i need to do an oil change anyways, that was gonna happen the weekend the car stopped running =(

 

Alternator tested good

 

Did you try to get a good reading off of the pin from the AFM you spoke of which you had trouble with after removing the jumper from the Circuit Opening relay.

 

The compression results are as follows:

Front rotor is sitting at 110 with three solid bumps no stumbling

Rear rotor is sitting at 95 with three solid bumps no stumbling

I know the 95 is a little low is it common for the rear rotor to show lower compression than the front?

 

thats a good bit of compression difference, but given you using the poor mans method I wouldnt worry about it. It still has enough compression to start and run.

 

poor mans method? is using a compression tool from a piston compression checker the poor mans method?

 

Yes, it is...Mazda makes a special compression checker just so rotorheads can be depressed (and poor).

If it eases your fears, my NA has had lower compression (@85) for the last four years/55,000 miles...always starts, runs fine.

 

well i know that the compression of 110 in the front is decent and the 95 in the rear is okay too, so now im still stuck on the the hell is causing the car to not start. well tomorrow im going to return the tester and get a fuel pressure tester

 

What about the new (to you) ECU?

 

gotta find one, lol. i have someone who's already offering to send me one but i got hit with that $255 electric bill that i had to pay today or they shut off power and that left me with $40 bucks for 2 weeks.....super fun

 

Ah, it's Ramen-dan.

 

Wish I could afford ramen, lol. Gas comes before cheap noodles

well gas to my aunts car when she takes me to work

 

can I use this to test fuel pressure? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=487843_0_0_

 

Oh god no. That piece of plastic is only "rated" to 10 psi..... your fuel will ideally be flowing at 3-4 times that pressure.

something like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=721680_0_0_

 

LMAO thought i would ask, lol.

While i have someone on here, is there a possibility a vacuum leak may keep the car from turning on and staying on?

 

Yes, absolutely that is a possibility, but not for you I think. If that were the case you would be able to keep the car running with some love on the gas pedal. Unless there was a HUGE gaping hole in the intake system somewhere, like the intake duct not being attached to the TB at all. You would probably have noticed that if it were the case though.

 

yeah i would have, lol. Damn i'm really running out of things that could be wrong

 

It's the bloody ECU.

 

lol, i hope so. but what would cause it to go bad if the alternator is good?

 

It's a twenty year old computer that spent it's life in the footwell of a car.

Go ahead, tell me you're typing on a 386....

 

tandy

 

OMG I died just now, HAHA.

when I get another ecu should I have mine sent out for upgrade when i gather the money? whenever that would be.

Also for mods since you guys asked before i never got around to answering. I have a full exhaust and an intake which i would prefer to have the stock box on

 

No sense getting an upgraded ECU for a s4 N/A. Save your money and replace the entire electrical system.

 

haha just waiting for someone to say something. so I should replace all wires and such?

 

If your original ECU has failed components, the upgrade people aren't gonna wanna touch it.
All they do is resocket a chip and the cost of troubleshooting and repairing a motherboard would far exceed the cost of a good replacement.

Prior to this last little ah, mishap, had all the electric stuff been working?
If so, I wouldn't touch the wiring, it's not a casual job.