i have a wiped or stuck apex seal does that mean a rebuild as well?

 

You could say that. A stuck apex can be unstuck at times while a damaged one would eventually require a rebuild.

 

$10 says your engine internals are just fine.

After you get the alt and ECU back in and the car starts, I'd change the oil/filter pretty quickly as it's probably got quite a bit of gas in it now.

 

hope your right clokker, lol